SilverBeast

Diesel Smoke colour link

Oil smoke is usually a blue colour, black is I believe too much diesel or not enough air. If you can also hear a whoosh you didn't have before I would guess one of your pipes on the turbo is loose/leaking. Most likely between turbo and manifold so turbo to intercooler or intercooler to inlet manifold. They are in several sections and can be different depending on output power and "MK". I only have experience of my MKII TDI 130. I have had the bracket on the outlet of the intercooler loose (garage fitted wrong screws when they replaced the radiator) and didn't fit the short rubber hose from the intercooler to near the Fuel filter correctly myself once. It looked in place but the clip wasn't holding it so it blew under pressure and then sat back down again with engine off.

I used a mobile specialist who came out to do it in my garage. I saved some money by doing the mechanical strip down/reassembly (to provide access) myself. Details the top posting here He found the leak, which a couple of other places hadn't been able to while he was regassing my wife's Fiesta. Measured up what was needed and came back a couple of weeks later to fix it. More details of what was done part way down this thread.

Mine both work! Air con cost £160 to fix a broken pipe and regas. Aux Heater I ended up buying a used one that had only had 6 months of service before being removed from previous vehicle, as my original seems to have a faulty controller PCB. I suggest a VCDS-Lite lead from ebay for under £10 and the free VCDS-Lite software from RossTech for starters as this should help with the diagnosis for just about all your electrical systems (apart from immobiliser I think).

Did you check the wiring in the gaitors? Any other electrical systems not working properly? Central Locking? Electric Windows? Brake Lights? Heated Rear Window? Rear wiper?

The download for VCDS-LITE 1.2 (this is the free one you can use with the reader I linked in the ebay listing) is at the bottom of this page. This is the site of the software authors Ross-Tech. As I said before MAKE SURE YOU USE THE DRIVERS SUPPLIED WITH YOUR INTERFACE. These usually need installing before you plug it into your laptop, instructions for doing this should be supplied with the interface. VCDS replaced VAG-COM. VCDS-Lite is the free version that can be used with third party interfaces (ie not those manufactured by Ross-Tech). It lets you read most things. If you need more functionality there are various versions and upgrade paths. For most users (including myself) VCDS-LITE is all that will be required.

Mine is a 2005. It works with that. It will work with all the diesel and V6 galaxies up to the point ford changed to their own design around 2006. It should also work with Sharans and Alhambras until they replaced the chassis much later

This one on ebay says it works with Windows 7/8. Note it's not the VCDS-LITE that has issues with the Windows versions it's the drivers supplied with the lead that need to be compatible. It's only £5.95. Don't worry that it doesn't include the Galaxy in the list. As you are no doubt aware the Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra were all built by VW and the 1.9TDI is a VW engine.

(i) Auxillliary fuse box under battery cover at front for overheating of the cable crimps on the "fat" wires. Probably not this but an easy check and a common point of failure. (ii) Check door gaitors and tailgate wiring gaitor (the one on the right when viewed from the back of the vehicle). More likely as shorts between cables may have flattened your battery. Do the lights flash when you brake or maybe go over a bump? Damage to the wiring in the gaitors causes a lot ot unexpected and weird effects. Again a common fault.

What year and engine is it? MKi or MKII?

I seem to recall someone saying that Ford/VW reversed the wiper positions at some point. My 2005 has the Passenger wiper park above the Drivers wiper. If I am correct some of the earlier ones parked Drivers above the Passengers. If you have a mechanism that is reversed from what you had originally, then you may find that the wiper arms are different too. The 2004 Ford TIS CD shows wiper alignment to be setup like this for models I believe after September 2000

Repair instructions I did for mine here. I was fortunate enough not to need to repair my cables as I replaced the cable to the alternator when I replaced the fuse box.

Did you replace the whole linkage including the motor, or swap the motor from one linkage to another? You need to disconnect the motor from the linkage and then "run" it and turn it off so that it "parks". You then need to reconnect the arms on the linkage. This shows a MKII three bolt assembly so you can have a look at the position of all the bits and includes instructions on setting up again.

I believe you can tell by the number of bolts holding the linkage to the body. Mines a MKII and uses three bolts, one at each side and one in the middle. I understand the MKI's used 2 bolts. This guide shows a MKII.

