BrianH

When you get chance work out what you can't see and will compare to mine, Theres only a few modules on mine from what I remember, but then being an Apsen there isn't a lot on it to start with anyway (the MOT tester spent a good couple of minutes trying to check the ABS light was working when I last took it, and was surprised to see it didn't even have ABS on mine)

The thermostat you've installed - where is it? Some models have the thermostat in the pipe and an empty housing on the end of the block. The alternative location is halfway along the hose that feeds the housing. Possible this one is stuck if you have it?

Its not as simple as it having a second heater has more gas - if you have the version with vents in the roof the aircon should work in the back and use the higher figure on the sticker, otherwise it should use the lower one. The one without roof vents does not provide air conditioning via the rear heater/fan, front only.

Right it seems not that simple as it turns out. I've got two of these adaptors (brought second one to keep in the other car). The first one i brought works fine on Any of the fords I've tried. The second one appears identical but fails to find the car - i'd suspect this is the same protocol issue mentioned above. Only real solution you have is to find one that definitely works on that - Ask the seller before buying is what I'd suggest to confirm it will work with J1850_PWM.

its possible that the switch isolates both poles not just one (IE 12v feed and ground as such). Don't know for sure though

And the catch probably isn't steel, so I'd agree that welding probably not an option - you might get some luck with chemical metal though? Diagram of it here - you can zoom into the diagram for a better look http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24692&s_id_model=99&s_code_image=G002103602

Yes in a word, you want something like an elm 327 cable for the engine and the cable you've got for selected other bits - airbags being one of them, not sure if A/C will speak to vcds or not (mine doesn't work and I've not tried it to tell) Personally i've found a combination of one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HHOBD-ELM327-Car-Bluetooth-OBD2-Auto-CAN-BUS-Scanner-Tool-Android-UK-SELLER-/171702768776?hash=item27fa485488 With an android phone and the torque app > https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree&hl=en_GBworks quite well, As others have noted it needs to support the J1850_PWM protocol which others have pointed towards being an issue (the hhobd one is the exact one i've got and certainly works on my older 2.0l one). Idle control valve makes more sense - its in the air intake so is at risk of picking up gunge via the crankcase breather. Don't know if there is a sensor on the throttle or not, Haven't seen a mk2 that closely. Don't know on the rear catch - would hazard a guess that one side comes off to allow you to unbolt it, but haven't tried this to confirm. Probably the inside if one does come off.

Glad to hear it, just done the MOT on mine today as well!

You will be able to look at the engine with that one. You need a vag com cable for vcds on the Ford units. That will allow connection to the rest of the units except the engine

It's not something regularly complained about with the broken catch. You may be able to sort it without removing the window glass though. There is a few relays behind the main fusebox. Think the mk2 has a second fusebox as well near the expansion bottle. Not sure what one does the ac but there are some diagrams of the relays on here

I'd have done the same at that price

Sounds like you have the right pulley, but may be missing other bits. I remember doing the same as described above (swapping the bolt over to the new pulley). Your going to either need a new tensioner, or take a trip to the scrapyard and try to salvage the bits you require from another one. The good news is they are a common ford design so one off another should fit (you can take your pulley along to check you get the right bits)

£900 sounds a bit too cheap to replace a DMF - It might be enough to cover a single mass flywheel conversion, but the general theme on here seems to be that it isn't a good idea on these to fix the problem in that manner. It sounds like it could be the release bearing to me, but without taking it apart you can't be sure. Depends how much he wanted for it really - It sounds to me that hes trying to get rid of it before it requires expensive attention so think you were probably wise to steer clear

Sounds like good news - which side is the broken catch? (hopefully passenger side as it should be easier to fix - the aerial is on the other side window). Have a check as you turn the wheel the other thing that can happen is problems with the top mounting on the strut - again its really a case of taking the wheel off and prodding about to identify where the problem is. The main thing to cause strange noises on the Galaxy are the drop links, not seen much reported about engine mounts, but you can see it and we can't so its going to be a case of having a look and prod about to tell for sure. Does the exhaust leak or appear like its going to fall off? Mine got to the point where I had to replace all except the mainfold as it was looking very rough and with holes in the cat and downpipe, with both backboxes rather rotten as well, but it was a bit older than yours before it was that bad (did it about a year ago now) Oh and the galaxy aircon not working is nothing too unusual - snapped pipes aren't uncommon, though yours sounds more like an electrical issue - do you get the light coming on to indicate its been switched on even?

And its Viperclive on LPG not Sparky Paul. Found the thread where it came up eventually.

Its the 2.0 i've got - the other poster has the 2.3. The 2.0 is gutless, but its gutless on petrol as well (well its not, but it struggles with the weight of the galaxy somewhat, whereas the 2.3 to me sounds the better bet). With proper mapping its not an issue as far as i've seen. Bear in mind that at 200k the engine is far from its original performance anyway! The blades on the mk1 are 11.5mm not the more normal 9mm fitting, are these flat blades or the more conventional type?

