BrianH

Also - the fuses have changed a few times over the life of these vehicles, so yours might be fuse 27. Really hard to guess without knowing what year of vehicle your asking about.

From what I remember on the mk1 when i had that problem, it knocked out some other functions - the instrument cluster being one of them, it would reset every time you started the car (so trip counter was reset every time you took the key out) I think it may effect other functions as well, so best to put it back in when your driving it at least. Broken wires in the door gaiters are common on these, so you'd be well advised to check when you have the chance to do so as you don't want a wire managing to short out to something.

You might want to have a look on the info on the other forum - sadly this one has a few issues, and isn't visited much anymore. https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-common-faults-and-problems/ford-galaxy-mk2-fuse-information-circuit-and-rating/ i think its fuse 32 you most likely want, though fuse 2 is also indicated to do with the doors as well. But if yours is a later mk2 (after 2006) it may be different. Door wires is the first place to start looking though as you already suspect. Be careful when putting the fuse back in - the car might try to lock itself, so keep the keys to hand just in case (And I wouldn't leave them in the car if you don't have someone in the car able to open the doors just in case).

I'd have a look under the seat, as you may find the loom already there (typically I've found Ford fit the loom but just leave the bits not needed unplugged). This won't solve missing the controls, unless they are on the seats themselves. But I've fitted eletric adjuster seats to a car that didn't have them previously and they worked straight away with no further effort needed (did have the height adjustment as electric, but the forward/back and tilt was manual originally)

Its very broken - the fact you tried to get that to post 3 times before it went through sadly shows how broken it is. If you also look on the main page, a reply to a post doesn't bring the post to the top anymore, so you can only see a new post from the main screen and only if its the most recent new post as well. Unless its just me? But you must have noticed the new posts here by now are few and far between. Yes theres loads of useful info here, and it would be a shame to lose it, but its getting harder to actually find it now.

I'm not convinced you will even see this as this forum is very broken, but if you do, then a suitable resistor bridging the clock sping output would prove if the clockspring is the culprit. It should switch the light off once you reset the code with vcds and stay off. People have been known to "fix" this fault that way before, not sure offhand what resistance is needed. The clock springs are different depending on spec level - buttons on the wheel. Bear in mind its checking for the correct resistance - and given your moving the wheel and it goes off, that would say its the clockspring as thats the only bit that really does any movement (every time you twist the wheel of course). Only way you can rule the airbag out other than that, is to swap the bag. I had one upto about a year ago from the mk1 I scrapped (one of the bits that never sold). Unfortunatly you can't send them to anyone as noone will deliver them. It ended up left outside (its still there actually) but its probabbly useless by now. If you are struggling still and can't get an answer here, try www.fordmpv.com as most folk from here are over there now.

Most likely some sort of turbo issue - split hose, sticky vanes etc. If you have vcds scan for fault codes, if any come up try searching for previous issues. Sadly this forum is broken and dying - posts don't post properly etc. You might have more luck at https://www.fordmpv.com

Your probabbly looking around that to get one supplied and fittted, If your interested in prices, goto www.eurocarparts.com and you can look at the cost of the parts based on your reg number. Mine is showing £197 for the parts only (you want a 3 piece kit not the 2 piece one offered) using the discount code at the top of the page.

Test wise - easiest test is to put your foot down on the brake and release the clutch - a working clutch should cause the car to stall, one thats slipping will probabbly let it carry on. Might also be that the slave cylinder isn't releasing properly for some reason and is leaving the clutch partially disengaged.

Sounds to me like the clutch has reached the end of its life - either its worn the friction plate out, or the slave cylinder has failed and let the fluid out over the clutch. I'd suspect the first option is the likely cause. Any signs of anything leaking from the car? (you might need the undertray off to see anything)

A dodgy CV joint on the driveshaft would be where i'd start looking

You'd usually expect issues with the wiring in the door post area to be the cause, pull the gaiter apart and see if you have broken wires there?

Don't know about the route, but a lack of flow would suggest either the fan isn't running at the speed your telling it to, or more likely the pollen filter located in the scuttle area is blocked. I'd be inclined to do a scan with VCDS for the heater system, it might be able to shed a bit of light on whats going on, I think the flaps are all electrically operated, never seen the dual AC setup, but would guess its possible either a linkage has come off, or a motor has got stuck. The righthand set of buttons relate to the rear heater on the single zone setup, can you hear the rear fan speeding up as you increase the speed?

