chrispb123456

Where's me bit of pie then!! a large portion please ;)

2.8 is a chain not a belt

Hi Zorgman just been looking at that site as you say there's tons of info on there and easy to understand :)

Hi there Good MPG depends on a few factors . 1. How heavy footed you are erratic driving, stop & start heavy braking & wheel spin pull aways wont do much for saving fuel. 2.How well is the car running? fully serviced regularly? tyre pressures, I always set my trip meter to zero when filling tank, on local journeys ie, back and fourth to work general running around I can get anywhere from 430 to 500 miles out of a tank, when I go to Germany several times a year I get 580 to 600 miles from a tank full. If you have the trip computer on yours instead of having it on average consumption set it on instantaneous this changes every two seconds it shows you just how light footed you have to be.

Blimey Greg 3/6d thats about 40 years ago :) ;)

Hi there and welcome andyorlow Your replying to a 2 year+ old post you need to start a "new topic" then describe your problem giving as much information as possible + year, model, engine. :)

Hi Paul hope this is usefull

Hi there As previous member has said check fuses. If they are OK remove radio using the special keys, on the back of some radio's you will see a fuse there, if that one is OK remove the power lead plug, with the ignition on you should have 2 wires with 12v one is a pemanent live the other is from ignition switch if that is OK then its proberbly the radio duff

Hi Paul While I dont disbelieve what you have been told by your garage there is no problem with the TDI cooling system as far as bleeding is concerned I drained mine when I removed booster heater several times and each time on refilling with coolant I then starting the engine after a few minutes you see a few bubbles then suddenly you notice the bottle has emptied,top up again a few more bubbles then thats it put cap back on job done. After you have drove car and thermostat has opened usually next time you check the level its gone down an inch or so, top that up and thats it I never have to top up after that. Iv'e never had cause to use a pressure tester on the cooling system only to check the cap. I will only say that if there's bubbles rising up to the bottle then the engine is pumping air and by what you have already said if that was my car the head would already be off but thats my opinion, I wont post on your thread anymore but keep the site updated when you do sort it. ;)

could be water been getting in down there in the past. or still.(common problem) You may find that relay is knackered but try the plugs first, maybe the wires could be soldered onto the relay if you cant get the plugs?

Hi and welcome mojojames It sound very much like timing is out, you say you just bought it? was it like that when you first drove it? May be quicker to get codes read can make diagnosis easier

Hi there found this earlier may be worth a try if you havn't already

Hi there This link will show you what you need, you dont need to remove door card. Curious as to why steering wheel in now out, changing shaft would not affect that. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ost&p=35344

Oops sorry about that Kev's right, Iv'e still got that banoffee pie on my mind LOL

Hi there These are the usual thread for M6 for 10mm spanner. size M8 for 13mm spanner size. M10 17mm spanner size. but dont hold me to it as some makers use a non standard thread

Hi again you can test to see if the pumps working by just switching on the ignition without starting, the pump should start after about 15 seconds then if you turn key off it should run for about 10 mins. this pump runs continuous all the time your driving, do you notice that the booster heater keeps stopping and starting also the rear heater keeps blowing cold. Mine packed up at 85,000 and I think youl'l find thats the norm. Check on the FAQ section for DIY repair usually brushes worn out

hi again Just to double check on that ign switch it may be worth unpluging it instead of the battery just incase power relay is stuck in. Get someone to pump the pedal up and down a few times quickly then hold it down, then crack open the bleed nipple and close it before lifting off clutch pedal dont forget to top up reservoir.

check see whether the chip is still in the key they can fall out when you remove the push button

Hi there havn't spoken lately on your thread was just wondering why was the head taken off and yes you guessed was the problem there before removal

The booster heater is located under the car by the N/S/Rear passenger door makes a noise like a jet engine when its working properly, you wont here it when temp is above approx 10 deg c. The run on pump is behind and over the engine that would proberbly sound like its behind the battery. I would just clear the faults you have found if there's no other problem and see if they return at a later time.

Hi and welcome to the site Mbateman you say you disconnect the battery to extinguish lights what happens when you reconnect, are they still on or does it seem back to normal. It does sound more like a dodgy ignition switch? There is a device called the run on pump this continues to run after engine is turned off usually about 5 to 10 mins to circulate the coolant. The central locking problem can be the wiring in the drivers door to door pillar, the constant opening closing of the drivers door breaks the wiring this is a common problem, also the central locking relay is under the passenger seat check to make sure its dry under there this is another common problem. The clutch sounds like you have air in the system.

I wouldn't whack it Jay you may need more than a new pulley use a long flat bar to lever

Hi yes they may look a copper colour but they are steel the top one is quite visible the bottom one not so, they are in the alternator not the bracket, some penetrating oil may help and left overnight. I didn't have a problem getting mine off the car, just made sure to tap the sleeve outward before refitting to the car. In fact had to take it off and on twice because shop had ordered in the pulley but was the wrong one,so had to put it back for 2 days, I would say it took 10 mins to remove initially.

it's alright, it's not illegal to have a worn tyre as a spare :( Exhaust looks nice does it sound like a 10 litre Cummins if it does i'll have one. LOL

Hi Jayton Sounds like the two sliding sleeves have seized in the alternator flanges I would suggest a long flat bar and lever it away from the engine. Once you get it off you should be able to free them. Also that bolt that holds the pulley on is extremly tight, I took mine into alternator repair shop they have tool for holding pulley without damaging it.