BrianH

Figures it would be as its the part given the most wear (every time the wheel is moved of course). Just worth confirming as a few other things can cause it to come up as well.

Don't know for sure, but would expect so. There only seems 2 options for the mk1 from the earlier link which appear to be quite different in appearance (i would assume the seperate horn switches are the later mk1 style, but don't know for sure). Have you verified its actually the drivers airbag showing the fault? You will need to be able to reset it as well so if you haven't got the scanner to talk to it you may want to get a vcds lead sorted out?

This post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/26795-strut-bearings-can-they-be-changed-in-situ/?hl=rubbersuggests its possible to change the rubber mount without removing the strut. I'd suspect unless you can get the top nut undone (which i'd find doubtful given the state they appear to get in) that you would end up replacing the shock absorber anyway so would have to separate the bottom end.

and a new one will give you less hassle - if your trying a used one i'd suggest you connect it up before installing it to try and ensure it works ok (the first one i got didn't, i managed a couple of weeks later to find a new one on ebay which has been fine since)

If you want the part number still pm me your vin or reg and I'll look it up on tis. Otherwise if you look at the link below theres two options - looks to depend on the type of horn push you have (mine is a 98 petrol model and has the lower picture type which I'd think yours has as well?) http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24447&s_id_model=98&s_code_image=G001580001

Probably clock spring. You need vcds lead to reset it anyway so first step is get that. Then use it to find the error being logged. If it mentioned drivers airbag and intermittent clock spring (also known as the squib) is next thing I'd suggest. If it mentions something else post back Vcds leads can be found on eBay for a few pounds. Just use with vcds lite from Ross tech which is free

sounds like the fluid is the cause - either theres not enough of it left in the box, or its in a poor state and needs changing. Theres info in the faq section on checking fluid level i'd start there and see what you find (if the fluid smells burnt or started to become thicker than it should be then you may get away with just changing it).

theres a bolt thats prone to coming loose on some of the gearboxes as well (operates the selector i think) which if it falls into the box will cause problems. It may be worth checking if its started working loose as it may be your issue, theres posts on here about it before. Some of them are prone to the selector mechanism filling up with debris which causes issues as well - solution on here before has been to remove debris and clean up area (wd40 i think). Again its been posted before so theres more detail on it in other posts.

it does look like its worn a hole through the body, Suspect it may be an mot failure if noticed as it would fit into the prescribed area (near suspension mounting) for a failure. I'd have thought it was weldable though?

Scour eBay or parts breakers seems the cheaper option from what others have said

It may be one of the seals is sticking on the rack, would suggest you try to raise the front of the car and see if the steering becomes any lighter - if not disconnect the rack (undo the track rod ends) and see if the wheels themselves move as you'd expect, this should allow you to narrow down the area with the fault. If there is oil leaking from the rack though I'd suspect thats where your problem lies. I would have a look in the reservoir as you may be losing it to inside the boot on the end of the rack so it may be running without enough oil in the system as a result hence the heavy steering.

probabbly not drivershafts then, hows the fluid level in the power steering looking? any signs of leakage of oil on the steering rack or elsewhere?

Broken wires in door gaiters would be the likly cause - check the boot first (drivers side) then the doors. Suspect you will find broken/shorted wires in the boot to be the cause

What sort of noise is it? Do you get the same noise when trying to turn whilst stationary (engine running) or just whilst moving?

Wouldn't expect so as it goes in ok when engine not running?

Try rebleeding the clutch you might have some air stuck down there or old fluid that didn't come out completely. It does sound like the clutch to be at fault if your finding its ok when not running. Only other thing i can suggest is to try pumping the clutch a few times then changing gear to see if it goes in any easier. In any case it sounds like the slave cylinder is at fault but you may be lucky enough to sort it without having to pull it apart

Are you losing any brake fluid? it could be the clutch slave cylinder starting to give up and leaking fluid into the clutch housing, but hard to tell without taking it apart. Does it go in ok without the engine running? Mine started doing the crunching thing not long before the clutch gave out completely - started slipping and gave up completely a few thousand miles later. If your not losing fluid it may be worth trying to bleed the clutch to see if it improves.

Been thinking about this - the other way you might be able to approach it is to splice the existing kit into the door lock motors on the existing door lock instead (using the kit to control the existing locks rather than the ones its supplied with). Would take some working out to see what way is best to tackle it, but probabbly end up more reliable than trying to attach to the door handle cables (as they also allow you to open the door I can see this might be more problematic than it first appears).

I've seen two in others - usually 2016 sandwiched ontop of one another. This would provide 6v rather than the 3 you currently have. Needs someone to confirm really as I don't have original remote locking. Did it ever work with batteries you had installed?

Might be worth trying to get a replacement and programming it - example on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-ALHAMBRA-VW-SHARAN-FORD-GALAXY-REMOTE-KEY-/111719180368?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1a02fb6850 You would need to swap the pats chip and blade part from your existing key to the new fob and sync the fob to your car (the info on doing that is on here somewhere). Not sure if the pats chip is fixed to the key or the fob part as yours is different to mine.

Something like this is what i meant - Its managed to hold the boot gaiter that covers the wires on mine in place for nearly a year now without issues (due to previous owner managing to melt it) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PU-SEALER-ADHESIVE-SEALANT-SEAM-BONDING-TIGER-SEAL-P-U-310ML-WINDSCREEN-BLACK-/171655728707?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27f77a8e43

Replace the battery if you haven't already done so. If the light is on the key and still not working it could be a broken switch in the key - have a look on ebay for a repair kit (i'd expect at least 1 switch to still work if this was the case though).

Windscreen sealant I've found works when other stuff doesn't hold (its worked on the boot gaiter on mine!)

Have a check of the wiring round the join in the front passengers footwell if you haven't already. Its not unknown for it to fail there due to corrosion from the leaking rear washer pipe. I can't see a reason this wouldn't work http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-REMOTE-KEYLESS-CENTRAL-DOOR-LOCKING-KIT-KEYLESS-ENTRY-2-OR-4-DOOR-/191000591692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c7885bd4cunless you can't mate it to the door handle connection of course. But since that listing gives a uk number it may be worth contacting them to ask anyway? I'd be inclined to try a scan of the central locking with vcds though first if you have access to a lead - for two reasons, the first it may tell you that theres a fixable fault present that is causing the problem, the second is if you get no response then its a good chance its the locking ecu at fault (either its not receiving any power, or its dead?)

7204768 or 95NW 13464 AB is for the heater controls 1006579 or 95VW 1364 BA for the clock When i've swapped them i found the only way I could get them was by removing bulb and taking to motor factors to identify - ford didn't have any and couldn't/wouldn't get any in either. This was the dash clocks bulbs though. Incidently a year later its gone again though.