BrianH

Only thing i would say on the ones from ECP etc is don't expect them to last forever. Mine BARELY passed with one that had only just been fitted to replace the original one which had disintegrated into rust/holes and powered bits of cat due to misfires down to the coil pack. Waiting to see if it still works come this September.

The idler pulley is the same. If you only need the pulley without the tensioner. At least the one on the 2.0 is

Start by checking your air filter - if its clogged it may be just that causing it. Otherwise you may need to have a look at the catalytic converter. You might find some benefit from a fuel system cleaner first though.

If its been broken a while its possible it will stick somewhat, though not a good sign its doing so. There is oil put in on a regas (or should be) so it might sort itself out if your lucky. Think you will have to give it a try to tell for sure.

I've rarely got away with reusing the rocker cover gasket, and when i have its been a fairly new one thats been reused. Yours is probably quite hard and disturbing its been enough to make it fail to seal properly. Sounds like you now know whats the issue though.

Broken wire/wires in the door gaiter is the likly cause - if you pull the gaiter back you may be able to find the wire without removing the door card first. Start on the drivers door first, and splice in new sections to replace (info in the faq section if you need)

If its really going into limp mode then checking for fault codes is where you need to start - if its a diesel use vcds to have a look (will also talk to the auto box if that helps). Petrol will need an obd code reader. Once you know what fault code is coming up have a look on here for it, post back if no luck.

Its much more likely the relay is your issue. If you can get it out and apart you may be able to resolder it to fix it. Otherwise once you have it out you can find replacement by number on it. Gsf had the one I needed.

Which light is the problem? Do the rest work? Checked the bulb I assume?

Should be one of the ones in the interior fusebox - the one near the drivers knee . Not sure if its small or large blade fuse without looking.

Isn't there just the washer pipe in the passenger side one?

It may be the bearing sticking particularly if the cars been sat for a while without being used, keeping an eye on it sounds like the sensible option at the moment.

You might be able to get a better look whats going on with a small mirror and a torch inside the door since you've already had the door card off. I think if I remember correctly when I was troubleshooting mine the cable goes more than one turn around the spool (its in at the top and goes around a whole turn and around 3/4 of another turn before exiting the spool, Can't be 100% sure though, I think thats what Greggers is getting at). Your best bet might be to have a run up to a local scrapyard if you can find one and have a look, if you can't be sure then at least you can take the regulator out there and see whats involved to accessing it. The only other thing i've known to cause problems is the weatherstrip on other vehicles - they corrode inside and swell up, eventually pinching the glass and either making it impossible to move or difficult.

the door open is done off the switch at the bottom of the car (on the car chassis, not the door itself). Your issues will most likely be that wires in the passenger door in question are broken, or the actual lock motor has given up in that door. The back doors will tend to get opened wider than the front so the wires can get strained easier.

No sorry the diesel ac is different to the petrol. You might get some luck with vcds if you have access to it though?

theres an icing sensor somewhere in the system if its a petrol model your dealing with thats known to be the cause of problems (fills up with rubbish i think). Which engine is it your dealing with?

actually the one posted above by Silverbeast is on gsf - http://www.gsfcarparts.com/014vg0080 If you search for the topran part number from the ebay listing on gsf it comes up. Its also shown as in stock so may be worth looking in your local branch for £2.52 ? As stated above the diesel galaxies mk1/mk2 are just Sharans with a different badge on the outside so if it says it fits a Diesel Sharan of the same year it will fit a Diesel Galaxy.

Short term i found pulling fuse 19 stopped the central door locking from working and reverted it to the key only operation, As others have said it sounds like either you have a stuck motor (only the front ones as far as i know do this) where it either isn't moving by the lock motor (if this is the case you will be able to lock all doors from one side but not the other) or it is moving, but the car isn't receiving the correct signal back to say so. Theres two plugs on the motor - the main one operates the lock itself, the other smaller one at the top does the window opening and possibly the alarm. If you wind the front windows down and then try to lock them what happens? (or do they open themselves??) I think you may have to open the front door cards and look for yourself. Where did you source another loom from? If you haven't looked inside the gaiter on it I'd suggest doing so now as your fault may be there if its a used loom. Only other thing i can think you may be able to do to narrow it down is to disconnect the door looms one at a time and see if one door seems to cause the problem (you can disconnect them at the pillar, but be prepared that the plug may fall off into the car behind the pillar when you do)

I'd be surprised to find one on any of the factors type sites really - they aren't a part that usually breaks, Suggest you either contact one of the specialist breakers sites (parts gateway or similar), pay a visit to a scrapyard or ask on ebay of those breaking a car of the right version if they can help you.

The tool would be like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00KBQB1SS/ref=pd_aw_sbs_23_2?refRID=102M0ZGAZ4XQM970YHT2

Also the correct way of tackling it would be to get the system drained/vacced out first, though if you think the pipe already has a hole in it then there will be nothing much left inside the system anyway, certainly nothing under pressure. I'd speak to the people your going to get to regas it either way as they may want you to change other bits too particularly if its been open for any length of time.

Best thing to use if you can get hold of it is some of the oil used in the aircon system as you know that won't do anything to the seals. You don't need a lot so may be worth speaking to wherever your getting it regassed to see if you can get hold of some?

Theres also mention of a repeater (direction indicator) though i don't think all of them have one on the mirror hence the different shape. Is yours a manual or electric mirror?

Part numbers are different looking on microcat, though that doesn't mean they won't fit. The search isn't being definitive either. if you still have the fitting attached to the car i'd suggest remove it and check against the ones your looking at. Mirror glass won't matter - If its a mk2 it would just be better view given in the mirror (for something with huge mirrors the visibility in them is not impressive on the mk1) http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22661-wing-mirrors/?hl=%2Bwing+%2Bmirror

I think you may find the mirror glass itself is different (mk2 has wider angle of view by convex glass) whereas the mk1 is flat (mine is at least), Don't see any reason why you couldn't fit the mk2 type on a mk1 though if thats what you can find.