BrianH

Try some wd40 in the boot lock (leave it overnight) and try again with the key, might be more sucessful with the battery disconnected to do this. If you have the battery connected try operating the door lock via the inside handle instead - if this works it may be enough to release the boot so you can get a look inside the gaiter there.

Fuse 19 is the one for my mk1 (late 97) model. I'd try flooding the bootlock with some wd40 as a first mesaure to free it up. Assuming the key you have is the right one that is as you've never used it it may be a lock thats been changed! Sounds to me like the wiring in the gaiters would be suspect to be the cause of your issues - if you aren't confident in fixing it yourself (info on that in the faq section) then first step would be to pull back the gaiter (start with the drivers door, then the boot) and at least seperate the wires from each other (put some tape over the bare bits) - then replace the fuse if its blown and try again. providing you can work logically and tackle one wire at a time its not too bad a job to do.

If its on a straight bit of the pipe there is a splice kit available you can use to fix the dodgy section > See http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Splice-Lok-1-2-3-8-5-16-Metal-Pipe-Repair-compression-kit-SAE-and-Metric-sizes-/191545611398?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c99021486for an example. Its not cheap though. I've not used it (different car, and the hole i had was on a bend so would have needed two and a replacement piece of pipe), but my experience of aircon repairs is they are never quite as simple as you expect. Factor in new o-rings for anything you disturb if you want to try and avoid further issues when you come to regas it as well.

You don't need to take the card off to see it - the bit holding the control prises up at one end (bottom end from looking at mine) and then the whole plate with it and the window control can be slid out. I can't see how you've got the cables out of the control without breaking something though having taken mine off so can't advise which one to put where, would suggest you try putting one in first and moving the control about to see if its the right combination, not sure if you can manipluate the end of the cable to see if you can identify which one does which movement? Can't really suggest a lot else here, and searching both here and the other forum doesn't suggest anything helpful either.

I've used http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/and would say the same about them really. First thing you need to do if going down that route is find the part number - theres some diagrams available here > http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford that will tell you which part numbers there are, hopefully only one option. Alternatively drop them a message with the reg/vin and they should be able to tell you.

Most of them are supposed to be filled for life, though not all. In theory it shouldn't degrade, but in practice it does. But yes you have the general idea, that applies to most auto boxes anyway its not just on these. just the gearbox will have a harder life than most others do due to the type of vehicle.

I'd guess its a mk3 rather than an earlier version of the galaxy given the mk2 would be at least 9 years old now. Have a look at the parts breakdown here http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_unit&s_id_grp=1237511&s_id_model=118 Once you have a part number for a suspected part you can then look it up to find a price for it, can't suggest a lot for £200 though if labour has been factored into that it may be something fairly minor.

Sorry for the confusion. I need to edit the title. Its defiitely a 2010 model. Ignore the vcds stuff then it won't work hence why i asked!. Still looks like you have the issue identified as being the fluid though. Could someone move this to the mk3 forum?

I've got the autoleads one running both of my jvc kd-db711 units in different vehicles (Galaxy and mondeo) and have had them in at least 4 different vehicles now. Work fine with mine, you have to feed it with 12v which i do from the powered antenna of the radio (when its new it comes with the appropiate bit to push into the connector on back of the stereo). The stick on ones are frankly a pain - the proper ones supplied with the units are fine provided you put them in the right place (higher the better i found). However you can't swap them to a different vehicle and i've never seen any better performance from them than the splitter (which is easier to install). I had one of the multi signal external ones, this gave a slight improvement over the stick on one, but not enough to make it worthwhile (particually on the Galaxy as you've got to make new holes for it). What model Galaxy are you fitting it to and whats currently fitted?

Check that one of the fuses hasn't blown - it sounds like its not receiving the +12v switched feed so your switching it on with only the battery so it will say 1 hr to show its going to shut off after 1 hour to stop you running the battery flat. it could also be a bad connection on back of the unit.

The water is obviously going somewhere, given that you don't mention it leaking any water that you can see i wonder if its a sign the head gasket has failed. You might get better luck in the mk3 area though as yours is a mk3 not a mk2. Try posting under having problems there if your still having problems with it, this section of the forum doesn't get many visitors unfortunately.

