BrianH

Well thats drawn a blank, the one though partsgateway turns out is the wrong one. Looking like it will be a scrapyard trip i think to see if i can find a suitable alternative. Just annoying doing so as the master cylinder was replaced with a new one last september!

One single match from partsgateway. Best hope its a) correct and b) works! Just waiting for it to turn up now. Incidentally 247 spares seems very dodgy - just got an email today asking to call 0703 471 3179 to give further info. I can't find any indication of what that will cost, so not about to do that (more than enough info was in the initial enquiry anyway so suspect its some sort of premium rate scam).

Its the same programs you find some sellers on ebay asking for money for!

Yes i've already fixed that previously! Grease on the seal lip inside under the dash sorts it for a short time (it lasts around 1000 miles like that) or pressing slightly on the brake pedal stops it temporally.. I think a large section of the boot that should be on the back of the bit operated by the pedal has broken off previously and been removed as it doesn't look the same as the photos i've seen of others either.

Good point i've found that on one of mine before as well!

from the experience i had with the master cylinder when that failed (kept creeping down when the brakes applied) its a strange one exactly as you say, compounded futher by being only on the non-abs version (the mot tester who failed the brakes was surprised to find it didn't have abs so i don't think its common to not have it on these, maybe thats not the case). I've had one reply back so far on one of the sites, giving it till monday to see if any further come back. I had considered the same sort of thing with the servo but was trying to avoid doing so just yet. Mounting holes as you say look the same for where the servo is bolted to the chassis.

You will have more luck in the technical section than here, The door locking is probabbly a broken wire in the gaiter at the door pillar (solder in a new piece of wire don't try rejoining it). Speakers i've got 3 of the four plastic covers on mine broken (the remaining one is brittle). In that state you can almost see the screws holding the speaker in place, I've been considering replacing with standard speakers with a metal grille to protect them, but have got more urgent issues to sort first. It looks to me that if you can find speakers of a suitable size that this is possible without removing the door card. Failing that the door card is easy to remove, slightly more difficult to get back on after though (your bound to break some of the retaining clips, so getting some ahead of tackling it is recommended). Clock if you haven't already discovered prises out of the housing, bulb is in the back in a holder, twist to remove it and take somewhere to find a suitable replacement,, Not sure if the main beam warning light is a bulb or an led without taking the speedo out (another job i need to do as well as the backlight on the fuel gauge has blown on mine).

Do you have a hissing sound coming from the dashboard?

Ironically thats not half the cost of ford (£532+VAT) If they could still get it. I've tried breakers but not had any luck as yet, will try the two you've listed i think. also most of the matches when you go though google don't lead anywhere despite looking promising at first - its only autopartmaster that seems to have anything. Cheers Brian

(9) 7M2612105D brake servo with dual diaphragm / for models without anti-locking system / F 7M-X-000 001>>* 9"/8" rhd / Thats the one i'm looking for, any ideas who/where may have it? (i've already tried quite a number of places online, There doesn't appear to be a pattern alternative either). Matching up the master cylinder using vagcat (which i know is 7M0 611 019 B and is an oddball one anyway) allowed eliminating the majority of the options, leaving only 2 the one above and the very similar number 7M1 612 105 D (which i can find a new one of, but thats the LHD one!)

Well its not good news either way, both Ford and VW have the part listed as obsolete and unavailable. There isn't a sticker i can see either having removed the bulkhead panel. For reference its VW part number 7M2 612 105D. It also appears the LHD varients have a bigger 10" servo rather than the 8/9" one used on the RHD ones. Think the only answer is going to be to remove it and try to source a replacement that way (or hope theres another number on it once its extracted that i currently cannot see!)

The common issue with those sort of problems comes down to vacuum hoses more often than not. Any idea what code they were getting? if you can find that and do a search on here you may find an answer. No idea on how to get to the sensor though.

Or http://www.freefordradiocode.co.uk/for nothing.

I don't think anyone minds which name your car has on the front, they all share the same gearbox (the mk1 is ford design for the manual, but vw for the auto). You might struggle with some of the engine related bits on here to get an answer with the petrol versions(those are different) but its worth a try either way. Checking the ATF as suggested is where you want to start as you have already been pointed towards, theres some instructions on it in the faq section at the top of this board.

