BrianH

Check the bulb is installed correctly first. It's possible to upset the alignment by not having it in the tabs properly

sounds like your looking in the right place, it also holds the wheel brace. Trolley jack generally better anyway especially if its on less than ideal surfaces.

The jack should be behind the righthand door in the rear luggage area near the fuel filler area, providing its been put back of course!

If the joint is clicking or has movement replacing it would be the obvious course to take. If its not then your probably better keeping the original one with a new boot as they tend to last better than the aftermarket ones anyway, provided the grease is kept in them and the dirt kept out of the joint (if you've had the cv boot split open and can see the grease is contaminated then probably better to replace it). Alternatively if your not sure then get a new joint and take the shaft out and see what its like as its easier to tell once you've removed the shaft from the car.

Possible some effect on emissions would depend a lot on the driving you do thought

Doesn't sound too bad overall - fair bit of work done there for the money. The heater only aids in the sensor response time anyway, hence why I'd asked why you were looking at it just incase you were thinking it was causing problems with more noticeable symptoms.

is there a single cat on the v6 or two? If its one then your setup makes sense as the second one wouldn't be needed anyway. On the EML light as best I can tell no it won't - I've looked in the testers manual and cannot find mention of it - closest i could find from an official source is as follows https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/common-mistakes-made-by-mot-testers/ https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/common-mistakes-made-by-mot-testers/#comment-5035 Incidentally the signature thing - I think you have to be logged into the forum to see it. Either that or you can't see your own.

Sounds sensible at least - the heaters won't make a noticable difference most of the time anyway, just when the car is warming up mainly. I'd suspect from the codes that there is more than one of each sensor on the v6 - don't know for sure, but someone here should be able to advise if you find otherwise.

With the bulb aim it can be that the bulb isn't in its holder properly as well - commonly done even by the people you pay to fit them! Doesn't sound too bad really its all minor stuff and fairly cheap, The foglamp is possible to fit one on the other side (you need a holder and bulb, wires were already there on mine - I only fitted it as I had the rear light bar off to replace it due to a hole in it thanks to previous owner and the spare bulb holder from the replacement unit) but you can always show the tester the blanked off one if he says the n/s one has to work The battery clamp may need some playing with to make it fit better if your not on the original size battery - assuming its actually there in the first place that is.

Glad to hear you've got it sorted, The load rating is more critical as well (the 97 part in your new ones - too low and the tyres flex too much, which makes the handling somewhat more bouncy than it should be - I was somewhat dubious when I'd taken it to get wheel alignment adjusted but was amazed how much of an improvement it made)

The short won't be down to the fuse - start with disconnecting the sensor, would suspect the heater side of it has shorted out (code should change to open circuit instead for that one - if it does then it would suggest to me the sensor is the source of your fault there). Your best bet on the other sensor will be to find which one it is (will be the one before the cat on whichever one is bank 1) - again disconnect it and test with multimeter, hopefully someone can indicate which ones of the connectors are which circuit (usually theres 2 wires same colour, these should be the heater circuit). Assuming the v6 has both sensors on both banks you have a known good one to test of each type to compare to. I don't know which bank is which physically, but if you disconnect one of the sensors and rescan you should be able to work out which one is which. Out of interest is there a noticeable fault your trying to cure and if so what is it?

More likely the pre cat sensor that's at fault than the post. Fault code should tell you which one. Can't look at the minute for you.

It's intergrated into the sensor. Not particularly cheap. They vary from About £50 upwards.

Think you will find that box is to do with the cooling fans as far as I know. I'd suspect the issue you have is a dead lambda sensor heater - you should be able to test this with a multimeter on a resistance test to tell for sure. You can use it to test your suspect fuse at the same time.

Your profile says its a mk2 but doesn't say what engine etc, you also don't say which pipe you want? http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_unit&s_id_grp=4397&s_id_model=99theres a load of parts diagrams here, they might help. If you can find what looks like the right pipe there it can be tied down to a particular one using the ford microcat disc by your vin number if you have more than one option, Otherwise post back with your vehicle details and which one you actually require and someone may be able to help.

Would sound like possibly your rubber mat is not the right thickness and its causing the glass to catch on the runner to me. Can you find anything thinner of the same material (tyre inner tube for example may work?)

Oh and the size though as you've noticed is different. Though as long as its on same axle it should be ok/legal. Not a good idea though!

The fronts are wrong. It's the load rating as you've noticed. Correct sizes are inside the fuel filler flap. I found the lower load rating has a noticeable difference to handling on the 2.0 so hardly surprising that your finding issues.

Probably best - hopefully doing it again will flush out any crud still in there - see if you can get a look at whats drained out when you get it done - new ATF is usually translucent red in colour.

theres some instructions on changing the fluid in the faq section - basically whats been said already, but its worth having a check of the level and seeing what the fluid looks/smells like - any signs of burning or gloop then you need to sort that out (change fluid). Trouble is when your changing the fluid you won't get it all to come out - the torque converter keeps some in the system so it takes a few attempts to flush out sufficient fluid. Its rare anyone changes the filter - i think its a metal mesh so shouldn't be an issue (if its out would make sense to clean it off) but you should be able to drain the fluid without removing the sump. You can also scan the gearbox using vcds since its a vw box - this may indicate a failure of some sort that you can have a look for on here. Vag-com lead off ebay and vcds lite is enough to do what you require.

This is worth a read if you haven't already discovered it http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8351-fitting-a-new-brake-light-switch/&do=findComment&comment=63453 This possibly relevant as well http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/27038-help-pre-holiday-problem/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Blight+%2Bswitch The second one is the reason i'd suggested starting the engine and pushing pedal down as that seemed to work for him, although the auto may be different?

I think you can do it by pushing the pedal down. You might need to start the engine to gain the vacuum assist to do it. The different sensors do exist. There's some info elsewhere on here I think the green one is an improvement on the black one. What's your symptoms for thinking it's at fault? Flashing glow plug light is the usual fault. If the lights aren't coming on once you've swapped it check the wires in rear hatch door gaiter.

And no access on mk1 isn't particularly difficult either. Just the 1 lower dash cover to remove and then the screws and clips holding the fusebox in place

On the part number side I found another number on the actual relay. I don't remember it having letters in it though. At worst you might have to remove the fusebox to identify it and then try it. As Paul has said the joints failure is only just visible so may not be immediately obvious. Will look like its crazed over the surface.

oh and use heat shrink over the joints not tape - its a far neater job that way, and should last longer.