BrianH

I cut along mine using the split as a starting point - work away from the barbed connector you should be able to lengthen the split enough that it should pull off easily then, Otherwise your into trying to remove the inserted piece (and not tear the rubber seal in the process of doing so). Sharp blade will make it more controllable as to where you can cut it.

That manual also exists - see the reply in your other post. You might find more luck in the mk3 section though as well.

https://haynes.co.uk/catalog/manuals-online/car-repair-manuals-online/ford/ford-s-max-and-galaxy-diesel-06-15-haynes The MK3 one exists now, as long as your after a diesel it seems. Or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ford-S-MAX-Galaxy-Diesel-2006/dp/B01FIIVDIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472770963&sr=8-3&keywords=ford+galaxy+haynes

There is a haynes manual for the mk2 - https://haynes.co.uk/catalog/manuals-online/car-repair-manuals-online/ford/ford-galaxy-petrol-diesel-00-06-x-06-manual Can't help with the turbo question though, or advise if the Haynes manual is helpful in respect to the turbo (I find some of their procedures better than others) as I've not had to deal with it. Paper copy is cheaper on Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Galaxy-Petrol-Diesel-Service-Repair/dp/0857335561/ You may be able to find cheaper elsewhere, but you know it exists now at least.

The crimp referred to above is a known common failure point, you need to look at that first.

You will be able to clear codes with the lite version providing you've fixed the reason they occurred in the first place. You can't do some of the coding functions in the free version but these probably not a problem anyway.

The ignition key is on the wrong side as well in their images....

Mine is the same as yours - switches to the lefthand side of the stereo. It doesn't make sense to have them on the righthand side as they aren't as easy to see. i would assume thats how they all are?

I've used the silicon type stretchy stuff and its been fine. As long as its vacuum pipe you should be fine. Not sure if the diesel servo is different, the petrol one does pull out of the unit, but you don't need to disconnect the 90 degree bit to replace the pipe, just cut it off to remove as long as you've got replacement.

those hard pipes split easily - theres a reasonable chance the other end has done the same thing. Take the bulkhead panel out you should be able to see it, airbox may also help

Is the door LED flashing rapidly when it fails to start? (on drivers door). If so it may be worth trying relay 109?

If i remember correctly you have to remove the metal clip on the end with the translucent connector - it shorts both sides together when its unplugged otherwise if you try and test with a meter. I know when i was looking that the salvage yards were pretty useless - most of the ones i tried had fried the clock springs when firing the airbags to make them safe before you could take parts off them. I found the easiest way to test was to just plug the clock spring in before installing it to both connectors then do the reset procedure in VCDS.

I got a new one off ebay when mine went - after trying a used one with no luck from there. They appear to have gone up a bit from when I got mine though - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Galaxy-Airbag-Contact-Clock-Spring-94-00-7292004-/181759043341?hash=item2a51aee70d:g:aGsAAOSweW5VZx4x looks like what i got, depends what spec you have (if you have steering wheel controls there will be more connections than normal ones, not sure if the mk1 has any one that have those though). Theres some used ones on there as well, ideally you need to check your part number against what it should be. Alternative non-ebay link - http://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ford/ford-7292004-contact-airbag/ - bit more expensive again. The red tag shown in the listing is how they come as new anyway.

I managed to get that bit out (think it was when i was replacing the radiator though not 100% sure that was the job in question). The place i got to do the alternator I'd said take it off and leave it off (meaning put it in the car I'd put it back later on). They must have chucked it away as a few days later I realised i didn't have it!. You can take those pegs out, but your bound to lose most of them in the process anyway. If yours is a mk2 it may be different though. Either way you've done it - I've seen/done worse - changing the starter motor on a mondeo is a complete pig as you have do do it from underneath, but its up at the top right below the manifold so access is not good.

Sounds like the brushes in the alternator have worn out to me then - exactly what i had happen. Mine chose an ideal time to do it - I was in the middle of Belfast city at the time, with a ferry crossing before getting home to deal with it. I ended up managing to find somewhere to fit a new alternator - Was the only way of sorting it at the time, as was without tools and couldn't find an alternator for it over there either to buy!

