BrianH

Check the com port allocated in device manager on windows, set it to com4 or lower to start with (any one not already used by something else there should be fine). You also need the ignition on (position 2) but doesn't need to have engine running. Screenshots of the error your getting might help (printscreen key on keyboard then paste into paint and save)

If its only the dash I'd try removing the dash clocks and reseat the connector on the back (make sure its locked down fully while your there). The mk1 its a case of a couple of screws and then pull the surround out, then remove 4 screws round the clocks themselves. I think the mk2 is pretty similar in that respect

Yep thats the one I'd have pointed you towards! When you get your cable use the drivers that come on the disc with the cable, and the current version of VCDS lite downloaded from Ross-tech (the cables tend to come with older versions on the disc).

Theres been other posts on the gearbox - First step is check the fluid before anything else. If its either low or in poor condition top it up or drain as much as you can and replace it is usually the best way to approach (instructions on here to do so under the faq section). Certainly won't cost anything beyond the time to check and the fluid itself. If you want some sort of idea why its going into limp mode then get hold of a suitable cable for use with VCDS lite - You can usually pick them up on ebay for less than an Tenner, and that will give you the fault code thats causing the limp mode, search for the code on here and with any luck you will find someone whos already had that issue and what they did to fix it. Whilst its a common issue there can be many causes for it, alot of them simple but you need some idea where to start looking really. You'd just need a laptop to plug into the car (or a computer that you can get close enough to reach would also work!) and the free version of VCDS from Ross-Tech.

Engine bay fusebox check it hasn't started melting would be a good start. Posts on here with the fix if it has done.

pop the bonnet open and look below the windscreen wiper area (theres a panel there, you may have a panel covering the front on a mk2 so may not be able to see it straightaway) but its the area between the panel and the wiper panel. Theres a drain fitting which is poorly designed and catches the leaves etc that build up in there, causing it to block and fill with water, Removing the drain piece and clearing the built up debris is the usual fix. Its around the area of the pollen filter, if thats got soaked it would be a good idea to replace it whilst your there once you have the cause for water buildup sorted. its worth noting that the carpet can hold a lot of water before its noticable that its wet, Does your rear washer work?? If not there a join in the pipework hidden under the door panel which can come apart, this will result in you pumping washer fluid onto the carpet from underneath every time the rear wiper is used. I would guess this is what you had to fix to make the washer work?? If its got wet you need to investigate if that wiring is corroded and fix it if so (replace corroded bits by soldering in new pieces, insulate from each other and the car body, and sort the reason for it being wet and dry it out).

To be fair Brian, it is a Ford Galaxy forum! :P Sorry, couldn't resist. ;) There were some changes to the Sharan/Alhambra after Ford left the project, including the new 2.0 PD diesel and electrical system changes to remove the Ford bits, particularly PATS. Yep - An MPV forum that seems to get almost as many posts about performance parts as problems! Removing the Ford bits would make sense and as you say its a Galaxy forum although the occasional owner of the other badges does find their way here.

The cause of the melting is a bad crimp - you need to solder the ring connector to the wire to resolve it really if you haven't already done so (it gets hot due to poor contact and then causes the melting to happen). I would suggest you need to have a look at the lights themselves if your sure all the wires have been addressed. There is clearly a short circuit somewhere causing the fuse to blow. Is your passenger side front carpet wet? Does the rear washer work? Theres a joint in the cables under the carpet in the front passenger side that can become corroded if the carpet has got wet (common issue caused either by leaking rear washer, or blocked scuttle drains)

Agree with that - Pattern CV joints just don't last as well. The one i replaced on the galaxy was a used original one off ebay with new boots, thats been fine. I think the bolt came with the cv boot if i remember correctly if thats what you need to replace. You really need to know what he thinks is wrong with it (is it that the clips has come off/boot has come apart or is the ring broken as Paul has said?

That's okay, it's not very clear which section is which. Us old stagers know where everything is. I just thought you would be more likely to get a response in the other section. Ooops! Sorry, bit of a 'forum virgin' and did not realise I was in the wrong section, will repost in the MK3 section. Thanks. The mk2 Sharans and Alhambra range continues upto 2010 - and the diesels are effectively the same vehicle with different badges (petrol ones similar besides the engine) so its not as clear a distinction between the mk2 and mk3. But yes you have much more chance under the mk3 section as the mk3 is what you've got and shares nothing besides the name with the Galaxy!