I've clocked up nearly 200k on my 2.0 on lpg since 70k - these engines are well suited to lpg due to not having the soft valve seats most modern petrol engines have, so don't require valve lube either (at least the 2.0 doesn't, fairly sure the 2.3 same applies). Biggest issue i find with lpg is the lack of range you get from it due to the lack of space for the tank - mine is in place of the spare wheel. I get 245 miles out of a fill which coses between £20 and £26 depending where i fill up (some areas are cheaper - 43p a litre round Birmingham if you don't mind filling up at the depots the taxis use, more locally to me theres 4 garages doing it between 54.9p and 65.9p a litre, Given the cheapest i can find petrol is around £1.12 a litre its a significant saving for me You lose some mpg over the petrol one, but I still find I can get around 5 miles per litre or approx 9-10p a mile at the cheaper end of the prices). Electric cars suit a very select group of people - most of whom could do without a car in the first place! They just aren't practical for anyone without a proper driveway or garage, and just don't have the range either, LPG on the other hand if you run out you have petrol to fall back onto, or can refill in a few minutes at the local station. Though i'd advise checking out the local prices/availability before you consider it. It works well for me as i do a lot of miles in different areas and can usually find it fairly easily. www.filllpg.co.uk is a handy site to check if you want to get an idea of what is available in your local area. Re the temp side - the combustion temp is slightly higher, but its not by much (around 30 degrees centigrade - which on 800 degrees isn't significant - a cooling system in good order shouldn't have any problems coping with it). The other main problem is finding a converter who actually takes care in the job rather than doing a poor quality job - theres a few about, but they tend to be undercut by the less professional installers. Its far more popular in Europe than here where it never really took off (mostly due to a lack of understanding by people who don't want anything to do with it as they don't understand it and will blame it for anything that goes wrong with a vehicle fitted with it, and a love for filthy polluting oil burners) At least one of the other regular posters on here is on lpg - I think it may be Sparky Paul but can't remember for sure and the forum search for LPG isn't allowed as its too short! You need to get it working properly first though - the coil pack sounds suspect to me, Possibly stressed by the duff spark plugs you've already discovered! Re your points on the wipers - is this the blades your talking about? or the arms?

I believe that is the case yes. Early ones had it under the passenger seat where it learns how not to swim hence all the problems with them, they are elsewhere on later ones (later being about halfway though the mk1 life - not entirely sure where offhand but not under the seat). Only way to tell for sure is to rule out one part or another - you've checked as much as your able to of the wiring (short of testing with a multimeter from end to end, which isn't the easiest of tasks) So i'd be replacing the lock motor if it was me. Only way to rule it out is to swap the electrical connectors over to a known good unit and see if the problem stops (this could be done without removing the current motor provided you operate the catch to the shut position with a screwdriver first) The global window closing not working till you repaired the cables isn't a surpise - the boot wires being broken/shorting could be the cause of this anyway since it operates from that one as well. Final thing - have you replaced the cables or just rejoined them? Rejoining them as they are won't last long!

I think your diagnosis of the passenger side lock motor sounds likly. It could be a broken wire in that door if you haven't already checked, but the lock motor itself sounds suspect to me (as if your turning the key or moving the handle the motor isn't being used)

You would get better luck in the mk3 part of the forum as the mk1/2 is a completely different vehicle! If the year is correct that is of course. I'd advise running it back into the dealer you brought it from if it is a 2014 model and telling them to fix it though (after checking for anything thats been dropped in there by someone first!) Could a mod move this please?

if you pull apart the old relay if you still have it you may be able to see the fault - the joints go dry (will appear broken apart/cracked or crazed). It will be the relay as that is a common fault on the Galaxies anyway.

Yes I can confirm your car 130bhp diesel has an alternator fitted with a one way clutch. The reason it has one? PD equipped vw diesels have injectors that have exteremly short injection times at idle. Therefore the combustion process at idle speeds is short and very sharp. They also have light flywheels so that they can idle acceptably at low speeds. This means at idle speeds, the rotational speed of the crank is not constant but pulses up and down with each injector pulse. To protect the transmission from this high vibration level, they fit a DMF (dual mass flywheel) which uses springs and a secondary mass to smooth the output. The alternator is at the other end of the crank, which also has a ragged spped profile at idle. Because the alternator rotor is high inertial mass, they put a one way clutch on the pulley to protect the belt drive which would otherwise tug back and forth meaning short life and jumping and squealing. Your one way pulley is seized (its easy to check but you have to remove the belt to check it), and its a very common failure. You can get replacement clutched pulleys (~£50 + labour IIRC), but they require special tools and some grunt to get it off the alternator shaft. Its quicker and easier to fit a new alternator but then again thats a fair bit more cash. If you relatively handy to tackle yourself theres an add in the classified section selling the pulley and tool at the moment.

The HHOBD one definitely works for reading codes if thats the one you mean you have got. Whats the exact wording of the message?

You need to pair it as the first step. If you have got that far then you will need to select the right adapter in torque. In the settings you have adapter settings. Under that obd adapter settings then choose obd adapter. Make sure it's set to the one your using now and try again. Will need to switch ignition on to have any chance of connection. Best to plug adapter in first. Fire up torque. Then switch ignition on and try to connect after.

I thought that was what you were getting at, the above reply is still valid that being the case though, start looking at the resistor pack.