BrianH

Further thought having checked your profile i see you have an auto - do the brake lights work correctly (get someone to check they come on when pressing the pedal). If not it may be a failed brake pedal switch, or could also be the inhibitor on the gearbox (stops you starting it when its not in park or neutral)

Sounds like its not seeing the pats chip - Theres a relay that commonly fails, but this will usually crank and fail to start. The way its starting and dying suggests what would be expected with the immobiliser not working correctly to me - IE you have not had the chip programmed to the car correctly. If you look at the led on the drivers door does it flash rapidly when trying to start with the key? This is linked to the immobiliser, rapid flashing suggests its not seeing the key, When you say the ignition coil do you mean the coil pack (in the engine bay area) or the aerial coil thats round the keyhole on the steering column? It might be worth reading up on relay 30 issues, but it would be some strange coincidence knowing the key came apart before this happened if it was to have failed - Replacements can be brought from GSF using the part number on the relay once you get it out, or if you know someone with a soldering iron they should be able to resolder it for you.

To change the cv boots you'd need to disassemble the balljoint so it would make sense to do both at the same time. It should work out lower overall, but they may have quoted them assuming they are doing them together. With the CV boot job its mostly labour involved, cost of the parts is fairly low, Balljoint is a bit more but again is mostly labour. The prices sound fairly reasonable to me if you don't want to get your hands dirty doing it. (also both garages seem to be in the same price range for the jobs so neither sounds particularly unreasonable)

If your anywhere near to Aylesbury or Thame then ASM are bound to be able to able to supply them even if as part of a larger assembly for used bits. ECP parts are usually OK but obviously they have not got this bit right. Have you spoken to them about it - I've had a couple of damaged bits they have replaced before without a problem (Galaxy air filter which was misshapen being one of these) You can try eBay obviously, though if your after original parts theres a few companies who will send to you - http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ I've used for bits, as long as you can find a part number for the part in question its easy to look if they have them on stock. Otherwise you might be looking at either trawling round scrapyards to find them or trying to find something similar enough to do the job.

To test the maf it really needs to be under load when your checking - But without something known to compare it to you can't tell if its underreading (the calibration point above). You might have better luck by disconnecting it - if theres a noticable improvement with it disconnected (this may well bring the MIL on, but that can be cleared after) then theres a good chance its not working as well as it should do, and in doing so is causing the engine to be underfuelled. If its coated in anything then it will underread to some degree and cause exactly the problems your finding. The other factor that might help is an indication of the milage on the engine?

Have a close look at the main radiator - On an Auto Escort I had the transmission fluid was run through one side of the radiator, if your not seeing oil being lost from the engine its probabbly coming out of the gearbox. It might be an idea to check the level/state of the gearbox fluid as well (if theres signs of water in there you know there must be a leak between the two)

Does anyone still receive the email notifications - I can't tick the box in my account settings for email no matter what i do, I'm just wondering if its just me or something on the forum software has changed (I used to receive them previously, but haven't been able to select them in months now).

You might get better luck with one of the scrapyards where you can walk in and remove the bits yourself. I've found they tend to keep older stuff around for longer. Theres still a number of mk1s about on the roads though most will be getting somewhat tired now. Do you need the whole thing or just part of it?

try this http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24525&s_id_model=98&s_code_image=G001588101 If its the lefthand side one then theres 2 numbers so you may need to try removing it and checking for its characteristics (number of pins or colour can usually identify it). lefthand should be the temp gauge sensor either 1097757 1669949 middle is the ecu temp sensor 1669965 Righthand one is the fan switch 7210733

It might be worth trying to exercise the tensioner a bit (remove the belt from it and move it back and forth as far as it goes), If the tensioner appears to hold it may be that its got stuck previously and allowed the belt to slip - if this happens the belt can get a bit glazed in places so will then slip easier than it should as well.

What tyres are fitted - size and load rating. If they aren't XL load rated tyres you can end up with all sorts of odd issues. If you check whats fitted then enter your reg into blackcircles.com it will show you what should be fitted, assuming standard wheels are being used.

Sounds like the lock motor to me - possible its stripped a part internally hence it moves but nothing happening. You should be able to find a replacement unit and just swap it over, you will need to remove the outer handle first. If you get a replacement unit then before stripping it out completely if you operate the catch with a screwdriver to latch it and then connect it to the cables for your existing lock you should be able to see if it operates how you expect it to, proving if that is the faulty bit. Broken wires would normally result in no noise from the lock area. The locks are handed (you need one from the same door as the one you have the fault with on the same side of the car)

pictures might help - the spare wheel carrier is one of the weak points on the Galaxy - it may be a previous repair or attempt to make a carrier from something else fit. Is the spare wheel actually inside the carrier - and does it appear to work?

