BrianH

I think hes probably sorted it in the last 10 years!

Might be enough to slow the flow of oil back to the strainer - as you say removing it sounds like a good idea to start, might be worth considering an oil flush product as well when you next change the oil?

I found pulling fuse 19 on my mk1 would allow manual locking of the doors in the short term (it cuts the power to the central locking, but also a couple of other things like the instrument panel were affected). Not sure which fuse would supply the mk2 but might prove a workaround till you can actually look at it. May not be the drivers door alone, could have problems with any door including the boot, but start at the drivers door first.

Would sound like a dodgy oil pressure sensor to me. I think they all come on but would expect the oil and battery to stay on till the engine has started. It should only indicate that the oil pressure is lacking so would expect it to be on all the time personally. Might be worth investigation at the sender - if you see the same with the engine running or not then suggests its dead to me.

If it does reoccour (its certainly possible it may do) then the relay can either be replaced (I've found a replacement for under £10 off GSF's website using the number printed on the top of it) or pull it out and get the solder points resoldered (they will have gone dry - broken/cracked/crazed appearance on the solder). If you aren't confident in doing it it shouldn't cost much if anything at all to get some fresh solder on the points and fix the problem for a few years by doing so.

If you have a laptop a vag-com lead with vcds lite should do what you need, the VAG com or vcds leads can be picked up very cheaply off ebay. You might find you need it a few times anyway if your troubleshooting the heater so may be better to have it.

What i noticed is compared to the original the castings on the J&R ones didn't have the same shape - Bear in mind if Ford/VW have made it a particular shape there will be a reason for it, The J&R ones were just circular outside. I also found when we did remove them there was already a noticable amount of play in the joints so don't think they would have lasted particually long. That was on a mondeo though which isn't as heavy as the Galaxy either. I took them back to the parts store I usually use and they took them without a problem to refund the surcharge though, so wasn't all bad! I don't have an opinion on the Dual mass flywheel point, but its one of the reasons I'd steer clear of a diesel now anyway.

Nicely done! May I ask where you purchased a new rubber boot? I cannot find the correct one on ebay, at least not for a reasonable price.. Official ford dealer. It was about 10-12 euro. I took oem number from left rubber,because right was too damaged. http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-1023664-grommet/ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Rear-Boot-Tailgate-Wire-Grommet-1023664-/121970438273?hash=item1c66013081:g:GA0AAOSwO~hXIhQ3 By the time the postage is on your looking at £12, ebay much the same. Might be worth phoning a vw dealer, or going to a scrapyard to see if you can find one? 95VW17K652AF appears to be an alternative part number, though there should be a vw one as well though I can't currently find one

I found those same driveshafts gave me issues with wobbling under acceleration personally. I got so annoyed with it I replaced them after around 10K and problem gone.

Try posting in the MKIII section - noone is going to see it here in announcements!

They vary a bit, but mine is in the upper radiator pipe (theres a plastic section about halfway between the stat housing and radiator, with an opening to allow the sensor to slot into, with a clip to hold it in place. That is a 2.0 though. like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-FORD-Galaxy-fan-motor-temperature-switch-green-4-pin-connector-/291743259241?hash=item43ed40da69:g:0LwAAOxy3zNSigTR Does your sensor have a thread on it, or is it like the one in the photo on the listing (mine is similar, but only 2 pin) Look at 14 on the diagram below http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24432&s_id_model=98&s_code_image=G002065501 I'd suspect its more likely the piece of pipe has been damaged and something done to stop it leaking. The other possibility depending where the sensor will reach is that the radiator has been swapped, possibly for the wrong one?

the original insulation isn't particually thick - the metal part of the wire is the bit that would be measured. The colour won't really matter too much as long as you can keep track of it - mine was such a mess with someone elses bodging that i had to start from scratch anyway.

There will be a few different sizes - I used a combination of a length of trailer lighting wire on mine for all the thin wires (these run to the locks and lights) and single thicker wires for the ones that are thicker to start with. Try to stick to the same size as originally used - I seem to remember using some 17a and some 27a cable as thats what sizes i could get at the time. You may want to get a couple of colours to make it easier. Don't make it too thick as they will probably break easier than the originals as you suspect - the rear hatch bends through quite an angle so stresses the cables.