Its given me somewhere to look. It does explain the original issue somewhat. I noticed the bottom of the motor cover was all loose before but didn't realise there was more than the motor there. Will investigate and maybe get the soldering iron out. Cheers will give it a go and see how that looks

Hey everyone Has anyone else had the wipers fail to stop when switched off (they run on either full speed or slow speed, but switching them to intermittent or off keeps them on the slow speed). Its a mk1 aspen 2.0 petrol 97 reg but appears to really be a later 98 spec somehow(no lock module under seat, 3 layers to fusebox etc). Wipers have played up previously failing to do the intermittent and slow speed but seemed to just fix itself. Guessing its a new stalk or relay just not sure which relay controls them (actually found it may be relay 53) or if there is a common fault besides them being seized that might cause this. All the broken wires in the gaiters repaired late last summer so think they are ok. Cheers

The petrol one I've got is the same - it barely gets beyond the n in normal on the gauge unless its sat in traffic for extended periods and then within 20-30 seconds of moving again its down to the cooler end. I think you will find the rear heater adds so much extra coolant into the system it never warms up enough to open the stat in colder weather like it is at the moment.

i think you will find they are stepper motors rather than normal ones (there would be more than 2 wires going to them if this is the case) so if its juddering or twitching its probabbly lost one of the phases. It will be more likly the motor is the cause that being the case. They wouldn't usually get much wear so used ones should be ok anyway. When you come to fitting them it will help to set them to the start position first and set the switch to the same, then once they are together move the switch through its full range, this should allow it to set itself (i've found if you don't do this sometimes they will just keep moving on other cars, not really had to mess with them on the galaxy other than when a pheasant decided to play chicken with me on a dual carriageway - it ended up dislodging the balljoint inside the light meaning it was pointed at the ground around 2 foot infront of the car!).

If both are not working/moving when switch is moved are you sure it isn't something besides the motors if they aren't moving (the switch being one option, a blown fuse possibly caused by the juddery motor or another fault elsewhere being another?) Might help narrow it down with some details - mk1 and mk2 headlights are a different design, not sure if any have automatic self leveling on the higher trim levels either?

You'd have better luck finding an empty area of the connector and drilling a hole straight though it and then running the wire past it. Will make it a pain to deal with in future as you won't be able to unplug it. Or solder directly onto the connector provided enough of its left to do so. Start a new topic if your still struggling to solve it - it will only get confusing otherwise!

has the key fallen apart recently? If so theres a good chance the transponder has come out. If not the common cause of problems is that relay 30 has given up (the solder joints go dry and don't make proper contact). Theres info on here about it, its a case of take the fusebox apart, find the relay with the big 30 on top and either replace it or repair it (resolder the joints). If the door led on the drivers door is flashing rapidly when you try and turn this is usually a good sign of the problem. Its usually intermittent though. If your not sure about the key it may be worth asking the local key cutter to put it in his machine to see if he can see the transponder chip if hes friendly enough? (if others have access to the key it may be that one of them has had it come apart and lost the chip?) Only other thing worth a check is that the ring round the ignition barrel is intact - it plugs in under the dash near the steering column it may have managed to come out.

Given that he has only ever made 1 post here and it was a while ago your not likly to get an answer (by default this forum doesn't notify of new replies via email AFAIK). The atf(the oil) is the most common issue with these, either its aged badly/contaminated or there isn't enough of it, theres info in the faqs on checking the fluid level (it would be an idea to check its condition at the same time) and replacing it. If your having issues then checking the fluid won't cost anything besides time. Personally i'm not aware there is a filter in the box i've never seen mention of one on here before.

only thing i can think is if you had a single filament bulb jammed into a fitting for the stop/tail light type bulb though even that shouldn't cause issues which much besides the lighting. If the wires were broken they will cause trouble sooner or later (i couldn't get the boot to stay locked with mine was the main reason i had to tackle it, though the rear heated screen not working and some other annoying problems were there as well).

Doubt its the maf then, if anything that causes a lack of power and won't clear by just switch off and back on, You SHOULD be able to unplug the maf and see an improvement if its at fault. Although thats rarely seemed to make any difference to me. It sounds more like the injector wiring issue to me. If you can update the topic title you might get the attention of someone whos knows the diesel varients better than me. Though i'd have a look at the wiring as i gather from what others have said it starts to fall apart (hence causing the fault). Theres definitely a few posts here about it. If you can get hold of a laptop even briefly to have a look a cable doesn't cost much and may give you a bit more to go on.

the injector wiring on the diesel engines is reported to be problematic causing spluttering/misfire like symptoms. Any error codes being logged?