Could be - easiest way to tell is going to be to get hold of a vcds lead and look at the diagnostics. Failing that inspect each sensor and ring in turn, including the wiring near to the wheel. Given how cheaply a lead can be picked up for I'd start with that if I was in your position, saves a lot of guessing for less than a Tenner! I finally got round to taking it in for a diagnostics - lad I know owns a lead. It came back as front right abs ring and the guy mentioned the cv joint has caused error so new cv joint he recommends, waiting on a price. Anyone know If it's a costly job? Depends how much the joint costs - which depends on the quality of it. If the joint is ok but the boot is damaged I'd just change the boot and put a new ring on if required, if the joint is already moving or making noise then replacing it is the way to go. You should be able to get an idea on prices by looking under your reg number on eurocarparts.com or similar.

I'd have said you have a problem with the stalk then given you have 2 faults now unless you haven't looked at the boot door wiring. You may be able to cure it with some contact cleaner if you can get any into it if its the stalk. If you can find the pinout of it you should be able to test with a multimeter, the alternative would be to replace it to see if it helps. It may be worth taking the cowling off first and checking the plug is properly plugged in/unplug and reseat it as a first step if the boot wiring is ok (which given its a Galaxy is unlikely!) The door open bit makes me think its more likely to be shorted wires in the boot personally.

Think you'd be looking at taking the inside trim panel off at that side? Thats the only access i know of to access the rear heater in mine (no rear air con) You might want to check the drain on it is clear first - it must come through there somewhere, you may be able to clear it with a straw or similar item, or may find its trapped in some way that causes water to build up in the unit.

Injector harness on some of the mk2s have been known to produce faults somewhat like the second bit you mention. Is it a MK2 you have or a MK3 (2006 could be either). mk2 would have a flat floor inside the back looking from the boot, mk3 is more like a normal car in the back - the floor drops down under the middle seats

No sign of any problem - suspect it was actually a driveshaft causing it to generate a noise like a b52!, though car had other issues anyway (i'd been given it a couple of years ago to use for spares for mine which has since got to the point where the sills have parted company with the rest of the car, so isn't going to be back on the road). suspected the box as when we drained it it was full of Red ATF rather than the expected gear oil, but no signs of any debris etc there to indicate any sort of fault

If you'd asked a couple of months ago i could have looked at the knackered similar box I'd got off a Mondeo we were getting rid of! (the box was making a horrible noise somewhere on the output, we'd only taken it apart as we wanted to know what the source of the noise was and the car was being scrapped at any rate)

Could be - it may also be the actual tyres fitted to the wheels causing the noise. Anyway at least you know whats caused it!

if it is coolant you should be able to tell the difference by the smell? if you put something clean under where it drips from (washing up bowl, preferably a white one!) you should be able to match it to the coolant. Does yours have rear air con?

Not a lot to suggest here but you might have better luck in the mk3 section as thats what you've got. I seem to remember seeing a post about the same thing there a while ago?

Are the alloys original fit or aftermarket? The oem ones would work with the same wheelnuts, aftermarket ones may have a different seat to the bolt where it contacts the wheel. That might account for your noise?

If you want to look whats on the other side a boroscope camera should be able to get through the fill hole. Bear in mind the gearbox is similar to other ones used across the Ford range of vehicles. Why do you want to know what it is? a problem or just curiosity?

Ah that would explain it good to know just in case it crops up again! No idea on the turbo as i don't have one to look at, Can't you use a jubilee clip rather than a screw to "bodge" it together? To me there shouldn't be oil in the intercooler if all is working well, but on older engines its hardly unusual. Theres loads of diesel owners on here so hopefully one of them will be able to assist though. new topic for that might be your best bet though since its nothing to do with the brakes now.

Either a scrapyard and find one suitable, or find one being broken up on ebay or similar and ask if its available?

Sensible first step! You mention Drive - so its probably an auto gearbox, Checked the ATF level recently? Info on the faq on doing so. Given you say its temp related then the ATF would be a likely candidate. You may want to drain a bit off and inspect what sort of condition its in. If its the turbo (unlikely given what you've said above) then you should hear it at the same sort of rev range.

Sounds to me like the thermostat is blocked/jammed or the radiator is blocked. I'd remove the thermostat as a first step and see if that allows the coolant to flow and heat the currently cold section of hose - if it doesn't then next step is going to be to drop the radiator out and flush it - if you struggle to get anything to go through it at this point you'd be best to replace it (you may want to do so anyway as it could still be partially blocked, but at least this would give you a good idea if it is blocked). Does yours have a run on pump and does it work? (info on here relates to the booster heater should explain finding it, if its failed no codes will be logged for it doing so, but if its working you should be able to hear it after you shut the engine off for approx 20 seconds. Would doubt its the sensor for the fan (petrol ones use a sensor in the hose, but same applies) - as if you say its in the radiator and the radiator isn't hot that suggests its doing what it should. They are usually a simple 2 pin switch so you may be able to connect the two sides together to test the fan itself, but be aware some will directly feed the fans with power so the wire can get hot if its too small (don't do it for long just give it a quick test to see).