Its not likely to be the module, its much more likely to be broken wires - common issue on the Galaxy. Check all the door gaiters and repair any wires - You don't say if your able to open either of the rear doors from inside, or if they are deadlocked?

You might find the radio is down to the ignition switch - when it plays up next gently move the key back towards off (only very slightly) and see if it comes back on - if so you need to replace the switch (it clips on the end of the lock barrel and is a seperate part, or at least is on the mk1). The tailgate wiring causes all sorts of strange issues, Surprisingly not blown fuses which you'd expect though! Q something driveshafts probabbly Q drive - cheap ones from ECP. Avoid any from J&R they caused the same problem for me as well. There are better ones around though. Or get a used original one off ebay or similar if you can find a decent one.

Where are you rejoining the wires? The thicker ones on mine did break again - as yet not repaired properly, but looking at It i think i might use a couple of smaller wires to replace the single thicker wire, as they should flex easier that way. If you can make all joints outside of the gaiter you should be ok at least for a while - mine lasted about 2 years before I had the dashboard lighting up when using the brakes.

Theres a common failure of a relay (relay 109 on the diesel engines, 30 on petrol) that causes the immobiliser to play up. The usual sign of this is it fails to start but will crank over, and the led on drivers door flashes differently to normal. Either remove the relay in question, pop cover off of it and resolder joints, or replace it with another one (I've brought the petrol one off GSF based on the number on the relay, others have brought from VW, either way is easier once you have got it out to see what one it is. I've had mine fail twice now, the first one i replaced, second one when it failed i put the original one back in resoldered and its been fine since). If your handy with a soldering iron or know someone who is it should only cost you the time to pull the relay out to check/fix it. Its worth ruling this out before any further playing with the ecu, good chance theres nothing wrong with the original ecu anyway, they rarely fail.

Use the latest vcds lite from ross tech once you get your lead, just install the drivers off the disc it comes with first.

I doubt its possible to do it - its much longer and more tangled than the injector loom. Plus i don't recall seeing a plug to seperate the rear section either, so you'd still have to rejoin wires in some way, preferably solder. The faults are probably all in the gaiter, its not particularly difficult to unclip both sides of it to give some slack to work on and replace the wires connecting like to like.

Still sounds like a broken wire to me - There isn't any relays I'm aware of. Its possible that one has broken but not very obviously so - have a full poke around inside the gaiter again and check (both front ones, and the boot as the global opening can cause some odd issues if wires have broken elsewhere)

Sadly this illustrates what the local dealer said last time i was in there - you'd be better off going to VW.. Though they struggle if your dealing with the petrol engine ones anyway, a point that seemed lost on the parts dept guy....

Not really! - Have a look at the pulley, it could be the alternator tensioner pulley rather than the pulley on the alternator itself (I've had the one on my petrol model fail - it started squealing but i couldn't find the cause till the alternator belt fell off when it collasped!)

Its possible on the diesel to set a speed limit in the ecu - has it always been like this, or a sudden happening? Once its set you can't increase it - you can decrease it, but not remove or increase it. It may be worth having a look through the forum posts and then a look at the right bit with VCDS

Good that you've got the brake lights sorted! Some of the diesels have a clutch pulley, I don't have a diesel one to try/look at, but pretty sure if you take the belt off you should find it turns one way but not the other. But theres no reason i can think of why you'd only get it in reverse - the engine (and hence alternator) turns the same way regardless of the gear selected. Do you have parking sensors? (look at the rear bumper - I'd wonder if you have them but they are a bit broken causing the sound to be generated?)

Your best bet if you haven't already done so is put a post up in the mkIII section technical part of this forum > http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/forum/175-mkiii-technical-section/ The chances of it being seen here aren't good - hence your lack of answers. I don't have a mkIII so can't help you but someone there should be able to assist.