BrianH

Could be broken wires in any of the doors including the boot causing those symptoms, It sounds like the lock motor unit on the passenger door is faulty to me though. first step would be to check all the door gaiters for broken wires. If its still problematic after that I'd see if you can swap the front passenger side lock motor personally. The rear passenger may also be broken, or it may be the deadlocking playing up due to possible broken wires (they cause all sorts of havoc) If you don't have a remote locking key then its relatively easy to wire in a universal kit to give remote locking - this solves some of the issues (the crappy lock barrels with the paddle that sticks out the back and breaks off) but would need the doors operating properly first.

i think you will find that anything to do with the aircon Haynes fall back on the "take to your dealer/specialist aircon" rather than giving any real info. Its worth a try though.

It appears to be in the thermostat housing - http://www.oemepc.com/seat/part_single/catalog/se/markt/E/modell/AL/year/2004/drive_standart/407/hg_ug/121/subcategory/121055/part_id/1397398/lang/e#sec_17

I've seen the results of using the ones your supposed to put in the tank directly in the filler (the wynns one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wynns-51668-Injector-Cleaner-Diesel/dp/B005D0ZANO ) and thats cleared more than you'd expect it to, same sort of symptoms as you describe and excessive smoking. Obviously its your decision to not follow the instructions but its been ok where i've seen it done. In his case a tank of v-power diesel was also put into it at the same time as an attempt to clean it up for mot - with that and a service it went from being off the scale on the emissions tester to a pass, did take a bit of running it and driving it to clear up though. New filter at the same time not a bad idea if its not been changed.

No idea if there is, though I'd have thought not. Theres two long tracks on the rear window at a fair height, so wouldn't expect a booster to be required. If you can get access to both ends you may be able to do some testing with the continuity settings. If you can prove it to be the aerial (easiest way suggested before - a spare cheap aerial should suffice for this) then I'd start there. otherwise you could be chasing a fault from the wrong place to start. I don't know what route the cable takes, but its got to get to the back of the car somehow, I'd guess its going up one of the A pillars and along the roofline - the logical route would be down the same side of the car as the aerial. Booster to be most effective should be close to the aerial end of the cable run - before the signal is reduced by the cable itself. But I don't know if there is one.

Easiest thing to do to rule the radio to be the cause is to swap the aerial - a cheap one will do for this, you don't have to install it fully, just plug it into the rear of the stereo and stick it as high as you can inside the car. If it works on that it must be an issue with the aerial of some description, if not its probabbly the stereo itself. I've had to resolder the middle pin connection on a van for someone I know (terrible vehicle that should never of been brought in the first place, almost nothing worked on it and it failed the MOT on 12 items AFTER he'd replaced the front brakes which were downright dangerous) - the pin was there, but when you looked at the wire it was almost like it had been cut by something, We had initially thought the poor reception was down to the missing aerial, but this was replaced with no improvement! 5 minutes playing with the soldering iron managed to get the two joined back together and its been fine since.

Condensors are generally a weak point - they are exposed to all the airborne stones etc by where they are located to do their job unfortunately.

Intermittent short circuit - Can be a complete pain to find. Its likely to either be a wire rubbing against something or worn through and able to move - it will intermittently touch something metal on the body or exhaust etc and cause it to blow. Or its water gathering somewhere where it isn't wanted to go - the aux heater plug as well as the heater itself is a good possibility for this, unplug it and see if its all corroded inside the plug, leave it unplugged and see if it keeps happening? Does the car start ok from cold? If it does then i'd doubt the glowplugs are on the same circuit, I'd also wonder if the listing you have is really correct for the fuse functions as well. Does your run on pump work when its blown? As you mention the heater that can cause issues as well, and might be the cause of the fuse blowing?

Did it happen after changing the driveshaft? Any idea what brand of driveshaft it is that you fitted?

It may well not do - But if its blowing the fuse none of the other stuff protected by said fuse will work either as you've probably already discovered. At least unplugging it should remove some of the possible causes of the fuse blowing. It might be an idea to protect the plug with something if your going to leave it like that as well (a plastic bag taped tightly around it should be enough in the short term). The other way of isolating the glow plugs is to find the relay for them and pull it out of the socket - When do you see the fuse blow is it as soon as the ignition is switched on or just at random points? I'd assume you don't have the additional battery referred to in the picture? It takes quite a lot to blow the larger rated fuses - the only time I've had any blow was due to drilling through the fusebox feeds by mistake (drill went through much quicker than i'd expected - should have put something there to protect the wires, unfortunately only thought of that after doing so), You have a short circuit somewhere. Its either going to be one of the two units or the wiring supplying power to them causing the problem.

Get some new solder onto them and keep it as a spare if i were you!

it also shows the AUX heater on the same circuit - that being the bane of a lot of diesel drivers galaxy related issues, might be a more likely cause than the glow plugs. Does your heater work? Might be worth disconnecting the plug to it and seeing if that helps?

A problem with the glow plugs would be possible - either if one of them has gone dead short circuit, or the wiring leading between them is damaged. Would suggest you disconnect the busbar and test each one with a multimeter, plus check the busbar for any damage (the busbar being the wire that connects between them). Your looking for any places its been rubbing against anything it shouldn't be (something metal - part of the engine or similar). A resistance check between the tip of the plug where the busbar connects and the engine itself should show up any dodgy ones - if one is found suggest you change the lot anyway, since you've already got it apart at that point.

