BrianH

Same side for both or one on each shaft? What parts as well just the boots and grease or did they change gearbox oil at the same time?

Which engine is it? The mk1 has a cable (at least the 2.0 does). If its the fly by wire type then they can fail - would be a replacement pedal sensor or throttle body if so.

It might be worth a scan anyway - the OP won't get the glowplug light as its a 2.3 petrol, but fault code may still be logged. Would think worth scanning with an obd reader and VCDS and see if anything comes up on either in the way of faults.

I'm guessing an automatic gearbox from what you've said. look at the state of the fluid as the first step, if its gone to looking like tar changing it out may help, there may be damage already done. If it looks normal then scan the gearbox with VCDS lite and see if any faults come up, then search for the faults here. Details on the oil change are in the faq section.

That in theory should be ok, IF it was right in the first place of course. Though doing it on new tyres is a good plan. Its worth checking the load rating on the tyres - my mk1 on 15" wheels is fine with 95 (xl) rated tyres, the handling is terrible in the usual ratings for that size (wallows in corners, bounces etc). I was dubious when i took it for alignment and they said wrong tyres, but it made a hell of a difference, and the right rated tyres lasted longer as well.

Sounds like it - you may get some luck drowning it in wd40 as they sometimes just stick, but a new one should sort it.

Did you get it aligned afterwards? Tyres can also have an effect what are you running it on?

Been there and done that - it makes everything more difficult so know where your coming from.

Sounds like a sticky or broken idle control valve to me - it will be on the inlet mainfold near throttle body. Does it keep running if you keep your foot slightly on the throttle?

It does look like its a good bet, depends where you have to work on the car really - this time of year is far from ideal if your doing it outside, and it just makes that sort of job much harder to get done. At least you know it does look like thats the cause from the other post and your codes (which match, as i'm sure you've noticed)

If its a sweet sickly smell its likely to be leaking coolant, Replacing the heater matrix is likely to be required if so. Do you find the screen mists up more than you'd expect, especially on the hot setting? Does the smell go away with the cold setting selected? You might also notice the water level in the expansion tank dropping over time, though it doesn't take much to leak to smell it.

Looks like its at the back of the engine as far as its possible to tell. Will be close to the gearbox end of the engine, see attached picture. number 13

Really depends how much its going for, although that may not be as simple a choice as your clearly looking at a Lefthand drive model, whereas most of the users here will be Righthand drive so values will vary somewhat. What we can see of it looks ok, but you'd be best judge of it. The earlier galaxies do have their faults, but most are easy to fix, hard to say what you will suffer from, though broken door wires a likely candidate.

Have a read of this post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24620-automatic-wont-change-out-of-first-till-gearbox-is-warm/?hl=00652&do=findComment&comment=174344

Best bet is go back to the supplier of the engine and see if you can get hold of the reg/vin - do a lookup on that detail for the part number for the clutch including the slave cylinder, and compare to your own reg. You have said what engine you've fitted, but not what engine was in the Galaxy in the first place? I've known the difficulty selecting gears when running to be down to the gearbox oil level dropping too low - It might be worth a check of it as well.

I had the passenger one fail in the same way, sounds like a scrap yard trip to me as well, Grab any of the yellow clips that hold the door card on while your there, as your bound to break a few on removing it.

Yes - that will make a difference as it has to circulate the oil around the box to fill up certain bits to get the level correct. VCDS lead is cheap, and you only need to use it once to get your money back on it.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/index.php Righthand option for VCDS lite

Broken wire in the drivers door loom likely. Regular galaxy issue. Either that or a duff lock motor is the issue. but wire is most likely

The wiper mechanism is known to be problematic - the fix is to remove it, strip it down, clean up the spindles and lubricate them. There are threads here on doing so. Which fuse blows?

No - it shows those due to using the free version, its to prompt buying the full version, nothing more (automatic scans of all modules and some of the more advanced functions won't work in lite, but nothing you need for this - some of the speedo functions won't work, but aux heater should be fine). Clear it and see if it comes back - it may be the glow plug has failed and done so in a way that left the short, it may be something else. But if its something else it will come back so you will know either way,

Code reader as in a obd code reader or VCDS? A normal code reader won't do the Aux heater, only the engine. You need a vcds lite compatable lead - one of the cheap VAG-COM or VCDS lite leads from ebay will work, then the free version of VCDS from Ross Tech, and a laptop (or a computer if you can get one close enough will work). Scan the aux heater module once you've got it setup and you should either have codes that want clearing, or find you can't access it. Either way you should have a start once you've got that sorted.

If you want to go for confirming the starter motor then if you can find someone who is able to rebuild them they should be able to test it for you. I'm not sure how expensive the starter for the diesel model costs, which may be putting you off replacing it if your unsure. The only other thought is if its a diesel injector playing up - you might clear that up if its the fault with some injector cleaner. The first bit of the above reply (check the injectors leak when slightly loosening the supply pipe) should prove the supply upto that point, so if that proves to be ok I'd try some injector cleaner personally - I've put some directly into the filter on other cars before then run the engine for long enough to pull the cleaner upto the injectors and then leave it for a couple of hours, then try again and its been surprising how much of a difference it can make. Better quality diesel can sometimes help even if its only a single tank worth. The only other thing i've known to cause issues is if the engine isn't running as hot as it should do - Does the front heater get hot, or just barely warm on normal run?

Your best bet is probabbly put up with it for a few weeks having changed the fluid then try again to check on the fluid - a certain amount will be stuck inside the torque convertor (by design, no real way to drain it either). If its still coming out black and gunky or tar like then it will need draining (might be worth giving it an hour or so stood over the drain pan to let as much as possible come out) then refill it again. Leaving it for a couple of weeks should with any luck allow the fluid to break up any old bits left so you drain more out. It may not be the gearbox of course, but if you found degraded fluid in there its not a bad idea to change it anyway as you have done already. if its coming out clean and looking like new fluid then its not worth changing it again. What are you scanning it with to see the fault codes (or lack of codes!)? VCDS might be a better idea if you can use that, as you can scan the gearbox as well with that. Cables can be had from ebay for a few quid, and vcds lite can be downloaded from ross-tech which will do what you need. An obd reader won't show anything beyond the engine, whereas vcds will look at most systems on the car.

Good to know you got it sorted, getting the shaft out of the box can be a pig of a job anyway, plus you risk damaging the oil seal when its disturbed, so may be easier overall to do what you've described anyway.