BrianH

Might be worth a read of this other post http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/19726-cigar-lighter/ Fuse 35 possible. Possible if you've been trying the same item plugged into it and there is a fault with said item that its blown fuses for both sets? The rear one is worth checking the plug is actually connected on the back, particularly if you've had the panel off at any point. You should be able to see the connector through the access panel for the rear light bulbs.

I don't know without removing mine to look but theres certainly something wrong there (the whole angle of it looks wrong to me - very possibly the motor has actually caused it to fail when its seized by managing to force the weakest part, but something had to give either way). Comparing it is the way to go as you say anyway.

Only other thing is if the motor really has given up and fallen apart/collapsed internally, it may be the case thats whats happened and hence the spindle has come away from its correct position making the linkage end up in the wrong place.

Of course probabbly worth mentioning that you will only get a smell from the heater of antifreeze if theres actually any antifreeze in the cooling system - So the other thing to check is does it lose any coolant? any difference with the problem if the heater is set to cold?

mirez did you sort this at all? I have a 1.9tdi on a 04 plate with 84k doing this. it has had:- clutch and dm flywheel complete set of drives shafts disks and pads all round front lower rear bushes new alloys new tyres drop links, roll restrictor and track rod ends seem ok with no play. any help would be appreciated. thanks You say youve had new tyres, but you may want to check the load rating of them. If they are underrated it causes all sorts of odd handling. If you want to check what you should have try a quote on blackcircles and compare to whats fitted, its the last bit (mine for example are 195/65 R15 95V, its the 95 bit that you want to check) The wrong rated tyres will also wear out quicker if that is the cause (they are normally referred to as an XL/Extra Load rated tyre by some places)

Does your rear washer work? (does water get to the rear screen or does it sound like it works but nothing comes out) Do you have a sweet sickly smell coming from the heater when its turned to the hot setting? Do you have a gathering of water round the pollen filter area (open the bonnet and look above the bulkhead panel - if its gathering water up due to blocked drains that won't help either)

Looks to me like the gold coloured bit is bent too far down, though given the thickness of it it must have taken some force to do that if it did bend.

Bit hard to say without seeing it - you could try posting some photos to show what you mean? Not sure if you can compare it to the ones in the photos or the one you actually have that works? It sounds like either your missing something, Or you've got stuff back together in the wrong order or wrong way round? Or its just managed to bend/distort itself somehow when its seized up?

Glad to hear it - I know it sounds crazy, but your not the first to find that sort of issue with a dying battery. Theres many postings on here about the aux heater, I don't have one personally but your moving in the right direction now. just leaves you with your leak to find - Which unless its any of the common issues (broken pipe common on some varients mentioned before) will be a case of trying to fill it and see where it leaks out from. Might be worth a ring round a couple of the air con places to see what they can help with as your pretty much stuck if they say theres a hole its a case of locating it (likely areas for damage are the condensor next to the radiator - stone chips can puncture it, otherwise its where its either been taken apart previously and not put back together correctly, or if something has rubbed against the pipework it can wear a hole over time (generally should only be the case if something isn't in its correct position for some reason - loose brackets, loose hoses, etc are all able to do this given long enough) Or it could be a split in the rubber hoses (its unlikely to be a seal if they detected it under the vacuum stage, more likely its damage of some sort, seals tend to show up more on filling or under use from what i've seen)

The bits in Red will turn a complete circular motion, the bits circled in Yellow will move back and forth only as the circular motion at the motor will reverse as it reaches its furthest point. It will make more sense if you can move it yourself and watch what happens with the mechanism as you do so. Your probabbly ok with the motor - they are surpurisingly tough given the state some peoples spindles get in they still work after freeing them up. There must be a bearing on the bit that attaches the two rods together of some sort that allows them to turn against each other, if yours doesn't seem to move it may need this bit taking apart and cleaning/lubricating to allow it to move.

The motor on most applications is in a single direction, the reverse action being achieved by the linkages and offsets of the pins. Without taking mine apart can't tell you for definite, But that should mean it does not matter anyway.

Ditto here. 16mm certainly possible - I've got a couple of the bolts around somewhere, if i can find them I'll check. Bolts are accessible without jacking up the car or removing the wheels though so easy to confirm.

Fusebox not matching the manual isn't uncommon - theres a few copies somewhere on here so you may be able to find the matching one from those if it helps. I used a piece of trailer wire on mine for the thinner bits there, theres a couple of different sizes there, you need to try and match them as close as you can. Though note there was only about 3 wires in mine that were intact in total (someone elses previous bodging not really helping the situation, as it was full of dodgy repairs and melted bits of plastic held together with bathroom silicone! so was easier to replace the lot in my case) Broken wires don't generally blow fuses on these, just appear to cause random things to happen or not work. The boot gaiter end pieces will come out of the metalwork - theres a clip either side, but I could only get mine out after taking the rubber boot off it to see what was there. they just push back in place afterwards, you can get them back onto the rubber boot and then reinsert them.