It sounds like you don't have the handle reinstalled correctly - its easy to install once the lock barrel is sorted, as you can turn the paddle around which makes installing it much easier (without having to strip the rest of the door apart). Its possible you've bent the operating bit, but best bet is to fix the paddle bits, then see if you can get it sorted from there, its possible to remove and reinstall the handle when its working correctly without removing the rest of the lock, but if the operating bit doesn't turn its much more tricky (which will be the case if its broken).

You might get an answer on the other forum - this one is rather deserted now (not helped by the software having a few issues causing posts to appear not to post or be updated). most of the posters still active have moved over there now - https://www.fordmpv.com/smf2/

It would be wise to check it isn't a split pipe first - there is a hard plastic pipe that goes between the manifold and servo, this can (and does) split at the ends due to the design of it. There might also be a feed to the heater controls (my mk1 had this, think its only present on the models with the manual dials rather than the button controls), check that hasn't come loose before condemning the servo. The servo on my mk1 did start to hiss (noticable as it stopped when you put your foot onto the brake slightly) and was the actual seal. I never got round to fixing it as couldn't find a matching servo based on the part number at the time and ended up scrapping it due to engine issues anyway.

The way it should work is to push the wheel up off the plug and then drop the plug through the centre of the wheel. You might find a trolley jack under the wheel to support it might help to remove it (mine was stuck in place and had to be prised out when I removed it). Alternatively since the wheel will move about, get underneath and use a long extension bar to get a socket on to the bolts (13mm I think from memory, and only two of them) and just undo the whole winch mechanism with the wheel still attached. The general fix for the mk2 is to find one from a mk1 and fit that instead, as the internal components are better (metal gears rather than plastic I think).

Good to know you sorted it, I think the forum has become somewhat deserted due to it not really working fully (posting replies can be a bit more of a challenge than it should be). Most of the same faces have gone over to the other site if your still having problems and getting no answer here.

Almost certainly yes, Would suspect that either you have the usual broken wires problem in a door somewhere (including the tailgate) or a dodgy central locking motor causing issues. It might help to unplug the doors (the plug that goes into the door pillar will rotate to allow removal) and see if that reduces your battery drain to try and locate the fault. Though probabbly a good idea to go round all the doors and repair any broken wires.

Most likely you want a new brake pedal switch, located on the brake pedal. But its also possible its down to broken wires in the boot gaiter (the rubber boot on the righthand side contains all the electrics and these do snap/break as they get old)

I would suspect that the ABS sensor is the source of your woes. But can't guarantee anything on that front. First port of call is to find out whats causing the abs light to come on (my guess would be one of the wheel sensors, but you need to know which one) and fix that (might be a sensor, not sure how the ones on the mk3 work if theres a reluctor ring involved or if its part of the hub). First port of call is diagnostics to find the exact error, Forscan might do that (It can speak to Ford PATS on the mk2 as i've used it for that, only needs the matching lead, I found one for less that £20) a generic obd reader won't do it. Forscan is free, you can download it from the website https://forscan.org/ There is also lots of info and a forum there, so you should be able to find if that will do it before buying a lead (and buying a lead will be less than a diagnostic check at a garage is likley to be)

Might help to tell us what brand your using? How is the slave cylinder not possible its taking lots of pressure to operate and knackering the master cylinder in the process?

You obviously have a leak somewhere, its just a case of finding it. Given you have put the radweld in already it may have worked for once, but your best bet if it comes back is to take the undertray off, then see if you can see any signs of leaking under there. Some clue what year/model you've got will help - but given its probabbly either a mk1 or mk2 its likely to be either a corroded radiator, thermostat housing, fan switch holder (as its plastic and can crack) or the heater matrix. You'd be likely to smell the heater matrix and notice it misting the screen up. Really wouldn't recommend radweld - it rarely works, and is likely to block stuff up. Your more likely to see the leak when the cooling system is under pressure - either when the engine is hot, or with a pressure tester.

If it follows the injector, that suggests to me its the injector. If they won't swap it out at this point your best bet might be to say put it on injector 3/4 and see if it follows, if it does follow that should prove the issue is with the injector rather than the harness itself (as it would still be following it). This should also prove that the harness is ok if the errors disappear from injectors 1/2 after doing so.

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