BrianH

Have a poke about in the boot wiring gaiter - its an odd combination if it is that, but lots of electrical gremlins stem from there. I'd suspect maybe a problem with the stalk unit otherwise. I've known broken wires in the boot to cause the dashboard light up when the brake pedal is pressed. Other thing you could rule out is the pump - either check for voltage with a multimeter with the lever operated, or disconnect it and put 12v across it to see if it does anything. Is this front, rear or both screens?

from memory i found they almost fell apart once in that state - the rear bit with the paddle (that you have already removed) does most of the holding work. You might need to insert the key IF you can still do so to release it. The tumblers should hold it in place. FYI if you have a passenger door handle with a lock (the mk1 does, not sure if the mk2 does suspect it does not) they are interchangable. As you won't be able to just buy another lock barrel with the same key from the dealers (they just offer a new barrel with key to match it) you will need to either put up with 2 different keys, or retrieve the tumblers and reuse them in the right order. Also the locks do have a bad habit of failing on these - either they get jammed, or the paddle breaks apart at the back allowing the entire barrel to fall out.

This may help - there are two different part numbers, one covers upto build dates at the end of april 2001, the other covers from then till 2006. There is the same number shown for all 3 seats other than the date. See screenshot below.

Most likely symptom with the hose is the caliper sticking in the out position and failing to retract, so doubtful its that. It sounds like its knackered to me. Are they in a green box by any chance? If so I'd suspect they are the same ones I brought to replace mine. They have been fine for about 70k miles without any messing about so should be ok. TBH if its playing up given its the brakes involved I'd send it back if I were you.

It does sound that way - i'd be tempted to take the caliper off and see if you can get the piston to operate like that - if it doesn't move then it may be the hose. i'd suspect if its sat on the fully retracted position that the handbrake mechanism may not be able to operate, but you'd have taken it off fully retracted by operating the footbrake normally. It may just be a duff caliper, was it a recon one you've fitted or a new unit?

They generally on the rear calipers will wind in one way and out the other. Unlike the fronts that will just push back in. Hence you need a tool to twist as well as push them back - Like this > https://www.amazon.co.uk/AllRight-Brake-Caliper-Rewind-Piston-x/dp/B0177MQ4B2/ You may find taking the caliper off and using something to twist the piston around to be enough to sort it. I've found its more reliable to use a tool such as the one above that will locate into the cutouts on the piston to rewind the calipers as you know they are going in square then as well. If your having that much grief on the one side i'd consider looking at the flexi hose at the same time, as the footbrake is used to operate the adjustment automatically if this is partially blocked (where it goes though the brackets that retain it this can be the case due to corrosion) then replacing it may help. Operating the caliper should tell you if its working or not with some assistance from someone else to operate the pedal.

You need the cable - the software comes with the cable (not the same as a vag-com cable, it looks similar though)

Tis lists the following for the points against the mk2 G10 under dash panel, RH side G11 vehicle floor, under LH front seat G12 Can't find G13 RH D-pillar (B 2) (pic shows down near the light cluster) G14 LH A-pillar G15 RH A-Pillar Hopefully this helps you somewhat, theres various diagrams on the same disc which may help with what your looking at?

Could be - easiest way to tell is going to be to get hold of a vcds lead and look at the diagnostics. Failing that inspect each sensor and ring in turn, including the wiring near to the wheel. Given how cheaply a lead can be picked up for I'd start with that if I was in your position, saves a lot of guessing for less than a Tenner!

The other possibility that comes to mind given the flashing coil light is water in the fuel filter?

If you know where the bit thats replaced is you might be able to find it on here > http://catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l=bWFya2V0PT1ldXJvfHxjYXRfaWQ9PTExMDAxfHxjYWJicj09R0NBMXx8dGhrPT0zfHxzdD09NjB8fHN0cz09eyIyMCI6IkV1cm9wZSIsIjMwIjoiUy1NQVhcL0dhbGF4eSBDQTEgMjAwNi0iLCI0MCI6IjUgQm9keSBBbmQgUGFpbnQiLCI1MCI6IjUwMTEwIEJvZHkgQW5kIFBhaW50LlNlYXRzIEFuZCBSZWxhdGVkIFBhcnRzIiwiNjAiOiI1MDExMDE1IEZyb250IFNlYXQgQmFzZSJ9fHxhbHBoYT09NXx8Z3JvdXA9PTUwMTEwfHxzZWN0PT01MDA4QUxZfHxzZXQ9PUExNTAxMTB8fGltZz09RzAxNDk2MzYxM3x8ZjEyPT0tOTM5NDQ0NDgwKzEzNw%3D%3D If that works then I'd suspect you can identify the vct hub from there at least to a part number, which should give you a starting point.

The mk3 doesn't have the flat floor of the earlier models, depends what your couriering as to if that matters to you though.

