BrianH

You may be able to clear it by completing a number of drive cycles. IE use it for a few days, otherwise you probably need to clear the codes from it. What model/make (year?) and engine is it?

You will need the drivers that come with the cable to be installed - if it shows up in device manager as unknown device, or with an ! exclamation mark or similar, then sorting that problem should allow it to work.

You've no idea how hot the engine is getting, so that call is upto you if you drive it or not. if you have any access to diagnostics showing live info (torque on a phone for example) you can monitor what the other sensor says. Provided its not getting too hot it would be fine, but you won't have any real warning as to how hot its getting before steam starts appearing! I wouldn't bother draining it unless its really necessary or the coolant is in poor condition - some coolant will come out on removing the sensor, but not too much. Topping back up afterwards should cure this, may be a good idea to allow it to come back up to temperature with the pressure cap removed to allow any trapped air to escape. Having some spare coolant of the right type (to match what you've got) not a bad idea.

its just a simple 12v pump. 2 connections to it go to the motor, easiest bet is either power it as you say, or look for 12v across the input to it. Brushes typically wear out, theres no detection of the pump state its a dumb motor, so diagnostics won't show a failure, will see the rear heater getting too hot though. Repeated errors will lock the heater out though, and will need clearing (see vcds info further back) to allow you to try it again even if the run on pump has been made to work again. Lead for VCDS can be had from ebay for less than a tenner though, just need a laptop and download the free vcds lite software then.

Its a mk3 model you've got, so hopefully it will get moved to the right area. if not you may get more luck on that section using the technicial help section as the right people may see it then! It sounds like a dodgy switch to me is most likely, the earlier cars suffered with wiring issues but don't think the mk3 does as much, hopefully someone there can give you some assistance.

That sounds like the sensor for the gauge to me, though wiring is possible given the car was cold when reading normal. When mine failed it started reading hot then would alternate all over the place on the gauge. You don't say which engine it is, the 2.0 is on the thermostat housing underneath if i remember correctly (theres another sensor on there which tells the ecu the temperature as well, easiest way to tell which is which is to unplug one and see if it makes the gauge drop down), its a case of obtain a new sensor, unscrew the old one and replace it and plug it back in. not particularly difficult except for getting to it really (access is a bit awarkard), if it still plays up then the wiring could be at fault, it may be worth checking over the bits you can get to of it first (any obvious damage to the wires etc needs fixing before tacking the sensor)

Certainly on the mk1 there are the correct pressures shown for the tyres (each size listed separately) inside the fuel filler cap, these should agree with the handbook anyway. I just run at those, though if you run at the fully loaded pressures when the car isn't fully loaded the handling/ride quality can be somewhat worse than it should be. Though obviously as size/weight increases the pressure does have to increase, and the Galaxy is around 1.8 tonnes upwards anyway depending on spec.

Ebay for the lead, ross tech website for the latest version of software (lite version should be fine, the cheap leads should be fine for what you require). No idea on the glowplug though. I'd have a look on the software side first to see if the problem is the glow plug first if i were you. Think they normally either smoke excessively or log flame out errors with a duff plug, but there are other things that can cause them to lock out till cleared. So I got a lead, no faults found now after I cleared the ground one. Still getting smoke though. Sounds like it needs the plug/gauze to me then, though the fact your getting it to try now is a good sign! Will be a case of take it apart and have a look really.

You can see it from the footwell under the console on the mk1, your mk2 you may have to remove the lower panel to see it, but have a look underneath there - its all accessible from the pedal end. The other thing that can happen is the feed into the servo splits - this would be under the bonnet, its a rigid plastic hose that feeds into the servo from the inlet manifold.

Not off hand I don't have an auto model. its either on the gearbox or selector. If i get chance will try to look at the parts list, though you might be able to find it on one of the online ones.

Sounds like a leaking servo - theres a seal on the back that you can see from underneath. If its not causing problems with the brakes you'd probabbly best leave it alone as getting a replacement servo isn't particually straightforward, a second hand one may be just as bad, new ones you need the right one for your vehicle, as they differ between lefthand and righthand drive, and the master cylinder. Mine did it for some time, i ended up putting some grease on the seal which seems to have stopped it.

