BrianH

Its also possible its a leak on the vacuum system - the brake servo hoses are known to split at the ends where they push together. You'd probabbly be able to hear it, but worth a look

Does the stereo appear to light up/operate at all? Its possible you have broken wires in the door gaiters though it would be surprising if all the speakers have managed to fail due to that. Unless maybe one has shorted out and managed to stop the stereo from working at all. Which unit are you using now?

Might be an idea to check the coolant level as that may give you an earlier warning of a problem. It may just be that its getting hotter when you have stopped than it used to if you have changed anything - EG getting stuck in stationary traffic more than you used to.

It might be worth checking the gearbox oil - Both for how much is in there and what state its in. If its similar to the 5 speed its fairly straightfoward to drain and replace if deemed necessary.

Yes exactly what i was trying to say!. Put simply the different versions have a common fusebox, but with different bits connected depended on whats fitted to the car.

Have you replaced the wire/crimp as well? If not theres a good chance you will be replacing it again. Theres info in the faq section on that. I wouldn't pay too much attention to what the symbols show on the plastic as its vague to say the least. If you look at the fuse contacts in 33 is anything in both sides of the contacts? if theres only 1 there it isn't connected to anything. There is a better version of the fusebox layout (scanned pages from the manual with the english descriptions of the circuits) on here somewhere, but I can't find the post with it currently.

Coil pack would be worth looking into or a new set of plugs if they haven't been replaced recently. You might be able to get more info with which cylinder using an obd reader, although its possible nothing is being detected for a misfire. Also any holes in the top end of the exhaust can sometimes cause that sort of problem.

Could be the starter solenoid depending what your bridging to. Usually relay 30 causes it to crank but fail to start. Look at the led on the drivers door - if its flashing rapldly its usually indicaties a immobiliser issue which is suggesting relay 30. It may also be worth looking if the fusebox has started melting being a mk2 - theres info on other posts on here about that down to a bad crimp on a cable.

That sounds very much like an issue with either the supply or ground side. If you can get hold of a multimeter (even a cheap one from amazon would be adequate) then it would help as you can check the voltage and resistance (i'd suspect your receiving some power but not as much as you should be, probabbly down to a partially broken/corroded wire). I'd suggest starting with checking the resistance of the larger wires first (find an exposed end and set the meter to the ohms setting and touch both ends - with it disconnected from the supply if you can). Have you taken the connector apart (the large toothed wheel will turn allowing you to seperate it from the car body, but you may find the connector then disappears inside the bodywork if the retaining ring comes off, so be aware of that). Are the pins ok there? (no melting or corrosion) Bearing in mind the water issue, it would also be sensible to sort that - an assistant with a hose should enable you to locate it and sort it. It may be worth dropping the fusebox down and checking its not leaking around there somewhere, as this could actually be the source of the problem as it is above the drivers footwell, where your leak seems to be (should only take around 15 minutes) I doubt the pollen filter is relevent though i'm sure i've seen something about it on here before causing leaking (maybe a modified design of the frame or not fitted correctly?), but since its on the wrong side of the car i doubt its that

What mk/engine type is it? The mk2 is prone to the fusebox meltdown i think the dash clocks usually don't light up properly if you have that problem. The rest of the issues i'd look at the boot gaiter though i doubt the fans are connected to the other faults.

when you tried the extra reg how did you try it (did you swap it or did you just plug it in loose?)

Doubtful its the window being stuck as another reg has been tried (i take it this has been plugged in loose rather than put in for testing when saying this?) Wire check as you state above sounds the way to go. If that rear washer isn't working but the pump is running it would be advisable to find where the water is going - the usual failure point is that joint as its only pushed together. assuming the water is acutally getting out of the pump that is! (after all its going somewhere if thats the case, and whereever that place is doesn't appear to be allowing it to escape.)

I'd start looking around that wash joint area as others have reported finding damage to the wires there which would be likly to cause door issues. Is the scuttle tray back in? (When i left mine out for a few days whilst working on the car it appeared to cause more problems with the water getting inside the car, though i couldn't see how it was managing to get in) The ground point that Silverbeast pointed out would be sensible to look at while your there as this may be the cause of the window issue. Have you rechecked the drivers door - i know you say its got a new loom, but it would be sensible to recheck it anyway rather than assuming its ok. Which bit of the door seal is it? are you talking about the long seal that runs round the door or something else? Is the outer weatherstrip in place? (the one that sits on the outside of the glass)?