No. The alloy ones have a large bit on the base like a washer, the steel ones are a solid single piece. Alloy ones > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Galaxy-wheel-nuts-bolts-x-6-/172636459459 Steel Ones > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Wheel-Bolt-To-Fit-Ford-Galaxy-1994-2000-7201016-/191858787503 Given the differences i would say you should be ok using the alloy ones on a steel wheel, but not recommended the other way round. given the spare on a set of alloys is as far as I know a steel wheel this shouldn't be a problem. I believe the seat radius is the same on both?

Given the VCT hub controls the variable timing, and you appear to have an issue with the timing highlighted by the light and the garage has said you need to replace it, suggests it could be the cause of the issue. It might be worth sourcing a second opinion though from another garage particularly if the cost is high Does P0039 come back once its cleared?

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0017 suggests that its a camshaft/crackshaft timing error - in other words that the two sensors aren't indicating the two items are in time with each other. Could be a faulty sensor, but would expect that to generate other errors really. It would be an idea to have a look at the timing first - has it had any work done to replace the timing belt (cambelt) or similar recently? Or is it due for that on the service schedule? Which year and engine is it as well (guessing a Diesel of some form by the parts you reference?)

Pull the boot off the wiring that runs through the door post (where the hinges are) so you can see the wires. You will probabbly find at least 1 broken wire there, repair broken wire outside the hinge area as far as possible if you want a longer term fix (splice in a new piece of wire, keep soldered joints as short as possible to avoid stressing the wire). Common issue on both mk1 and mk2 Galaxies

You'd be best advised to disconnect the battery before attempting it (as the airbag is in the area you'd be working in) and give it 20 minutes for any charge to dissipate. You should be able to replace the stalk fairly easily - I think when i removed mine (mk1 in my case) its a single screw in the top once you get the covers off and then the whole lot lifts out (the wiper one as well). Shouldn't be particually hard if you can operate a screwdriver and find the screws (two on top on the mk1, three underneath then the covers come off. mk2 may be different to some degree). It slides upwards, you don't need to take the steering wheel off or anything major to do it. It may be worth you getting the new stalk anyway as you will need it, and then if you feel unable to do it you can take it to the garage to get it fitted? (it should also give you an idea how to remove it)

No very true - there is some absolute junk on there to be wary of though (usually evident by checking the addresses against the item location, when they appear to be trying to hide details of it coming from abroad etc). Some bargains can be had from there (2 of my current vehicles came from there) but not everything is good! If you get the chance to try the same cable on another Galaxy that might give you an answer if its something wierd with the cable gone wrong, or somehow related to the wiring. But your working now which is the main thing.

MK1 or MK2 here? if your not sure what year is it? If its mk1 i can't think which bit you mean, you may be able to pick them up off eBay if your trying to avoid a trip to the scrapyard? Check the fluid level in the box if i were you - details in the faq section at the top of the forum, it may be either a bit low, or may need the fluid changing (looking at it if it looks like tar or smells burnt compared to new fluid then changing would be sensible).

Well thats rather odd, though maybe its just starting to fail. That said a lot of the diagnostics kit available is rather poor quality particularly if its been sourced from eBay or similar (misprintings on the product, one of the ones i brought had 4 different spelling mistakes on a total of 10 words!) and it can be hit and miss as to what they support protocol wise so its not that surprising really. You solved your own problem at least though so all good there. Hopefully you will get to use the engine as you intend to at a later point.

The lever you use to operate the wipers would be the stalk. You've fixed it though so looks positive. At least if you've got it out you know how to get in there if it goes again. I think the same pump does both washers (front and rear) - just spins the motor the other way to achieve it. They usually are like that, if theres two pipes leaving the pump i'd be pretty sure thats the case. Well done on getting it sorted though.

It might be worth checking its not the bearings in the top of the suspension struts first - they do seem to fail and cause all manner of creaking noises. Disconnecting the track rod ends from the wheel hub should allow you to prove it if your not sure.

Bit hard to say, but looks like part of the egr system to me in the first photo?

The jets are heated on a lot of higher spec fords, I would guess some if not all of the Galaxy range may have the same. Its usually the case that a heated screen will be accompanied with heated jets. I'd suspect the pump on the reservoir is either gummed up with crap (sometimes they fill up with algae in the tank, particularly if you don't use any screen wash) or just dying. If you can get a multimeter onto the connector and get soemone to operate this should tell you. Voltage there consistently would indicate wiring probably ok. If theres no voltage there it may be the wiper stalk causing the issue, again multimeter should give you an answer to that.

Its a problem with the default theme - if you try to goto virteq.com you get all manner of errors with their website. To stop it coming up click change theme and change it to the other one - change theme is down at the bottom of any page of the website. That should stop it. More info on it here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/27546-virteqcom-password-request/&do=findComment&comment=190343