Check the fluid level in the gearbox - info in the faq section on that. It shouldn't start in drive/reverse gears, so it may be the interlock switch playing up causing it to not want to start.

Rattling might be the secondary air injection fan motor - if you look near the expansion tank it should be there, I've been running without mine for at least 4 years as it doesn't work (on taking it apart looked like it had caught fire at some point). but if it is that it won't be anything to do with the starting issue. The starting issue might be the usual relay 30 problem? It might be worth pulling the relay out and either removing the case and resoldering it, or replacing it (should be about £10 at most, possibly less, and they do fail regally so it if hasn't been changed it would be worth ruling out) The easiest test for that is to look at the led on the drivers door - compare when it does start to when it doesn't. Rapid flashing when it fails to start would be immobiliser problem, which would be likely relay 30.

Microcat seems to confirm the two types for the mk1 - see attached, gearbox being the difference.

You might have better luck making a hole through a empty part of the connector to allow a piece of wire through to bypass the connector where the damaged pins are, Surprised it ruined it that quickly though. Good luck getting it sorted.

Well at least you've found your leak. You will probably get away with removing the water from the gaiter etc (allow the connector to dry out on both sides) then give it a shot of water dispersement spray (wd40 or gt85 etc). And fix the leak of course!

You need to identify what is leaking - check the easy things first Does the rear washer work? Is the scuttle full of water? Does the leaked water smell of coolant/are you losing coolant?

Could be a failed lock motor - from what you've said the drivers side sounds like the culprit here. Because the key moves the door lock unit it will work in this state after a fashion, but the remote function will see a door not locked and then unlocks them again. You might also find it worth looking at the connector in the door pillar just in case there is any burnt or corroded pins on the socket.

Is it the same part number on the cluster? Does the rev counter match yours (the petrol ones would show upto 7k, diesel would be lower)

There is a fuel shutoff on the 2.0 also operated by engine vacuum, I'd suspect the same may be the case on the 2.3, that may be worth a look at the same time. Its possible to use carb cleaner to find vacuum leaks - careful application of it to a suspect surface will cause the engine to rev or cut out if its being drawn into the inlet system, in which case you have a leak somewhere in that area (or your spraying it and its getting picked up by the intake)

1226678 appears to be what you require - check the attached screenshot. http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-1226678-cable-control/ You never came back with anything to check against, so I can only go off what you provided, I would suggest if you decide to order the above that you confirm with them that its suitable for your vehicle against your vin/reg number (if you do actually need it of course!)

Rear wiper will probably be broken wires in the gaiter to the tailgate. you will get used to having to go in there eventually! It looks like its been cared for though!

Lift the ashtray out in front of the gearstick, its underneath.

As said above - unless you have like mine with one single seat in the boot area, in which case finding one of the right seats for the missing position should sort your 7th seat. The seats come out completely by moving the right bits around underneath, no tools required to swap them, and both sets of slots should be present. 6k even in Euros seems a little pricey to me though for a car of that age, even given the spec, though if thats whats available then your pretty much there anyway. The only module in the door is the door lock motor - I've had one of these fail, but they aren't too difficult to replace if you have a replacement unit. Wiring is more likely the issue, and the boot gaiter can cause issues you'd only notice elsewhere. It might be worth checking the brake lights work as expected (keep an eye on the dashboard at the same time, if the backlight lights up when the brake pedal is pressed with the lights switched off one of the two wires on the boot is broken. also check they actually light up, if not then theres a good chance you have wiring issues back there.

If you can pm me either your Reg or Vin i can have a look on Microcat against it to see whats shown? I found similar issues with my much earlier 2.0 - Brought a cable from somewhere (not got access to my old emails at present as I'm away from home, Might have been allcarpartsfast or eBay, Not sure). And then managed to find the actual problem was the boot on the cable where it goes into the throttle had come adrift from the post it was supposed to be on, You could push it back on and it would be ok for a few times, but would come off again. A cable tie around the base of the boot seemed to have solved it though as long as you pull it tight enough. I don't know if the 2.3 is significantly different in that area, but I can try to get a photo of it at the weekend.