I'd leave it for a bit to let it fully finish circulating, if your still not 100% happy repeat whats been done already it should improve it (bear in mind the earlier comment from Chris - the longer its left not right, the more damage you risk doing). Alot of it will depend on the type of driving you do though. Lots of stop/start driving round town will kill it quicker than regular motorway driving. If yours is a 2010 model though its a mk3, this post is in the mk2 forum which isn't the same thing (your other post is in the mk3 forum, the one with the engine malfunction message, and you've referred to 2010 as well so I'm not sure!) if you mean its showing p2010 as the fault code then I don't know what that means, it appears to translate to the following which doesn't mean anything to me? P2010 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit High Bank 1 Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p2010.html#ixzz3ZwPzzzZR If its a 2003 model though (as you suggest in the title) vcds will probabbly be far more helpful since its really a vw in disguise your dealing with. (the cable for it can be had off ebay for relatively little, and the lite version will do what your likly to require, once you've found the code from that you can look it up on here and may find yourself an answer). it will also speak to the gearbox in the case of the auto unit which may well be the source of your error code/light anyway.

Thanks Brian. Confused as to how it all works? Im guessing its not like oil where its just one pot then? How does the old fluid get stuck in there? Sounds like you might be right. Mechanics told me they only swapped out 2.5 litres when they were expecting 6ltr. So is it possible they left the rest in there? How is segmented and how does it ever mix? confused. It's caught in the torque converter. The drain will allow you to drain the fluid in the rest of the box. But the only way out of the converter is in the middle of it. It's a donut shaped ring so anything inside it doesn't come out. Hence repeated attempts to drain with driving in between to circulate the fluid.

If i remember correctly from mine the 6000 has a cd button at the top somewhere. only other things i can recall is theres a couple of plugs behind the unit (one directly in the unit and another on a short lead at the end of it). AFAIK the head unit feeds power to the cd changer i don't believe any other power is supplied to it. If i get chance will pull the 6000 i've got out and have a look at it. Might help to post some photos of the connections on the changer itself

It may be a sign that you've improved the fluid overall, but still got it in a less than optimum condition due to some of the old fluid being in there, Best bet is leave it to circulate through the box and perform the prodcedure again if its still a problem. Don't know on your other post, but since you've placed it in the MK3 forum rather than the mk2 that might be why you've not had anything helpful? (the mk3 being a totally different vehicle!) Yours being a 2003 one will be a mk2 If you want diagnostics on the box to find out whats happening then a vcds cable and vcds lite will do the job though, and can be obtained for relatively little off ebay (vcds lite is free), will also do the scan of the engine codes for you.

When I did mine we found an engine hoist was needed though this was on a mk1 petrol version as there just wasn't any way of supporting the engine otherwise. It was easier none the less than the mk2 mondeo i had to replace one on was.

Theres a bit of info here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/5899-autobox-oil-change/&do=findComment&comment=40671

check the fluid - if you goto the technical section rather than this one where you've posted theres info in the faq about it.

when you go to refit it check for voltage between the two wires - if you can't see any then its time to check the wires if you haven't done.

Some varients and I don't know if yours is one of them without searching, have an issue with the water pump impeller (the fan shaped bit that pumps the water round the engine) becoming detached from the shaft of the pump, This under most circumstances can be tested by checking for a flow coming from the small pipe that goes into the expansion tank (should have a constant flow i think when the engine is running with the pump working). Theres definitely been posts on here about it. Check for the other signs of water leakage - if you can see white spots in the oil theres a fairly good chance the head/gasket has blown somewhere, you might be lucky enough to get away with it though if not. If the engine was running and not throwing out clouds of white smoke/steam you may be ok provided you find the cause.

try this http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25585-mk2-central-locking-and-immobiliser-manual-pages/?hl=%2Bremote+%2Bprogramming Don;t think theres much difference except the key sequence (press lock, hold lock, press unlock 3 times then release i'd read that to say) but check the led on the door does whats expected at each point. Factory tint wouldn't make any difference, the fob you describe isn't the infra red type anyway so it won't matter.

Don't know but it would be unusual to only have the one side heated. The Galaxy is known to have issues with the wires in the door gaiters breaking so it might be worth having a look there.

I'd find it doubtful that you'd have the infra red key on a car of that age i'd suspect its going to be the radio type key personally. So those might not be the right instructions you have there (the bit about pointing it at the rear view mirror suggests its for the infra red type). Can you see a sender on the key (led bulb that is at the front end?) Do you get the led on the door lighting up as the instructions above describe? Tinted windows might have an effect? how tinted are they? Maybe open the window first before you try to rule them out?

Im unsure of the capacity as i've seen it fill to over 50l sometimes, but stop around 40 at others (was brought as a non-runner already converted previously). Having rechecked recently though i seem to get over 200 miles to a tank now though need to run completely empty to tell for sure (clutch has been changed since the last time i checked accurately how far i could get and suspect i'd been losing some miles due to it slipping anyway)

At least your not asking about fitting a wastegate on a TDI though (unlike one of the posts in another section of this forum)