BrianH

I'd guess you may have had one of the bearings that sits on the tripod in the upper end of the shaft come out of its housing - this will allow movement if so, but may only be detectable at certain angles. If you can free off the hub you should be able to check this, not sure how easily you'd be able to get the two parts of the shaft apart and check/fix it though.

Pump is under the bonnet - it circulates coolant from engine to the rear. Cloulds of smoke sounds like either glowplug or gauze to me, though have a read though yourself and look. probabbly eaiser to fix than some of the faults they throw up though.

Does it work from warm as expected? A failing plug will usually allow starting eventually, but may well smoke till it manages to warm up sufficiently. From a warm (read heated - anything from approx 10 mins running i'd expect to start within a half hour or so without needing the glowplugs to help) start if it fires up quickly then i'd suspect the plugs to be suspect.

Ebay for the lead, ross tech website for the latest version of software (lite version should be fine, the cheap leads should be fine for what you require). No idea on the glowplug though. I'd have a look on the software side first to see if the problem is the glow plug first if i were you. Think they normally either smoke excessively or log flame out errors with a duff plug, but there are other things that can cause them to lock out till cleared.

What wheels are they? original ones or aftermarket and what size? Take it this is the mk2 your dealing with?

No idea on the toe setting, On the tyres side of things i've found some makes better than others - Maxxis lasted ages on mine with motorway milage, the current pair of cheaper ones i've got on the front aren't doing anywhere near as well (both shoulders wearing despite correct pressures). Same problem i had with others that were fitted that were incorrect load rating they just didn't last. The toyos currently on the back have been fine, though being on the back they get less wear anyway.

Thick black gunk isn't right - this is probabbly your issue. I'd suggest running it a bit, then trying again as some of the ATF won't come out on each refill (its held in the torque convertor). It may help to get the gearbox hot (do it after running the car about a bit) before draining it again. Its typically a couple of goes if you look at the other posts on the subject before much of a change. May be the N92 solenoid, don't know for sure.

Certainly possible as stated above - You will need the serial number off the radio, as the only people who might (and stress might) have the number is ford. If you've had the car from new it should be on a card in the original handbook for the car - sometimes referred to as the radio passport if I remember correctly the last time I saw one. Incidentally when your taking it out to check the serial number sometimes the last person in there has written the code number on the unit, its generated based on the serial number of the radio, not something you can change.

First step is to get the codes read - an off the shelf obd code reader should work for this, can be picked up cheaper than running into the dealers. You may need some guidance on what to do with what error its detecting, but if the engine light is coming on whilst driving there will be a fault causing it (could be something simple once you know what part is giving the fault it should be easier for someone to point you in the right direction.

try this (same topic, original link not working) http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/15673-how-do-you-program-the-key-fob-to-a-2007-galaxy/&do=findComment&comment=129997

unless there is rapid flashing nothing to worry about - if its running you can ignore it, rapidly flashing (like alternating between states so its on-off-on-off in around a second) when trying to start would indicate the immobiliser isn't deactivating, which would possibly be the relay issue mentioned above.

Additional to above as i now can't edit it - It may be worth looking at the bushes listed on eurocarparts to start with, as if they are listed as available theres a good chance those are the common ones to fail, looking at my reg shows the one labelled as 8 is available, as well as what i'd suspect is the number 4 bush shown (theres 4 of those - i'd suspect the other one is at the other point on that arm where bolt 26 goes through, with the same on the other side.

Can't see an adjustment on the parts diagram - though you say front mounts were shot, theres two of what looks the same on the rear, any idea what state these are in. Number 3 on the attached. Other thoughts - are the springs correctly located - does the car sit level? (don't think you have had springs done, but they may have been disturbed when shocks were done?) Though would have thought the garage would have noticed something like that anyway. From memory when i did have my Galaxy in at the same place for the alignment the back was fine (surprising in itself given some of the stuff thats been in the back of it) and just the front needed adjustment. I don't recall seeing any adjustment points though from when i've been under it. Also have you had a look at the rear arb bits - numbers 11 and 12 on here (not links in this case, but bushes) Having a further look number 4 bush is listed as eccentric - meaning it must be adjustable as to position, i would guess this is where you can set alignment from.

