BrianH

Cheers the parts diagram will help. Looks like i'll have to get the bulkhead panel out and try and see the number on the servo if its still there. I suspect as you say the servo is the same (I think the brakes seem to have been brought as complete systems like the wipers - I know mine are ATE from previous dealings with them!)

tbh if you get in there you may well find its beyond the bodging state if its as much of a mess as mine was. Theres about 20 wires in that gaiter and almost every one of mine was damaged if not broken completely. Someone else had been in there previously as well and managed to melt the gaiter which wasn't helpful either! Have a look that the right bulbs are in the sockets - if you take them out there should be two contacts on the base not just one!

Hi Been having problems with a leak on the brake servo its from the seal on the back where the pedal operates the brake (you can hear it hissing when theres no pressure on the pedal). The problem is I can't seem to find the right servo anywhere as its an ATE master cylinder (recently replaced with issues finding the replacement at the time) without abs on a rhd galaxy with build date of 27.10.1997 Far as i can tell the ford part number is 1065177 Trouble is I can't find anyone listing the right servo - all the ones listed on ECP etc don't match my model (i can find lhd without abs, but not rhd, or rhd with abs). The brakes do still receive servo assistance, but this seems to cause running issues so i'd like to fix it, but don't really want to have to replace the servo if i can avoid it. Does anyone know if the seal is available from somewhere else besides ford (as far as i can tell they don't do it as its not on the parts diagram) or is there another way to source it (is the vw one the same for example and if so is there a cross ref for the part number?) Cheers Brian

If that isn't it start looking in the boot that supplies the tailgate power (the drivers side one). Good chance you have broken wires in there shorting together.

Definietely a good idea to change both - if you have one new and one old the car will sit lopsided normally. Be aware the top of the struts have a bad habit of collecting water in the cups and rusting up so it may not be as quick a job as you'd expect.

If its not the wiring (though its most likly to be wiring related) it may be the motor itself has packed up - by operating it with the key or handle your effectively moving the parts the motor would otherwise be working. The wiring on the galaxy doors is known to be problematic though so rule that out first.

FYI its better to replace the dodgy section - you might get away with it with the boot but certainly the door ones tend to just break again (sometimes with the doors then unable to open if the deadlock engaged at the time).

Get hold of a vag-com lead and vcds lite and have a look for any error codes on the abs module. Could be a bad connection to a sensor or broken ring. Or could be more serious, but finding what it thinks is actually wrong and bringing the light on in the first place is your best chance of sorting it out. If it comes and goes that suggests to me its a sensor type problem (either the ring its sensing isn't quite right - They sometimes split or crack, or the sensor is in poor condition etc). AFAIK if the abs detects a problem its supposed to work as a non-abs system hence the behavour you have noticed, though obviously some faults may prevent this being possible.

if its started and running (warmed up after a couple of minutes should be enough) then its unlikly to be the glow plugs. (you mentioning it does it at normal temp as well). Its not very kind on the engine to try and acclerate from 30 in 5th gear though! Assuming its diesel (you mention glow plugs) it could be worth doing an italian tune up, particually if its been driven gently the majority of the time.

Torque does work on the 2.0 as i've tried it (the only thing i noticed is it shows the wrong alternator voltage but being pre obd2 thats not really surprising and was the only thing i'd noticed). As Silverbeast says the 2.8 is vw. The advantage of using torque over a normal code reader being more info available (code lookup on web, actual sensor data being visible not just fault codes etc). Your right to say it doesn't work on all vehicles though - my sisers Hyundai doesn't give any sensor data though does show fault codes. Most fords are fairly generous with info being available from what i've seen.

If your looking for the petrol engine then Torque and a bluetooth adaptor works quite well - lets you see sensor data as well as error codes. Depends what you want really. If you need airbag and a few other modules on the early galaxy then afaik vag-com is the only way to go with (i've seen similar boxes to the obd code readers on ebay that say they will read fault codes on airbags etc but not actually used any of them)

Yeah that's not an ie problem that's a google issue I've had that as well. and the redirect loop is what i'm seeing and have been for the last few days. At least I know its not just me now!

Is anyone else having problems in getting the topics to open in firefox? (gives a message about requesting a page in a way that will never complete?)

Well there is specifically ones that run to the door lock. it could be either of the front doors as well. Generally its advised to take it apart and look which ones have broken (the thicker ones being the rear window heater, ground and wiper). They are all different colours so re-joining them shouldn't be too much of an issue - I used a length of trailer wire to replace the thinner ones and lengths of single thicker wire for the rest (buy yourself some different colours if possible) The boot light is possibly down to one of the door switches rather than the boot, offhand I can't remember how the boot one is operated.

Its a common issue - theres some more detailed instructions in the faq secton on doing it, Replacing the damaged sections is really the only way to go (don't try bodging in connectors or twisting the wires together it will cause you more problems!)

It doesn't sound clockspring like as it normally mentions intermittent in the wording if its that causing the problem. I recall when i had mine apart there is a metal clip that shorts the contacts, but i think this is on the clock sping side of the connector. Without another to compare to i don't know what to suggest, but maybe a trip to the scrapyard with the multimeter is in order? Is the error any different with the clockspring disconnected and a reset done? It may be a faulty ecu as theres not really much else left besides the wires as you already know. unless one of the connectors in there is not making good contact with the clock spring conacts maybe, but i suspect you've already checked that.

If its to do with the fault you have in the other part of the forum its doubtful its the ecu at fault there. You may get more luck posting the error you currently have in this section rather than the questions one.

Any clues on this question as well?

It might be worth checking the bolt thats been mentioned to sheer off on the selector if you haven't already done so.

Also be very wary of where your prodding with the multimeter around the airbag system as you don't want to accidently set them off!

the only option i can think you have is to find the other end of the wires and see what their resistance is end to end when disconnected from the loom. 1.5 isn't particually high though so i wonder if the fault lies elsewhere. I've used a resistor to prove which part of mine was at fault before it would be an easy test to do if you can find one of the right value (put resistor in circuit and perform reset see if it clears). Were the ones you used to replace known to be good ones? The first clock spring i got off ebay was useless so if its used then it may be that causing your issue. I found it was difficult to sensibly test the clock spring anyway as it will tend to break in a way that shows as intermittent rather than consistant due to the ribbon cables used and the movement involved.

At a guess he would of put it in such a way to hold the compressed spring in its compressed position reading the thread (IE like you would do with coil spring compressors for suspension springs). You may not get an answer given the thread is 5 years old from the OP

Start by having a look at the door gaitors. Only other test i can think of is to check the resistance of the speaker coils starting at the connector to determine if the head unit appears to be at fault or if its blown speakers/wiring faults causing it.

The manual 5 speed is a modified/adapted version of the Ford mtx-75 (badged as a ctx-75 i think). 6 speeds are vw based as are the auto boxes i think.

Check the fluid level and condition generally is a good start. Though if this is a mkIII you might do better in the mk3 section of this board. If its a mk2 then theres info in the faq section.