BrianH

Can you get a laptop within reach of the car? VCDS cables only cost a few pounds - one example from ebay > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD2-409-1-USB-Cable-VAG-COM-OBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS-UK-Stock-/181792604553 VCDS or Vag-com is the same cable, either will work with VCDS lite which is a free download.

Personally I'd pull the display out and check they are really plugged in fully before doing anything (or reseat the connectors just to be sure). I don't know if they are coded to the vehicle (some VW ones are, and will knock out the immobiliser until recoded to the car if you swap them about). Either way a 59 plate will be a MK3, so you might get better luck in that section, hopefully a mod can move it for you.

it might be one of the front door lock motors if its not the wiring - sitting inside the car try operating it from the handle to the locked position and see what happens (try both front doors) If it works as expected on one side but not the other the side manually operated is likley to have a duff lock motor (drivers side in your case). Though wiring may be able to cause the same symptoms as well. I've generally found you will get problems if operating the locks manually (with the key) if you have an aftermarket remote fitted, factory should be ok.

Sounds like a dead lock motor, though could be a bad connection (connected, but corroded or barely connected). Its a mk3 you'd have being a 2008 vehicle though. MK1/2's usually suffer from wiring issues, don't know about the mk3.

You might be lucky and find thats the end of it - depends what blocked it in the first place and if it gets picked back up. If it does it again don't blow down the pipe and remove the pump - if your lucky it might still be stuck to the bottom of the pipe. My mates landrover regularly did this when the strainer fell off, allowing the pipe to fill up with what looked like soil and sand!. though in his case its partly the tank (metal) rotting away from the inside causing debris in the fuel. Fixed the strainer with a fuel hose clamp and its been ok since. cheers for feeding back the cause though - good to know when somethings worked!

I'd have thought more likely the pickup is blocked up - if it was full of water this should fill the filter up not leave it empty. Do you get a good flow of fuel through if you disconnect the feed at the filter and catch what comes out, or is it more like a splutter or dribble? if so then it sounds likes whats happening is the high pressure pump is sucking the filter dry faster than its able to be filled back up. Was this new or used veg oil? If its used is there any chance you've got something into the tank that shouldn't be there? Either debris or a bit of the seal off the bottles? Or the top seal off a bottle of redex or similar? Its been known before that the metal seal can end up in the tank by mistake and keep causing pickup issues. The only thing that could happen with water in the fuel is it could freeze in the tank, you'd have to have quite a lot to notice it causing an issue though, and you'd probably notice the difference in the fuel if it was.

The back bit does unclip separately, I found this out on replacement after mine got hit while parked on the side of the road managing to destroy the back cover but leave the rest intact. The replacement came with that cover loose ready for painting (the only ones I could find at the time), so I just swapped the cover over. It wasn't a particularly easy fit though - A case of persuading it to fit rather than just a push on job. I'd suspect you'd have to push from inside rather than trying to lever it off if you've already got the glass out. You may find some wide plastic trim levers to help - IE release one at a time and jam them in the gap created to hold the clip apart. alternatively for £8.74 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OS-Driver-Side-Right-Wing-Mirror-Cover-Casing-Black-Ford-Galaxy-1995-09-2006-/291671239848

Doubtful its pressurising, more likely its sucking in air from somewhere. Either its a defective filter (can happen) or you haven't got it installed correctly - are you sure you have the hoses the right way round to start with? I think from what others have said that the galaxy diesels do have a pump in the tank - It will make a bit of a mess doing so but disconnecting the inlet should allow you to release some fuel by turning the key (if you can get something over the end of the hose to catch the diesel if any comes out this will minimise the mess created). This will allow you to check the hose you think is the one from the tank really is the one from the tank! There is a place they can break - the hose joint itself - does it move once installed, if so its probably broken, it should almost latch onto the pipe that sticks out of the filter. I don't know on the check valve if it is a one way valve or not.

I think i know the bit you mean from when i had mine off to put the load cover in. I think thats just a housing/cover nothing functional from what i remember, but I never removed it to tell for sure. It could be a housing for something the aspen spec doesn't have though, or could be part of the aux heater (mine is a petrol model, so only has the rear heater fed from the engine). It may be part of the ducting for the rear heater, particularly if its black plastic?

Not relating to the heater specifically, but this should cover it http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8129-speaker-replacement/&do=findComment&comment=61274

You may be able to hold it in place with a cable tie or similar - you can't glue it as it needs to pivot around. If its come out due to anything breaking you should be able to see why with any luck once its removed.

Sounds like you probabbly got the cheapest fix you were going to - £60 for two hours of garage labour is cheap, and you didn't need to replace the catch etc. Good to know its sorted though - you feel better when the pros struggle as well!