I would say quite possibly, and almost certainly. ;) A breaker bar and a full hex socket is the best way, or a ring spanner and a hammer if the bolts are good. And there's the rub... these stupid reduced head bolts are suffering at this age, I did my front discs last year I think, and I had to be very careful indeed with one of the bolts. If I had to take the carrier off again for any reason, I think it would be new bolts time. As for the last 2mm, if you can't be arsed to do the discs now, why not zip the edges off. If the discs are otherwise good and evenly worn, I might even go for a another set of pads on them at 21.5mm. How long has it got to last? Or are you looking to get another 17 years out of it? :rolleyes: 149K on mine now, and the back discs & pads are desperate. Bits are sat here, waiting for a dry day. Starting to get a stream of niggly problems now, but I've had it 13 years and bloody hell it's been a good car. Only 149K? Should have a fair bit of life left in it yet still. Mine is rapidly approaching either having to do major work on the engine or replacing it now, but its done 224k now. I'd go with having at least a couple of replacement bolts if you can find them (i got some from VW but this was about 18 months ago now), if they do snap you should be able to remove the caliper bracket to find something to grab hold of to remove them.

Solve the battery problem code first - It might start and run ok, but if its not getting the expected voltage it can cause a few wierd symptoms (ecus don't always behave properly so can cause all sorts of spurious errors without the right voltage to start with) - once you've got rid of the terminal 30 message you stand a chance of sorting the rest - some of them may disappear at that point if your lucky. And yes, with all that glass its like a mobile greenhouse, I've found opening the rearmost windows does help a bit though (the pop out ones)

When i did them they had fairly good bolts (both front and back) - proper hex head on them no Torx nonsense like other cars. Came undone without too much problem due to that. Decent breaker bar and good fitting socket should allow you to sort it without too much of a problem. You can get to the front ones without jacking the car to check socket size, I can't remember what they were offhand for definite, 15mm seems to ring a bell though? Good luck with your warranty claim! Sounds about as hopeful as my mate with his Series III landrover - he wants to send the handbrake shoes back as they have worn out finally...

If you get the wishbone knocking against any part of the cars chassis it will make a racket as it will be amplified, As Dave says drop links make enough noise when they are shot, the amount of movement you have there its no wonder its making noise. But maybe you now don't need to change the strut you mentioned a few days ago, so probabbly good news. Be prepared for the track rod end not wanting to come off easily - When i had to take mine off to remove driveshafts for the clutch i had to cut it off as it wasn't behaving itself!

Did the terminal 30 error return? If so have a check of the battery voltage with a voltmeter as the first step both with engine running and stopped. Air con gas will leak out of the smallest hole - the only ways I've ever found them is either by seeing the leaking dye (they should put a yellow dye in the oil to make it more noticable) or by hearing the gas escape and tracking the source. A missing seal is also enough to cause a leak that may not be immediately obvious where its coming from.

No idea on the sunlight sensor, doubt its related though. Any idea if theres still gas in the system - if not theres a pipe that goes between the engine and chassis which has a tendency to snap on certain models, Think its somewhere around where it exits through the undertray that it usually goes.

Bolts rounded off by any chance? I haven't tried personally. Have used the irwin bolt remover on similar problematic bolts in the past. Of course you could smash the disc off to remove it, but I'm guessing you want to put a new one in its place so thats probably not the best approach.

Its not unusual to find they have turned into water collectors like yours. Theres a rubber mount that can give problems, I've not had to change it personally but there are posts on here about it. I think from others comments on them that you can change that mount without disassembling the top of the strut - otherwise I'd suspect that unless you can get the shock to unscrew (not likely) that it will be a case of cutting it off. Also if you did manage to undo it then theres no guarantee it will go back together and hold afterwards (I'd certainly not like to trust it afterwards). There is normally some movement of the strut FYI Yours look the same as mine - rusty as hell on the top. You mention the drop links, it can be worth a check of the bushes for the anti roll bar as well if you haven't already done so. Have you had the front brakes apart? Are all 4 bolts on them properly tightened up? (I did have what i thought was a failing drop link which actually turned out to be a loose brake caliper - made obvious when the bolt fell out and the wheel jammed on the caliper!)

The injector loom is a known problematic component on some of the diesels, bearing in mind you will have had to disturb it to replace the head it may be worth looking there. VCDS being the easiest way to start with if you have access to it, if you don't currently have it then a lead can be picked up off ebay for a few pounds and vcds-lite from rosstech's website will be enough to check for any faults being logged. It should at least allow you to rule it out if nothing else.

No DMF on that to give you grief!

At least the labour isn't costing you a fortune! good luck with it.

You were warned! They may be cheaper than the dual mass kits but the dual mass is on there for a reason. You'd probably get away with it on a smaller car, but the Galaxy is much heavier than most.