I'd give a bit of consideration to where your putting the joints - it might be more successful to make a hole through the connector (drill carefully through some of the empty space) and run wires so the joints are away from the moving parts (one join in the door itself, the other inside the car, and make sure theres enough flex to allow cable to move without moving the inside joint about). It would certainly be cheaper as it would only really be the time and wire if you haven't already got it. The drivers door isn't usually as much of a problem as the boot, as it doesn't move through as much of a angle from open to closed. I'd guess your trying to solder very close to the pin end?

I replaced all the wires in the boot door loom a couple of years ago - All the thin ones have been fine (used trailer wire for those). The thicker ones still broke (given away when the dash backlight came on when pressing brake pedal). I've not got round to repairing that properly as yet, its currently got a terminal block over the broken bit. If its just bare wires it should be fine - theres a few secondhand looms on ebay if its the boot loom. One thing to be aware of is that the Some items swap sides - This shouldn't be an issue on a mk1, I don't know if the mk2 has 2 reversing lights/foglights or if its like some other models (my Focus only has 1 of each, and when i replaced the boot due to a lorry running into the back of me and putting the back windscreen through in the process, found replacement boot in the right colour on eBay - collected it, fitted it using the fitted loom and discovered later that the reversing light came on when the foglight should do, and vice versa). Either way if its a generic repair kit then it should be ok as you will be aware whats connected to where before you start.

Sounds like the bad crimp issue on a mk2 where the fusebox goes into meltdown- but if yours is really an 09 vehicle its a MK3 - I'd put a post in the MK3 tech section if I were you, its likely to get missed here (mk3 is obviously not the same vehicle at all so problem not likely to be the same)

Its possible you've been sold the wrong part I'd suspect then - Its not unusual to see parts particually if they are on eBay listed as fitting the Galaxy when they don't but do fit other fords. Have a look inside the boot gaiter - it would be surprising if there isn't at least 1 broken wire there if you haven't looked at it recently.

Have a look though this http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24047-howto-2003-ford-galaxy-indicator-relay-replacement/&do=findComment&comment=171429 It would help if you give the model you've got (Model/year and engine type should be enough). If its really a mk1/2 (pre 2006 if its a Galaxy rather than Sharan or Alhambra) then broken wires in the door gaiters are the cause of a lot of electrical issues.

I think you want VAG tacho for that - Which is with that cable posted above. Thats what I've used on that golf to get the cluster coded. I'd have a look for the instructions for what you want to do though first to check if VAG-Tacho is the right software for it.

If its just the cable your after they can be found on ebay fairly cheaply - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-TACHO-3-01-Opel-Immo-USB-COM-install-guide-provided-quality-cable-/301212888508 for example, several others on there as well. I've got one which I used to replace the cluster on a golf - The cable there is needed as the cluster is linked to the immobiliser and prevents starting the car unless its coded to match. Given the dates on the original posts i'd suspect things have moved on somewhat.

VCDS works on quite a bunch of vehicles - Lots of Seats as well as your Polo and other VW vehicles from the appropriate years. Good to hear what the eventual problem (or problems as it was here) was - it helps others out too. Sounds like you've got a mechanic to keep in touch with as well if hes figured that out. Sometimes paying works out better than guessing. Trouble is finding who to pay - My mates work van had an auto electrician out to fix a non-working light cluster (hes fine with mechanical stuff, but electronics he just doesn't appear to get!) . £70 later and it still wasn't working. I had a look and found a burnt off pin in the connector - not something that took particularly long to find. Think it took about half an hour to fix in all and it now works. So it looks like £70 wasted there....

Might be a bit late, but are you sure this isn't a mk 1 or 2 your dealing with. Both suffer with a joint in the pipework coming apart - its an easy fix once you get the trim off just a case of rejoining the pipe back together (a couple of fuel line hose clips works, though various other methods can be used to stop it separating again. Even if it is a mk3 then it should be fairly easy to fix once you get to the leak - it will be a case of removing some of the trim to access it, then repairing wherever its leaking from (a replacement piece of washer pipe of the right size should fit over the existing pipe, or you may be able to get a joiner between them if its damaged rather than come apart?)

If you look on eurocarparts they appear to be the same part number - 133441811. The left and right hand ones are different though.

Hopefully you found that out before replacing the evaporator?

IF you've got the replacement genuine hose (which it sounds like you have) then it should be more obvious how you can remove the barbed bit from where its inserted into? They usually just prise out if you can get a flat blade under the side of it (wide screwdriver for instance). The issue tends to be damaging the rubber insert in the process.