If you don't have a sunroof try the scuttle drains at the front. Faq section has details on getting to them they get blocked with leaves. Wash pipe is other side so probably not that. Does the pump run when you pull lever or do you just hear the rear wiper going?

The other common point where wires can cause a problem is usually in the passenger footwell - around where the join in the rear wash pipe is (under the side trim next to the door). Is this a UK RHD vehicle? The two issues are probabbly being caused by the same thing - the locking ecu on some models sits under the passenger seat and is at risk of getting flooded from what others have said, the locks and window wiring is closly related as the door locks allow global opening if you hold the key on lock/unlock. Any idea where the water is coming from - is it antifreeze or rainwater or washer bottle water?

maybe on the back doors, If the boot one hasn't been done its almost guaranteed to have something broken, Logic says it shouldn't be affected by the boot, but all sorts of odd symptoms show up with the boot so its certainly possible and definitely worth looking at

6PK1153 is the one of the two options you give listed on Euro car parts which would be the longer one of the two you have. I don't have a diesel to tell you for sure, but i know when i replaced the one on my petrol 2.0 that the one first supplied just did not fit. Ended up it should have been a few mm longer (i think 3 mm was the difference) but without that 3mm it wouldn't go over the tensioner!

It should unlock all doors if its working correctly(mine now does) but he did say it doesn't turn, so maybe its not the right lock/key or just seized. Since you already have had issues with the boot i'd start there - if the previous repair has been a case of rejoining the broken wire theres a good chance its broken again with others. Splicing a new section in to replace is the way to go. Does the rear screen heater actually work? this seems a prime one to fail and may not be noticed immediately as the wire running to it is much thicker

Alternatively this should work as it lists the Alhambara and Sharan and specifices more than just the engine management. May be worthwhile if you don't have access to a laptop or the option to get the car close enough to a computer to plug the other lead in. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-Scanner-Engine-ABS-Airbag-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool-VW-Seat-Skoda-Audi-COM-Reset-/221305008083?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3386ce6fd3

Start by trying to get a fault code out of it - if its failing to rev beyond 3000rpm that sounds like its going into limp home mode so there is something wrong detected, once you have your fault code see if anyone has reported it here previously using the search that may give you an answer if the code itself isn't helpful. If theres nothing for the code post back here and someone may be able to help. A vag-com cable off ebay or similar and a copy of vcds lite would be enough to get the codes you need, and cost you only a few quid Example of the cable i've got that works fine http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-USB-Cable-KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD2-OBD-OBDII-COM-Volkswagen-Audi-Seat-Skoda-/390665706953?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5af57d9dc9 VCDS can be downloaded from ross-tech - http://www.ross-tech.com/

The front seems more likly to fail particually the drivers as you use it more often! Your best to pull the gaiter off each and have a thourough look on all of them - the only one i found on mine intact was the front passenger door. Trouble is the door and boot wires cause all sorts of random symptoms - mine for example not only effected the locking (expected) and the rear screen heater (also expected) and the windows but also the radio would lose its memory every time ignition was switched off despite it appearing to have the required 12v on the correct feed (i guess it was momenterally dropping the voltage when ignition was switched off). The hatch also suffers quite badly for two reasons - it opens further than the doors (its got around 90 degrees of movement in normal use) and it also has a lot of wires going into it making it more prone to problems. As stated above the only way to be sure they are fixed is replacing the damaged section keeping all your joins out of the hinged area. You run the risk of the deadlocking activiating and being unable to open the door if it breaks at the wrong time as a couple of people have discovered recently.

that sounds very much like the switches are the cause of your issue to me (with the sticking lock). If you still have it apart the switch assembly will come out, but you need the catch out to take it out. It could be that the tailgate lock isn't on the same key if its been swapped previously.

VCDS is the diagnostic software used to communicate with the car. VCDS is a Ross tech product which you can use with a compatible cable and the diagnostic socket below the ashtray

there is several yellow clips inside the door card which will be holding it on. If its a rear door you stand a reasonable chance of removing the card by prising the edges up without breaking it (remove the seat next to it if you can) front door would be more tricky. Your almost guaranteed to break the clips when removing them anyway so it would be an idea to find replacements - example on ebay here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190853132006

And in response to the topic the global opening of the windows is down to the switches next to the lock barrel, though i guess you already realised that now? Incidentally the boot lock also does this function.