BrianH

Its basically the same as the other side, but made much more awarkard by the lack of anything to grab onto to remove it from the gearbox. I need to swap mine out as the inner cv joint on mine has failed, will take some photos if I get chance The procedure in the haynes manual pretty much covers it if you have that to hand.

You shouldn't be able to see the wires in the door hinge area under normal circumstances they should be enclosed by the gaiter. They will be the cause of the windows not working though from the drivers side - details on fixing in the faq section. Being a diesel i think the run on pump may be your issue (separate electric pump that pushes hot water to the rear heater) or it could be an issue with the heater inside (flaps not moving) - do the heater hoses get hot on both sides of the feed to the front heater? Only idea i can suggest for the parking sensors is check the boot gaiter on the drivers side - if the front door has broken wires the boot will probably contain more, and these cause all sorts of odd things to happen when broken Where have you brought it from? Car dealer or private sale or somewhere else?

P0415 will relate to the secondary air pump - this is used to aid heating the cat. Car will still work without it present, but cat takes longer to get to operating temp. This may mean it struggles to pass the emissions test at your next mot, but mine still passed without the SAI pump (as mine is completely knackered it looks like it caught fire at some point, and is currently in a box in the garage somewhere). The list Greggers posted above is generally a good one to use.

That's cross referenced from microcat btw against your variant. Shouldn't be for booster heater as the petrol ones don't have it.

incidentally the P0xxx codes should be standard across all manufacturers as far as I know.

possible that old faults have been fixed and codes not cleared relating to them. Once you have cleared them do any come back?

And its possible that the connector is corroded or not making good contact as well.

number 23 or 27 on this diagram http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24348&s_id_model=98&s_code_image=G001566008 23 is for the air conditioning model with black/white in the description, 27 doesn't say anything about ac but does say grey in the description.

The crimp on the mk2 versions is known to be a cause of issues which ends up melting the fusebox. If it looks corroded you may have found your issue. Easiest thing to check first is the output from the alternator itself - if this is significantly higher than what your seeing on the end of the cable then you need to replace the cable (solder the end to the connector to stop it happening again - detail in the faqs)

That does sound a bit too low to charge the battery to me generally its over 14v to charge as they have said. I'd still recheck the tailgate wiring though even if its been done previously as the design of it makes it very prone to failure if you still find problems afterwards.

Are you sure both fans are actually working when they are turned on to full speed?

Either is possible how old is the battery? Also what battery is it (size/model) and which version/year of the Galaxy do you have?

Its got a different part number - see below links MK1 > http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24449&s_id_model=98&s_code_image=G001580302 MK2 > http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24765&s_id_model=99&s_code_image=G002110406 This might mean significant differences or maybe not. some of those numbers will relate to lhd variants as well. I'd imagine the 2.0 would be using the same rack as the 2.3 but would check that if you have microcat or a number to cross reference off the existing rack before deciding to try it.

looking through some other posts on here suggests that a chunk of the wiring in the passenger footwell is related to the alarm among other things. First thing try pulling fuse 32 (i think this one is for the alarm among some other things) to see if it will shut the alarm off. Also check the wires there (they run along the side of the car under the bit at the bottom of the door - remove the plastic trim and they are clipped down there). See if theres any damage to them.

just pull the plug off - theres clips above and below it, press these together and pull gently.

You'd be correct - its there, worth a try unplugging it to see if you can regain some sanity. Only other thing i can think to try is a scan with vcds lite if it will speak to the alarm - i've never tried it personally. Have tried to post a photo of it, but for some reason the forum won't allow me to today.

I've got a set of them i picked up a while back - I use them on the front as it makes it dead easy, but could work around not having it if required. Essential to have something for the back though. Mine is similar to this one if you decide to go that route I've not managed to find a car they don't fit onto yet either. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-NEW-BRAKE-CALIPER-PISTON-REWIND-WIND-BACK-TOOL-KIT-22-PIECES-SET-DIY-/311183724428?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4873fecf8c

take a screwdriver and put it into the hole where the latch goes Take a screwdriver or similar and put it into the lock where i've put an arrow below, pull the outer handle and then push the screwdriver towards the opening (away from the door towards the middle of the car) it should then release and work after that (you've engaged the catch with the door open thats all). You should still be able to turn the key in the boot lock though either way battery connected or not. As you have said if the battery is off then it won't open on the handle. I'll have a look in mine tomorrow theres one other idea i've got to get the car drivable - see if theres a switch that detects the bonnet open, if there is disconnecting it usually prevents the alarm from arming itself. (its too dark outside for me to look now)

Ae is auto europea. That won't help you though. It's a VW or seat part number you've given. Best bet is either one of the breakers or contact some of the ones on eBay listing ones for breaking and see if they can help. Partsgateway is another option.

Reason I say that is the ones I currently have squeal. Horrificly so. Every time you go anywhere near the brake pedal. I was hoping they would stop but if anything it's got worse over the last 30000 miles its done on them. I managed to find some ferrodo ones on eBay just need to get round to fitting them. Pagid are generally fine as well. Not used mintex but would go for those over the unbranded ones personally

Does the window on the door in question work? the usual wire to break is the red or brown one that supplies it as its thicker, this seems to control quite a bit of the door electrics though. Go the other way with the wires - release the slack inside the door itself, then pull the excess out through the door hinge side (don't think you will get it to go the other way). You may succeed in getting into the boot if the suspected broken wire is in the front door, once you can operate the lock from there. You should be able to open it off the key either way providing the lock itself isn't actually broken. if all else fails disconnect the battery and see if you can move any of the wires going to the tailgate from inside the boot (remove the drivers side trim on the pillar to do so). If one has snapped you may be able to disturb it enough to get the locks to release. Once you do make sure you check the tailgate loom for any broken wires before you close it again though! You don't need to touch the passenger side of the tailgate, its only the washer pipe there.

Don't buy the cheapest pads/discs you can find either - National are particually ones to avoid I've discovered.

Also it may be theres nothing actually wrong with your motor besides it not receiving power or a signal due to a broken wire, so you may not want to condem it just yet. Think in your position I'd tackle removing the door card first to recheck the wires. Also if you can get the connector off of the door pillar and inspect the wiring there it might show a bad connection on the connector there as ViperClive has already pointed out.

its possible to remove the motor - the first bit is to remove the handle on the outside (torx head screw nearest the handle side on the door) and then you should be able to drop the lock motor down and withdraw the whole lot. Its a bit fiddly though be warned You also need to get the door card off - you will almost certainly break some of the yellow clips doing that, so be prepared to replace them The collar is a rubbish bit of "design" which is a common failure point, and the reason i fitted a universal remote locking kit to mine (as it has no remote locking being an aspen). After the 3rd one of those broke it annoyed me too much. Once you get the lock out try operating the lock bit with a screwdriver - if its difficult to turn this is why it broke the collar in the first place. either solve the sticking issue, or replace with one in a better state. While you have the door card off use the opportunity to release some of the slack in the cables and check there really isn't any broken ones there (every door except the passenger side front in mine had some broken insulation on the cables when i tackled mine last year, the boot in particular was a disaster area and how anything on it worked in the state it was in is beyond me)

It may be the drivers door lock motor at fault. It could be it's got stuck in deadlock. Does the passenger side do the same?