I'd see if you can at least check the level yourself first - Theres a level plug on the bottom of the box, if nothing comes out when you remove it (its a 2 part bolt, the inner one is the level, the whole thing allows draining) then topping up may help, equally it may be worth slowly removing the drain plug to let a little bit out to assess what sort of state it is in, as it may be worth changing it. If you can find a garage you can trust to do it then great, but be aware some may give you the run around on doing it, so I'd consider either trying it yourself (instructions are on here - see if this matches what you can see on the car - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/6103-autobox-and-vag-com/&do=findComment&comment=42665 or this http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/5899-autobox-oil-change/&do=findComment&comment=40671 ) if so then at least checking the level should be fairly easy, note the comment there about 14mm and 24mm bolts. At least if you've seen what came out in the first place you will know if they have done what you've asked for.

not a problem - its hard to judge what may or may not be relevent - the solenoids when i was looking were about £90 by the time they were delivered, but that was from the USA off ebay. This details changing the solenoids > http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/ford-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-09a-automatic-gearbox-failure-to-upshift-when-cold/#sthash.4SPc6uhc.dpbs I doubt its the cause though - if it is gearbox related its more likely to be the oil (not enough, or its gone bad or both). Its possible to check levels etc - the FAQ section on here details that. It would also make sense that temperature would make a difference if the transmission oil (ATF) has gone bad, as it turns to tar which will thin a bit once its warmed.

That sounds very like the issues i had on the Mondeo after replacing a bent rear wishbone (discovered after buying it). not sure how the galaxy adjusts, on the Mondeo it was a case of new bushes on the rear, and some replacement bolts (the ones on the top of the wishbones have a cam on the top of them to allow adjustment). I fixed it with a mate by making the adjustments able to be moved (by replacing the bolts in my case) and replacing the bushes, then getting it setup on a 4 wheel alignment. Think i had to go with a full set of new tyres at the same time, these were mainly worn out at the time anyway but it improved it dramatically (it would pull to the left when you went over any of the paint on the road prior to this)

Got to be worth a try if your stuck for any other options, though check the door led first as if thats flashing then its probably relating to the immobiliser/relay. hard for anyone to say for sure without seeing it first hand, but given its a diesel it may be not cranking as fast as it should do. Could also be a lack of compression - a compression test wouldn't be a bad idea if you've got access to get one done, this may show up a lack of cranking speed if you have a benchmark to work to. What soft of milage is on the car?

Doubt its fuel related then. whats the led on the drivers door doing whilst this is the case?

You never mentioned it was an auto, no idea if the symptoms you've got would indicate that, though would expect revs to go up regardless? Theres instructions either on here or the other forum about the n92 solenoid change, as i was looking at them when considering another galaxy a while ago, but decided against it at the time. I don't have an auto so haven't had to change that solenoid or deal with the auto box, so can't suggest on that. Though i'd expect a gearbox not changing due to solenoids to log a fault. It may be worth unplugging your new maf and seeing if theres any improvement in that state (its supposed to default to a standard map in that state, if this seems like an improvement then it suggests the maf isn't working properly), I gather the maf can get contaminated from poor quality air filters - if you have the old one it may be worth having a look at if its covered with anything on the sensor. The pattern maf sensors don't have the best reputation unfortunately. Can your mate see any sensor data for the maf - it may be worth trying to run it under load to see what comes up.