The 2.0 mk1 has an automatic tensioner - I believe the 2.3 is the same (guessing thats what your asking about as its whats shown on your profile). You just put a spanner onto the bolt head in the middle and push it to release tension (you don't need to undo it your just using it as a lever to hold the pressure). 15mm spanner from memory is whats needed. I'd suggest you take some photos of the belt routing before you take it off - theres usually a few different ways it seems to fit, but isn't correct, and given the amount of pulleys involved it can take some time to work out the right route otherwise. You can just slip it off the alternator once the tension is released, but its unlikely to stay in place once you do. You may find it useful to confirm its the alternator by giving it a sharp tap to see if the light goes out - it will only do so briefly (i got about 5 minutes from mine when it failed) but this should be enough to confirm that its that at fault - your description suggests so, though a good idea to check all the connections as well if you haven't before you start. If you really want to hold it in place you might be able to use a length of string to the bonnet latch or similar anchor point, but it shouldn't be too much of a problem. You will need the undershield off to release the tensioner, and probably easier if you remove the wheel on that side as well.

It could be a dodgy sender - I've only got the petrol model to compare to, but there is two sensors on that, one that drives the gauge and another that is used by the ECU. You can view the ECU one with torque on the petrol ones, might be able to do the same with VCDS to check how hot the coolant actually is? Otherwise maybe consider changing the sensor? (I discovered this when the gauge sender for mine went faulty, and just read randomly anywhere between cold and boiling depending how it felt - checking the sensor in torque showed expected temperature of approx 80-95 degrees once it was warm and stayed there)

Keeping it in a lower gear than normal should raise the exhaust temp IE keep the revs high for a bit. You have a MK 3 though you might find an answer in that bit of the forum rather than mk1/mk2.

Its worth noting that the wrong tyres (load rating) can cause issues with tyre wear as well as handling. You'd expect to see extra load (XL) on most of them with the correct spec, looking up via Reg number on blackcircles.com usually a good bet to identify what should be fitted, assuming standard wheels of course. Hopefully you have the screenshot from the TIS disc attached to this showing the settings.

Both those faults may have been caused previously - First step if i were you is to clear them and scan again, see if they come back later. You obviously have a possible coolant leak somewhere - Few likely places, worst possibility is the heater matrix, Can you smell coolant anywhere? (set heater to hot when checking). Or see it coming out from anywhere (bear in mind you have the rear heater as well to check, might help to drop the engine lower cover off first to have a look, assuming its there of course!)

Maybe coincidence, hard to say. The maf code will be some sort of problem to do with the sensor mounted in the air intake - check the wiring to it - is it plugged in, and is there any damage to the wires? (find air filter, trace where the big hose goes to on the engine, the airflow sensor will be somewhere on that hose length, I haven't seen a v6 to tell you further on that) Same applies to the coolant sensor - could be a faulty sensor or damage to the wiring. It may be the case that only one of them is bringing the light on, and the other has been sat in its current state for a while. You might find it worth scanning with VCDS as most people here would use that over an OBD reader on the v6 models and the diesels. So any previous posts are likely to contain the vcds fault codes not the obd ones.

Mines more than the pair of yours put together so don't complain too much!

Pictures are long gone - its a 10 year old post I think alot of the old images got lost when the forum software got upgraded at some point. You might find a repost of the info on the mirez forum with some photos? probably sounds stupid but, what's mirez forum? Have a look at this for starters http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/heater-matrix-replacement/msg7855/#msg7855 I know its the heater matrix but it covers much the same ground. You may find more info on there. You can allegedly change the heater matrix without removing the dash according to some posters on here. I wasted a lot of my and my mates time trying to do so before deciding to just remove the dash instead. It didn't take as long as had been expected, but discovered at the same time the matrix I'd brought some time beforehand off Ebay was for a LHD Galaxy not a RHD one!

The facelifted one would be a MK II not a MK I. I don't know though I'm sure i've seen differences in the designs between the mk1 and mk2 ones on ebay

Pictures are long gone - its a 10 year old post I think alot of the old images got lost when the forum software got upgraded at some point. You might find a repost of the info on the mirez forum with some photos?