BrianH

You might be down to removing the dash again, though at least you know how it comes out now having done it once before. Though the break could well be elsewhere, the airbag module is under the dash as far as i know (never had to do anything with it other than reset it after replacing broken clock spring on mine). I'd try pulling fuses out firstly as its simple to do so, but you need a way to test the communications to see if your even looking in the right area, so i don't see a way of getting round that without getting hold of a vcds cable. > this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-KKL-VAG-COM-Cable-409-1-ODB-II-ODB2-Auto-Diagnostic-VW-Audi-Skoda-Tool-UK-/for example is sufficient for what you need, and will let you reset the airbag light once you have got the communications issue sorted as well.

One thought occurs about the dash being out. On mine there's a bunch of wires that goto a ground point just above the fusebox. Are they still tight and making contact?

Not good. I'd suspect lambda sensor though is reason your running rich. It might be worth getting a multimeter on it to see what voltage is coming out of it. Could also be wiring to it though. Otherwise your down to tracing wiring diagrams and relying on them being right. On the software side the price means nothing if it's not the right tool for the job. For the sake of the price of a vcds cable it will save you with the first use of it. Plus not having to rely on others to see if you can sort the issue. If it is really down to what he's highlighted then it may help pulling fuses to isolate it somewhat though no guarantee that will work. But suspect it's going to be down to something obscure if he hasn't already found it.

Given that its killed the first cat did you fit a lambda sensor when the replacement was fitted? I don't think the stereo will be relevent as its generally a CAN bus issue, which the Galaxy doesn't have AFAIK. What are they trying to connect to the central locking etc with - VCDS should work, a generic scanner probably not (same applies for ford scanners - engine will probably come up, very little else will AFAIK). If you don't have vcds then you can obtain a suitable lead from ebay to test for yourself and download vcds lite (suitable lead can be had for less than £10) I'd think the sensor is more likely than an ignition fault given it happens when warm, though coil packs can play up when warm and be ok when cold so its a possibility.

Ah well you found it at least - Its a galaxy, always suspect the wires!

The known normal issue with some VW based cars is down to aftermarket stereos (or more specifically VW not wiring a standard connector as a standard connector). Don't think it effects the galaxy but it may do. Diagnosis should be easy - remove the stereo and try again. Other places for broken wires typically the door gaiters including the boot, and the passenger side footwell (usually down to leaking rear washer pipe corroding wires at the joint). Reasonably easy to access to check, remove the door surround trim and pull carpet back.

I do know its possible to attach another regulator to the wiring without actually installing it - This is how I managed to prove my non-working drivers motor was down to something else (the wires in the end). I can't see why the motor would effect the others though.

Check the wires in the gaiter before you go too much further. The regulator and motor all came out in one from when I had issues with mine. You must have the door card off already if you've disconnected it. If you can see the bolts they hold the glass in place it should be fairly easy. Think from memory there's 4 bolts holding the rest in place

try the parts diagram here > http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/SHA/1999/162/49/1884783/ You may need to register to see the images though. That should give you the part number (pretend its a sharan its the same engine!)

take it off and have a proper look - your looking for signs of burning. Which bits are green (if its the wire then the wire inside the insulation maybe a lot worse than you think - take it off and have a proper look at it, while your there clean it off). Theres a common issue on some of the mk2's with a poor crimp on the end of those connections causing it to overheat and fail - Theres fix info in the faq i think, put simply its a case of soldering the joint and replacing any damaged wires/connectors/fusebox as needed.

Also further thought - I don't know where your parking sensor is, but if its close to the controls for the heater (above the radio) its possible someone has had it apart and not got everything back in properly - it may be worth taking out the radio and having a feel around to see if anything is loose there which should be plugged in, Could be the cause for both heater and sensor issues, locking would be the wires as pointed to above first.

Whats already been said on the locks - But with the front fan do you hear anything on any fan speeds at all, or does it stay silent. If its staying silent its possible the motor has packed up, or the switch, the motor more likly out of the two, You can get to it by removing the glovebox (i've currently got mine in pieces replacing the leaking heater matrix). Its behind the lower box, with the heater resistor pack nearby - if it works on some speeds but not others then the resistor pack is a good bet. If its making noise then it won't be the motor. Other possibility with excessive misting is that you have a leak - does the rear screen washer work?