What are you trying to fix - tyre wear or bad handling? 4 wheel alignment may help, though unless theres a reason the back is out (replacement of parts a possibility, or damage to bits, otherwise they don't tend to move)

VCDS is the diagnostic software you'd use to access the engine management - it will show you errors as well as sensor values. You can download the lite version for free from ross-tech, but need a lead to use it with (plugs into the socket under the ashtray) and a laptop or computer to run the software on (laptop is easier as you can take it to the car unless you can get the car close enough to the computer of course). Example lead £4.89 off ebay, many available there to chose from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBD2-409-1-USB-Cable-VAG-COM-OBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-VW-Audi-Seat-VCDS-UK-Stock-/181792604553 Suggest you download the latest version of vcds lite though, and use the drivers off the disc that comes with the lead. Note that whilst the Galaxy isn't listed (or the Sharan for that matter) that the Alhambra is listed, and all 3 are the same vehicle underneath in the diesel form (its just trim and badges that differ, the Ford diesels are VW engines!) The other possibility is the MAF - I know you've changed it already, but where was the replacement one from? New or used? Any idea what brand is on the sensor? The lack of power going uphill is likely the same issue as the lack of power at cold anyway, Parking sensors seem to fail - theres many posts on here about testing them, but won't have anything to do with what your currently dealing with.

Shouldn't need one - theres a pump in the tank on the galaxy (which is not always the case with diesels). There isn't anywhere for it to leak back to really once the system is sealed so non-return valve shouldn't be needed as it can only leak into the diesel left in the tank (so you'd end up with a pipe full of diesel either way unless the tank was completely empty) A Leak further up could be causing problems though, or a blockage on the pickup for that matter. Though this wouldn't usually occur with a blockage (they tend to cause the car to cut out once its started). a leak allowing air to get in to the system could be causing it - the delay will be the system purging via the injectors if thats the case. Does it fail to start when you try to restart from running (within say 5 seconds of shutting the engine off?). When it does it does the led on the drivers door flash rapidly? It could be relay 109 type issues though these usually randomly occur (this is more likely if it doesn't do it every time, though solder joints can fail in ways that give consistent faults, they are usually more random), if the door led is doing anything odd then it may be worth digging into the fusebox to check if you haven't any other ideas? If you can find which hose supplies the filter and disconnect it you should be able to see whats happening (you will need someone to turn the key, and suggest you have something to catch the diesel that comes out of the hose - you should see it pump for a few seconds if the engine isn't running, it may take a moment to refill the line though as you've opened the end of it).

Might be worth checking the fuel filter - it could be full of water and need draining, colder weather can allow it to freeze up in this state. Also worth looking if you do decide to open it up for what comes out - Diesel should flow out in good order, if water comes out then best to repeat it a couple of times till it seems to clear up. If its not been changed in some time you might be best to change it anyway. Given its when its hot then it shouldn't be glowplug related. Needs addressing really before you burn out the starter motor though. Does it sound like its cranking slowly or at normal speed? Other possibility as its a mk2 is that the fusebox melting - it would be a good idea to check that, as it maybe failing to energise part of the system. Theres various posts on here about the meltdown issue.

I'd look into VCDS if you don't find anything obvious then - if the temp sensor is reading incorrectly that will show it, and work out far cheaper than randomly swapping out bits hoping to find the culprit (if its a sensor causing it of course!) Do you get any excessive smoke from the exhaust on startup?

Mk2 looks like this > http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/images/galaxy3.gif MK3 looks like this > http://www.talkford.com/community/page/Ford%20Bible/Ford%20Galaxy%20Mk3%20Bible If its the mk2 then your in the right section - You don't mention if its petrol or diesel though, I'd suspect its diesel from what detail you've given. Rather than swapping parts it might help to get a look at the data its showing - VCDS will allow you to do this, it will be a case of first checking for fault codes, if theres none there (likely unless you have the engine light on the dash on when its running) then you should be able to monitor the engine sensors to see what output they are showing, temp ones should be fairly obvious if they are wrong, others its a case of knowing what they should be showing to know if they are wrong or not. Note that the problem could be the wiring to the sensors (a poor connection may get better with temperature) as well as the sensors themselves - have a look at the wiring to see if you can see any damage to them. If it isn't a mk2 then vcds will not help - you will need a normal obd2 reader for those, as you will for petrol mk1/2's for the engine side of things. It might help to post back with some more details before going any further (you can get the model off the ford Etis using your reg > https://www.etis.ford.com/ click vehicle lookup and fillout the reg field, it should show model on the following page