Soulds like its lost its oil somewhere - the usual place would be where the CV joint comes out of the box. If its the same as the 5 speed there is a fill plug at the front end of the car - its a 8mm allen key fitting i think from memory, you remove the plug and fill till oil starts leaking out again with the car on level ground. It might be worth having a look if you can see the plug, and removing it - see if theres signs of oil coming out, if not then add some. Could be the sign of a few other issues - Check the brake fluid level, as its a shared reservoir, If its got low and been topped up, or been changed recently it may be that the slave cylinder needs bleeding, and is causing the clutch to drag slightly. Theres also been posts regarding debris getting caught in the selector mechanism, fix is a case of cleaning the selector (have a look on here i've seen a few posts regarding that)

Your best bet is probabbly to take the rocker cover off and have a proper look whats going on underneath. I don't know the V6 engine at all, so can't say without further looking if its got a single chain or two, though theres other ways they can break so you may not be able to see the full story though the filler cap. If all looks ok I'd suggest a compression test would be your next step (a tool to do this can be obtained fairly cheaply yourself, or borrow one off someone - Amazon etc can be used to find them, avoid the silverline one its rubbish!)

There is a couple of other possibilites if the door led doesn't flash - you may have a faulty ignition switch (mk1 one just clips onto the back of the ignition barrel, assume mk2 is the same). Or the mk2 fusebox melting issue if you haven't already ruled that out - do you get any dashboard lights coming on as you turn the key?

THat sounds like the relay - both keys would eliminate the pats chip. Central locking has nothing to do with the immobiliser - one can work without the other in both cases. Relay 30 is on the second level of the fusebox - I Think the back one (its got the top level you can see, then two levels behind that) If when your starting the car (or trying to start it) the door led flashes rapidly then it does sound like relay 30. Sorry for the slow reply - I don't get emails for replies anymore, so its only when i remember to look that i see anything new.

Its the connector coming from the airbag - the yellow one at the end of the squib before it goes into the loom. Behind the steering column cowl opposite side to the ignition key entry. Theres a small metal spring in the connector - if you look at it you should be able to see it. I would guess its intended to prevent accidental ignition either by static or short circuiting it accidentally. You should be able to test by breaking the connection via the spring (piece of plastic between the contacts and spring, or remove the spring and just put it back afterwards) I found the only reliable way to test them was to do so in circuit with VCDS - If you connect both ends up if the fault code clears then its ok! You can do that without having to install it if you remove the airbag first and plug it into the end, obviously take care doing so (keep any tools away from it, try and keep as much space as possible between you and it!) If these are scrapyard bits then I found they tend to set the airbags off before putting the cars out for salvage - by running 12v across them, which melts the ribbon cable. Not good on the heart attack, but hopefully your on the better side of it now, best of luck recovering from it

Never seen one of them before, Does look like it would make it a bit easier though!

Don't know if the galaxy is the same, but most fords you could do a test on the alarm by operating any of the switches 10 times in quick succession - this would then make a blip sound everytime one was moved (for door sensors etc). You can then test the indivual switches (you may find one either doesn't blip at all, or blips a lot - if so its probably corroded inside, and wants either to be replaced or bypassed - if you bypass it then you should be able to prove if its the problem part before spending any money on bits. The bonnet switches they used used to fail regularly, particularly when it started getting cooler at night as they move around making and breaking the connection. I found this resulted in it arming the test mode so every time the car went over any sort of bump the hazard lights would flash - very annoying till you find out what the cause is. I found that disconnecting the bonnet switch on the mondeo was enough to stop the alarm coming on, but allowed it to be locked.

it might be the tie rod rather than the rack - if you can detect movement when the wheel is held (get someone to hold the steering wheel and move the road wheel yourself) and theres rocking back and forth then it probabbly wants the rod - if you can remove the boot to see you should be able to see where the movement is. - this bit shown below is the part i mean. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Galaxy_2.0_1997/p/car-parts/steering/suspension-and-steering/track-rod-and-track-rod-end/?606440665&1&6104273d92609cb74fbe93fabbffcf41455ab750&000347 Your may have to destroy the track rod end to remove it if its not been apart anytime recently. So you may want that as well for the appropriate side. Tyres and tracking also a consideration - are the tyres wearing unevenly?

Seems strange that its happened with the key business at the same time. Relay 30 isn't particually hard to change, it might be worth having a look at it. If hes programmed the keys then the aerial shouldn't be a problem as it would need that to read them anyway.

If it is relay 30 it tends to be intermittent (I've had mine fail twice, and in both cases it would start after a few tries) Mine always cranked over, but failed to start in this case on the key (you could leave it 15-20 mins try again and it would fire) If its consistant then the key is more likely the suspect - has it been dropped if its a remote type key and fallen apart, or have the batteries in the fob been changed? If so then its possible for the pats chip to fall out, with this missing the immobilser will not deactivate. I brought a new relay from GSF - theres a part number on the relay that can be used to order it from there. Or any ford dealer or VW should be able to supply it in theory. Though you should be able to get it from pretty much any motor factors if you have the part in your hand to do so. It might be worth popping the casing off the relay to check - the fault with them tends to be solder joints that have gone dry (broken apart) and can be repaired with some simple solder work if you have access to a soldering iron (or know someone who has) With the door led does it flash when the car is locked every so often - if not theres a good chance its been disconnected if the door card has been removed at some point.

They are all in the same area - You'd usually want to remove the wheel for both of those jobs, but the rest of it would stay together (driveshafts and balljoints) so probabbly not much to be saved, not much point in changing them unless they have failed really either (the drop links do tend to go on Galaxies fairly frequently). Don't think the tie rods fail particularly frequently though, so maybe you just got unlucky there. The overall price to me sounds reasonable if you don't want to do it yourself assuming thats with parts included. Is that including VAT though (garages frequently quote Ex-VAT prices I've found)

Cheaply made rubbish by the sounds of it - though I've seen original ford ones that are no better, its not a good piece of design with those type of bulbs being used.