BrianH

Petrol mk1 is the same. I'd see no reason to think the mk 2 would change. Other Ford's I've seen are the same. Just the inlet for the clutch is higher up the reservoir so it doesn't take it below the min level of there is a leak.

AFAIK the mk1s don't have a DMF? Are you finding the brake fluid level to be dropping? (you may need to check the reservoir for this rather than relying on the light)

Ah that makes sense actually - If you try unplugging the radio with the doors locked on some fords it will set the alarm off (by design). Certainly the case on the mondeos of the same era so wouldn't be surprised to find the galaxy does the same.

Probabbly broken wires in the door gaiter? (common issue look in faqs or numerous posts with odd things not working) Unless you've taken the door card off and not mentioned it?

Try checking the one on the drivers side of the boot if you think those are bad - that will almost definitely be worse due to the angles involved. At least its an easier fix than some cars suffer with though

Well that info is probabbly good in a way. Depends why the gasket has gone, water pump is a possibility as you've already had it changed, but it shouldn't be as labour intensive as digging into the dash to get to the heater (and given that you've got a sign with the pressure in the tank of it having blown this sounds like a more accurate diagnosis)

Well done!

Given you say the hoses to the matrix are cold that might not be correct. Does the back one get hot?

You mean now fitted????

That should be fine it sounds like mine, The message to me sounds like you haven't told it the right com port on setting it up. First thing plug the interface into the diagnostic socket on the car and switch the ignition onto position 2 (engine doesn't need to be running, but dashboard lights showing battery etc should be lit) Plug the usb lead into the laptop If you goto start>run type in devmgmt.msc this should open device manager - expand the ports section and find what it says the port assigned to the "usb serial port" is - you want between com1 and com4 for vcds, I'd suggest you set it to com2 to start with. Then ok your way back to the desktop Open vcds-lite (if you've installed vag-com its an older version of the same program - you can download the current version from http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html) and on the first page select options, then in the first box inside the options select com2 (or whichever one of the ports you've used) and hit test again. If you haven't switched the ignition on you will get interface not found, if you've selected a port thats in use by something else you will get the same. The Sharan and Alhambera are effectively the same vehicle - even the Ford in the 2.8 version is the same thing with different badges on it, so the lead should be fine assuming the lead actually works.

According to the haynes mk1 manual you have the following Diesels 66kW to 09.96 > 1Z 66kW of 09.96 > AHU 66kW from 09.99 > AVG 81 kW > AFN Petrol (included incase anyone needs them in the future) 1998cc, DOHC 8v > NSE 2295cc, DOHC 16v > Y5B it also points towards the sticker on the timing belt cover in the vehicle identification section, doesn't appear its anywhere else as far as i can tell. Does that help at all?

Yes I know you said that but it's still recommended to check it's actually working! The new water pump is the reason I'd suspect the heater is possibly airlocked after refilling.

At least that seems to be working then, There isn't any reason to think the head gasket is gone unless your seeing the warning signs (white sludge in the oil, clouds of smoke/steam out the exhaust, pressure in the expansion tank that shouldn't be there etc). If your getting water returned to the expansion tank then the main engine water pump should be ok, it may just be an airlock - check the level of the coolent and run the engine with the cap off, allow it to warm up and you might manage to release it, otherwise you might have to drain it and refill it slowly to release it. another option you may have is to remove the hose clip from either side of the heater connection and pull the hose off the connector - this should allow you to release the air from it with any luck

It might be right, good way of starting would be to say what engine it actually is though? (diesel or petrol and size?) Sure it isn't here? https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=3e009701ec3e0d28!17031&authkey=!AP4OVk6oGt28hg0&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

If you don't know the power output then the etis site should tell you http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do

Are you getting coolent returned to the expansion tank when engine is running?

1) What lead have you got? 2) Are you using the vag-com software from the disc rather than vcds lite from Ross-tech? Its the same program, but much newer version. 3) What error are you actually getting?

Well given the choice of the manufacturer or Haynes I know which I'd choose. Think you've got more chance of getting air to escape upwards anyway. I've got microcat to work on an xp vm but not tis. Will have a further play with it

If i could get my TIS disc to work i'd have a look there, but i can't!. All i did is to open the bleed screw after bleeding the brakes and treated it as you would a brake. This was on replacing the csc and clutch though so it was empty of any fluid. I can't remember if I bled it again after replacing the master cylinder but don't remember it being particually difficult beyond the access. If you know how to solve the info1.ini dealer_env error I'll have a look on TIS. Checked Haynes and that suggests that the method above is correct, although thats no guarantee in itself.

You might want to bleed the clutch slave cylinder for that btw - i had the same issue which went away when i replaced the clutch and csc but suspect it was a dodgy csc in my case causing the dodgy gearchange symptoms (fine if you take your time, but doesn't want to be rushed!).

If it's working leave well alone! The quality of replacement ones is somewhat hit and miss. Kerbing the wheels can cause damage over time but they do also wear out. Knocking noises when steering and vibration being main symptoms of faults besides the worn splines issue

Your probably right on the j&r one I've just had to change one of the pair I'd put on the mondeo. Did get rid of a lot of the wobble under accleration though that I had with them. I Don't expect the other one to last much longer these had done around 20k

Lift the ashtray out its underneath

Yes. One afaik should come on with the ac on. If I were you I'd get a vcds lead - they can be had cheaply off eBay and do a scan for codes. I'd suspect you might find one of the fans seized or failing to turn personally.

your stuck then with it as far as i know, believe these are usually sold as seen affairs. The broken wire/window issue is relatively easy to sort - splice new bits of wire the same size in place and solder. FAQ section will assist with that. once you have the wires sorted the gaiter should be hiding/protecting the wires so it must have come loose from whoevers bodged it with tape previously. Heater hoses staying cold suggests a water circulation issue - there is a test of the water pump actually working - if i recall correctly then its a case of remove the expansion cap and check there is water being returned to the tank from the small hose (if it isn't theres a good chance the impeller has come away from the pump - it will also overheat under heavy load if this is the case). Is this both heaters or just one? if one which one? Only thing i can suggest is checking the other gaiters for the parking sensor wires first, and any fuses (if theres blown fuses these may be down to broken wires)