BrianH

Resistor pack or "hedgehog" is the likely source of the problem. Might be resolved by removing and cleaning contacts, more likely its failed and needs replacing. Theres info here about getting to it, i think you remove the glovebox but the search should tell you.

Ignore the maf message that's probably where it was unplugged a few posts back as long as it clears and does not come back. The speed sensor may be worth looking into if it appears again. The focus I've got has issues down to the speed sensor not working properly which causes odd behaviour like over revving. Been struggling to get that one out though hence it's still broken. Clear the faults and drive it. See what comes back

Theres supposed to be some adjustment you can make on the pedal (i haven't had to look at mine so this is based on the post i linked to earlier) that alters the way the switch is pushed down. First things first check the switch operates when you push it by hand if possible (you may need someone to assist you to see if this brings the lights on reliably, or the use of a mirror or wall to see the reflection). If the lights come on like that then you know it must need either adjusting in some way to operate correctly If not then either the switch is at fault (it doesn't work) or its looking like a wiring issue to do with that switch

No it's for the lights only. The brakes would still have to work by manual operation either way.

Same here. 55.9 locally but cheaper still if I end up in Birmingham. 43p there! Means now I'm getting 245 miles for just over £20 on a trip there

Ah not doing too badly then. Mines almost to 200k now

There is a problem with the controller circuitary corroding - this is on the motor (Seatkid has pointed towards this being my intermittent issue where the wipers won't stop, but i haven't got round to sorting it out due to fixing other more pressing faults taking what time i had to sort them out). Either way it looks like the motor changed around 1998 sometime from the brief googling i've done, so you may get away with the later one, or maybe not. What sort of milage is yours upto though to have worn out the motor? Also there is definietly 2 versions of wipers on the mk1 - they changed from 10/98 looking at microcat theres acutally 2 pictures of different arrangements. Not sure if the motor is the same without a later vin to lookup.

The correct one listed for your vin on Microcat is Finis 1022952 or p/n 95vw 17505 EA Googling the second number comes back with a few sites that suggest the motor you list is different - the one below for example http://www.tav-autoverwertung.de/shop/Front-wiper-motor-VW-7M0-955-113-C-Bosch-0-390-241-431-1-397-328-048-Ford-95VW-17505-EA But are you sure it isn't seized spindles first?

And if you want to confirm its faulty theres a good chance vcds will be saying brake light switch implausable signal. Though for the cost of the switch and the time factors you have involved I'd swap it to confirm.

From the FAQ section at the top of this forum http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8351-fitting-a-new-brake-light-switch/&do=findComment&comment=63453

Torque should work - it does on my older 2.0l petrol Galaxy. Are there any lights on your bluetooth adaptor?

Ignition has to be on for it to work. Best to connect the Bluetooth module first. Then turn ignition on. What are you using to actually read the codes? Phone app or laptop? And what software?

Its probabbly not actually any worse, its just that the slightly less than optimum values it would be working with are pushing the already poor performance to a worse level making it appear worse. I think your best bet will be to either wait till you get your diagnositc bits sorted out and see if that shows up any clues. Is there any hissing sounds inside the cabin area (down by the pedals and around the heater controls specifically) or from the brake servo area? The main vacuum line to the servo is known to split at the end resulting in a vacuum leak, this may be bad enough to cause a stall. Though if its only at idle or low throttle then the idle control valve may be the issue as mentioned above - it may be worth trying to clean it and see if you get any improvement. What plugs do you have (make and model) and have you tried the leads if it has them (I find the leads on the 2.0 more problematic than any other part, though this is mainly down to the awkward position of the plugs which are different on the 2.3 anyway)

Any idea which value it failed on? It might also be worth pulling the air filter box apart and checking there isn't anything in there that shouldn't be. A carrier bag for example!

I guessed as much, Given the info above someone else should be able to confirm for sure, but based on whats been said (usually with vehicles with a DMF) I'd expect it to be a clutched pulley.

I do wonder if your post about the anti roll bar that your missing has something to do with the problems your having?

Your profile says its a tdi it may help to give an indication of what year etc the one your asking about is, as some do and others don't. The diesel is more likely to have a clutched one though. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/26791-squealing-noise-alternator/?hl=pulley You may have more luck posting in the tech board than the questions one (this one doesn't get as many visitors!)

The other possibility i can think of that may be temperature related is the exhaust sensor. It will default with the maf disconnected (it sees it isn't there so uses a substitute map which isn't ideal but should allow it to run, albeit not at best efficiency). It may not really be the temperature causing it, hard to tell for sure hence the suggestion of checking fault codes (better to do that now than guessing in the dark as such!) Sparks done last year but how many miles have you done since? You will have a stored code for the maf when you read the codes (or at least should have) - your best bet is going to be do a code scan, save or write down what codes have been generated, and then clear the codes and see what comes back

Its one of these i've got http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HHOBD-ELM327-Car-Bluetooth-OBD2-Auto-CAN-BUS-Scanner-Tool-Android-UK-SELLER-/171702768776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27fa485488 and this I use on the phone (actually the pro version but similar) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree if yours is the bluetooth version it should be fine with a phone or laptop/Tablet with bluetooth, usb one will need something pc based within reach of the car. Diagnostic port is under the ashtray btw incase you haven't already discovered it. Final question - you mention swapping the coil pack, have you tried swapping the other coil pack? (I'd assume you have - I think the 2.3 has 2 seperate ones directly mounted onto the plugs firing 2 from each- I don't know as mine is the 2.0 and that uses leads and remote coil packs) and how old are the spark plugs?

Elm 327 should be fine. Anything that does obd2 should work for the engine. Personally I use a Bluetooth adapter and the torque app.

Try the maf (sensor just after the air filter). It should be possible to unplug it and try driving it like that (should default to set values when you do this). If its noticably better like that then the maf isn't working properly. It may be worth putting an obd2 code reader on it to see if any errors are detected, though theres a fairly good chance it won't find anything helpful. Not sure if you will be able to see any live data on the 2.3 engine which may point towards a dodgy sensor.

The usual cause of odd electrical problems which don't have an obvious cause is broken wires in the door gaiters. Especially the one for the boot. I'd suggest checking that first. Don't know on the coils but guess you will be finding out. The front ones can be troublesome due to the top nut.

If the ignition switch is working as it should it doesn't cut power to the radio until you actually remove the key from the ignition (not just turn it to 0). Which i only found out when i started having issues with the radio (which was a faulty ignition switch) and replaced the switch after finding turning the key back from 2 slightly stopped the issue (worn out switch it seems). No idea on the coil springs though they don't look too difficult as they aren't surrounding the strut? Are you sure they are actually broken and its not drop links required? (coil springs rarely go on these, Drop links seem a common problem though)

beware of the j&r driveshafts - I've had a pair on a Mondeo that one of has failed in under 20k and the other isn't much better. It also turned out the vibration i had put down to warped brake discs was actually the o/s driveshaft from them. Theres less to go wrong with the intermediate shaft so probably worth a shot i guess. My issue in this thread was the beginning of the clutch failing rather than driveshaft related (think it was dragging hence didn't go into gear fully), Resolved with clutch and csc replacement.

If its any help the haynes manual only lists 1 size clutch - 228mm for petrol and diesel engines, and doesn't mention any different for engine codes or otherwise. It may come down to removing it and measuring/comparing to check its right. I don't know if it will fit or not sorry, maybe someone else can help??