Common fault. Replace fuse box. You probably need to replace alternator cable (top one) you may get away with cutting back cable and using a butt joint and suitable welding cable (150A minimum). Whatever you do solder the cable onto the contract on the end, the fault is caused by poor crimps. I wrote a post on the FAQs on fordmpv.com when I replaced mine

It's done that on my Nexus 4 phone for a while (and my HUDL 2). Double tap on the "shrunk" page and it should expand so the width fits across the screen.

No trouble. Glad we could help. Just in time for the heatwave..............

Forgot to say. There seem to be variable reviews for the Kwik-Fit service, and make sure you tell them how much refridgerant/compressor oil they should install as the label near the filler lists the volumes for both Single and Dual air-con which may confuse them as despite the adverts, some operators are NOT experts in air-con and just know how to run the automatic machine and can't diagnose faults. A so called air-con/electrical specialist garage couldn't diagnose mine, but the mobile air-con guy I was lucky enough to find diagnosed mine very quickly, as we could both hear the compressed Nitrogen leaking from a common failure point under the headlight surround. To be fair this may have been easier in my own quiet garage, rather than in a workshop with other cars around, and in my experience at least a radio also blaring out!

Just been out and checked on my 2005 TDI 130, which also has Dual air-con. As it's just me I can't tell if it starts the fan at the same time as the compressor, or after the compressor has started. You fan may not be spinning because the compressor isn't running rather than the compressor not starting because the fan isn't running. I assume you have a single (like I have) as I understand some (earlier?) models had dual fans. I would guess that the system has had a leak at some point an lost all the refridgerant. Unless there was over 1Kg of refridgerant in the can you used it probably hasn't got enough in it. I suggest your next step would be to find a good mobile air-con guy (which I was fortunate enough to do) who will come out, extract all existing fluids and test the system for leaks before refilling. He (or she I to be PC) should also be able to diagnose it if there is a fault. Mine charged me £20 for diagnosing, as he was refilling my wifes car at the time, and I think £40-45 to do the above to my wifes car. Alternatively I understand Kwik-Fit will plug in their machine which should do all the above automatically, they won't charge you unless it improves your cooling at the vents by more than 10%. Details here and a voucher code from here to get it from £49 if you do need to pay.

Easiest to tell if it's spinning by looking at the bolt heads on the opposite side of the pulley from compressor. You can do this from above - though a torch helps to be able to see them properly. Has it just stopped working, or has it never work since you got the vehicle? I never had any faults I could see on VAG-COM on mine even when it was totally empty. I don't think you can really tell by using a pressure guage, The system really needs all the fluids extracting and weighing to tell if there is enough refridgerant. At which point it should also have a vacuum and then pressure test for leaks, before being re-filled with the correct amount of refridgerant as specified next to the fill point. (1050g + some compressor oil from memory as yours is dual air-con with rear roof vents). I used a mobile specialist eventually who came out and diagnosed mine when he refilled the wifes fiesta. He then ordered bits to repair faulty pipe and I stripped it down to give access to the pipe that needed repairing. He came back and repaired/refilled/tested it. We put it back together while it was pressure/vacuum testing and I completed assembly after the repair had been proved.

Sorry - reread title and not just post. So it's a diesel. - DUH If you get a VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE lead from ebay (<£10) then you will be able to read all the electrical systems for faults, which may help. It doesn't find the relay issue I mentioned above though. See here for relay details

What year/engine do you have? petrol/diesel Worth adding to your registered details and to you "signature" that appears at the bottom of all your posts. There is a common problem with a relay that gets dry joints. This allows the engine to turn over but not start. On the MKII diesels (which I have), if there is an immobiliser issue it will fire up and run for around a second an then cut out, I wouldn't try and bypass the immobiliser as it isn't simple and I doubt that that is the issue itself.

Does the light flash with either of the buttons? Is it both that aren't working.

Welcome. ........you do realise your "new Ford" is really a VW don't you? I'd imagine it's ideal for parcel delivery - you can even read the labels easily with the light from all the windows. Mine'll be in van guise next week when I bring my son back from London! He's been there a year and this is how much he had when I took him down there.

Just be very careful not to lose the PATS chip when you take it apart or it won't disable the immobiliser anymore!