If your still struggling theres tools for threading cables which might fit the bill - http://www.screwfix.com/p/super-rod-srprs-polymer-cable-routing-rod-set/69183 for example. This is from the mk1 - might be the same, might be slightly different http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/5194-bonnet-cable/

Depends which bits broken - I've replied to your other post. You need to take it out to see which part is the problem.

Further info - the bits labelled 1 and 2 on your diagram are what you need to extract - the one pointing upwards (1) is the bit the handle pulls to open, 2 is the finger part of the lock barrel - known for breaking due to poor design. 3 is the screw i mentioned above that holds the handle in.

Take door card out Take outer handle off (theres a screw in the bit on the edge of the door, only visible once door is open) To do this you need to remove the 3 bolts on the end of the lock motor part to allow you to move it about to allow the disconnection of the handle. Once the handle is off from the outside its a case of just removing it - window wants to be up to achieve this, you might have lowered it to help with the door card, so make sure its back up afterwards. Don't think you can do it in situ as most of the lock is covered by plastic casing from memory.

Its got in touch with something thats melted it obviously - Not had any welding done recently by any chance have you? As far as i know the cable shouldn't be anywhere near where it can get that hot, though at least once you do get it open you will be able to see whats near to the melted bits. I'd guess whats jammed the cable is the melted plastic sheath has gone inside the spiral bit and stuck it together. Most fords of that age use the lock behind the front badge to release - I suspect as much because its simpler for exactly the reasons your finding as much as anything else. I'm guessing you can't see the bolt heads in its current state either. It might be worth getting underneath and seeing if you can fish from underneath once the undertray is off (assuming its there of course) How can you tell the front end is off though? If you can see it you should be able to access the bit it needs to pull on. If the front end is still connected I'd try to cut through the cable outer layer at a point downwards of the melted section and pull the inner from there if you can access it in some way (thinking fishing from below might be easiest here).

Microcat shows the plate you refer to - see attached diagram from the parts listing. I'd be trying to either cut the plate away to allow access through the front, or try probing around where the cable is shown to release it. You might be better to goto the scrapyard if possible and look at one thats already apart/salvage bits you think might be useful. Any idea which end the cable isn't connected?

It might be worth unplugging each sensor in turn to see if one seems to be the cause of the problem, given you've already tested them with the tick test given above. If you find one causes it to react differently then theres a good chance its that sensor causing the problem. Given its when you engage reverse it would suggest its the rear sensors at fault? Might be worth a look with VCDS?

The rubber is just held on by elastic properties of the rubber - you should be able to prise it off without too much of a problem, once you've done that you can see the two clips that hold the plastic base in place.

I've extracted the wiring loom on another car which wasn't too difficult, but putting it back in may be another issue. Depends how far back you have to go to plug it in - I don't remember seeing a connector inside so don't know how far you will have to go back to. Use your loom as a measuring stick to work out where it should end up? How big is the connector - I would guess it must be able to be pushed through into the car, as the boot part won't fit through the hole.

I'd like to edit it, but I don't seem to have the option to do that? I Don't think the photo was on the profile at the start of the post either, but its in the right place now so hopefully someone can advise. Hes already done the battery though? If its smart charging i think they go upto about 17v ish from what I'd heard - hopefully someone else with the same model can confirm?

Its a MK3, so I don't know what it should be charging at, but 13.7v sounds a little low (I don't know if the mk3 uses the smart charging system some Fords do) - Does it drop if you add a load to it significantly (heater fan, heated windows, lights etc?) You might be just managing to get away with it, in which case not a lot you can do other than ignoring it or replacing/investigating the alternator. It might be worth a post in the mk3 section of the forum to see if you can get someone to confirm if thats too low or not - your currently in the mk1/mk2 section which is a different beast entirely despite sharing the same name!

Depends when its coming on - Assuming its whilst running then theres a good chance your alternator has either isn't being driven properly/come disconnected/died/isn't working for some other reason. If you can get hold of a multimeter and check the voltage across the battery (it should be around 14v or so if its charging) then that should tell you. Model your dealing with might help - engine type and year.

Are the tyres of the right spec - I know you've said youve changed them, but thats no guarantee they are completely correct. It should be on extra load tyres - the particular ones for your model will be shown on the inside of the fuel filler cap, or you can lookup from the registration on blackcircles.com or other sites. If its running with tyres that are below the load capacity (95 in case of my mk1, not sure on the mk2 as to the exact figure but think its still above normal for the tyre size even with the 16" wheels) then that might explain it - Given that your seeming to find it time/distance related it suggests heat is having an effect, only thing i can think would heat up in long space of time is the tyres. If they are wrong it will allow the sidewall to flex too much - i found it caused the steering in the corners to be particually vague and give a somewhat bouncy ride. Plus the tyres don't last anywhere near as long as they should as the shoulders wear out quicker than the rest of the tread.