The fusebox meltdown issue effects the instrument cluster so possibly yes. Have a look at the underbonnet fusebox for signs of melting/burning. Any other faults you've seen appearing?

This maybe > http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,28965.0.html Thats a brilliant description though Greggers!

I think your saying your looking for a post you found yesterday, but can't find today about removing the air-con pulley and putting a shorter belt on. I've looked and can't find it either, but if you've already seen it you should be able to find it using the history in your browser? (ctrl-h on keyboard if your using windows?)

Its a MK3 you have got so hopefully someone will move this to the right forum as the mk1/mk2 is a completely different car so its unlikely to find an answer here. I'm surprised you can't see where its ending up given the amount though - It might be worth trying a pressure test on the system to see if you can find it while stationary if they haven't done so already. The other possibility that comes to mind is a crack in the head or engine block thats opening up when it gets hot, though I'd expect you to be seeing this in the oil (mayonnaise like spots/level going up etc) as the water has to end up somewhere if thats the case. Does the exhaust look normal?

This should help https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=3E009701EC3E0D28!34624&authkey=!AErcqgkTZo6LuBk&v=3&ithint=photo%2cpng Can match to vin if you pm your vin over if you need, though as far as i can tell there is only 1 number for the manual gearboxes.

Either buy yourself a vcds cable or borrow one, and scan the abs module with VCDS lite. The cables can be had off ebay for a few pounds, vcds lite is free. That will tell you why the abs light is coming on and give you somewhere to start. A Vag-com cable will work - this for example > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-Cable-KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD2-II-OBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS-/161717467805

The light above the temp gauge is to show low coolant level not temperature (its too low) - theres a sensor in the expansion tank, it sounds like its become stuck to me or the expansion tank has emptied itself out. Or the wires leading to it aren't correct (unplugged or broken in some way). The handbrake light could be down to a few things - Assuming that it isn't down to a lack of brake fluid of course! If the clutch is leaking fluid this can be the cause as its a shared reservoir. Whats the fluid level sitting at? Given that it only comes on when driving I'd suspect its down to low fluid, but could be a dodgy sensor. The fuel gauge and speedo may be connected - theres some damping involved so that you don't get slosh moving the gauge all the time, if the car doesn't detect it moving then it won't apply the damping (you can see this in reverse if you start the car when its on a slope with 1/4 tank left or less - depending which way mine is facing like that it can move anywhere from half to empty on my mates drive!) Speedo in mine is a sensor as theres no cable going to the speedo, would start looking at the sensor (is it plugged in?) I've never had to investigate mine so can't advise where its picked up from. Also given you have other issues with the cluster, it may be best to start by removing the cluster as suggested above, checking the connectors and reseating them to see if it helps. None of that will help with the oil issues though - if water or diesel is getting into the oil you should see the level going up so keep an eye on it?

You can get bits loose inside the hose that move but can't get out - as paul says it isn't worth messing about with it. Failing all else if your still getting the abs light on you should be able to use vcds to have a look at why its coming on, which should narrow down the fault just in case it isn't what you think causing it to come on.

A lot of the relays in the petrol ones are VW badged as well - certainly the relay 30 in mine is.

I've had the same thing happen on an old Escort i had - again front ns flexi hose swapped and problem disappeared after that. If you get it happen again opening the bleed valve should allow you to release the pressure, this will show that the caliper is ok. Only other thing that might cause it is a failure of the abs unit, but this is not usually something that fails, I'd try the hose first before anything else.

Yep don't apply "common sense" and assume that the boot one isn't connected to it being a separate part of the car - others have learnt that mistake eventually!

Check your brake lights work - if not either theres a failed switch or broken wiring. The brake light switch needs to work to unlock the gear selector (as you should have your foot on the brake pedal when doing so). Been seen a few times on here.

If the wires have broken it will be in the gaiter (the rubber boot between the door and car body) as that's the bit that moves. Wiring issues on the galaxy are common. Down to design and poor quality wires. Though it's possible you've got other issues