chrispb123456

Hi there looking at your photo you havn't gone far enough into fuse box, follow billywizzo,s instructions.

Hi there If yo go to FAQ section number 1 topic then go to page 6 there are pictures to help. there are some small torx screws so you will need tools these handy before you start

Thanks.I can clear the fault codes.Will this mean that the aux heater will work or will I require parts ? Hi there I would say you at least need a new glow plug if you havn't had smoking problem in the past, if you do a lot of start stop driving the booster heater units can get sooted up and may physically need a strip down to clean out combustion chamber etc. Once new plug is fitted after clearing codes should start providing outside air temp is low enough, usually below approx 10 deg c on mk2 or 5 deg c on mk 1 or you can bridge terminals of thermal switch.

Hi there can we have some vehicle/engine details and where are you getting the coolant temp from? when the coolant temp guage starts at 50 deg c

Hi there have you checked the ABS sensors and the rings on cv joints they do crack and drop off.

I take it you sorted your broken auxilary belt was it just broken or had a pulley seized I did try sending you a picture of belt diagram but you only received the text which didnt make much sense without the pic, have since sorted pic problem. I think your right to get a new/recon starter. Tapping starter is never a permanent fix if it works at all.

Hi only picture I can see with a 4 bolt flange is for German market only and thats integral turbo part of manifold. no picture for the early 90ps engine, the 110 ps engine with the three bolt flange has no gasket between turbo and manifold its possible then yours has no gasket there only on the outlet flange.

Hi is the light on the dash switch flashing? can be bad connection broken wire or damaged sensor

Hi Have a look here www.brakeparts.co.uk online catalogue

Hi there start the engine from cold with radiator cap removed top up to the max level watch for air bubbles being expelled, if there are and continueous also does the coolant start to rise and spew over, most likely cause is head gasket or worst case craked cylinder head. You dont necessarily get water in oil or oil in water you may be losing water into the exhaust. This is assuming no other leaks in system, dont forget the pipes under car going to booster heater and rear compartment heater. :rolleyes:

Hi there As Mirez was saying the condenser/drier assembly is prone to leaks, I had mine changed four years ago and had it serviced/re-gassed last May with no problems. Initially cost

Hi there On a long drive I can easily get up to the 45 mpg thats at a steady 70 mph I do run to Germany a few times a year it does just over 500 miles on a full tank. I wouldn't trust the light for 100 miles. :(

Hi there firstly there's no link between the outside air temp guage on the dash that sensor is behind front bumper. The booster heater outside air sensor switch is suppose to operate between 5 and 10 deg C and its located on the right hand side of the wiper linkage. I have had the same where heater comes on at a higher temperature than 10 deg C. Nothing to worry about. :(

hi Hopefully then you havn't got a matrix problem you need to check them drain holes could be full of dead leaves an rubbish which will cause rainwater to enter the heater giving off steam when engine warms up, if its got aircon worth changing pollen filter while scuttle is out.

Good luck with vag com cant get mine to work right

Hi again you will then need to remove the scuttle tray located under the wiper motor its held on by three bolts once that is remove it will give you better access you will then need an old wire coat hanger to dig out the drain holes on each side then wash the holes down with hose or can, water should be seen coming out behind plasti wheel arch. You mentioned the thermostat is the engine running cold or is it overheating?

Hi could be something simple like the scuttle drains blocked or your heater matrix is leaking? have you lost or losing coolant? does the level keep going down. :(

Hi again Obviously car needs to be level when your checking it and also has to be between 35deg C and 45 deg C. Now the level plug depends on whether the gearbox has a lower cover ( rectangular ish plate with 9 bolts ) or not. For cars with the lower cover the level plug is immediatly behind the drain plug and is a torx type head. For cars with no lower cover it is the plug forward of the drain plug. Start car when you have got the fluid to the correct temp either by using Vag-Com to check temp or running car for about 20-25 mins and and after working through all the gears several times place lever in Park, remove the appropriate level plug, there will be a small amount of fluid in the tube (about a thimble full) if fluid continues to run out then its overfilled wait until it stops then replace the plug, job done. If only a small amount came out you will need to put some in the filler until fluid comes out then again wait till it stops then replace level and filler plugs. If your unsure about which plug/gearbox type I have some pictures unfotunately this system wont allow me to upload them yet but if you think you might need them I could email them to you if you give me your email address. cheers Chris Managed to pics of transmission hope thats of help

Hi again Obviously car needs to be level when your checking it and also has to be between 35deg C and 45 deg C. Now the level plug depends on whether the gearbox has a lower cover ( rectangular ish plate with 9 bolts ) or not. For cars with the lower cover the level plug is immediatly behind the drain plug and is a torx type head. For cars with no lower cover it is the plug forward of the drain plug. Start car when you have got the fluid to the correct temp either by using Vag-Com to check temp or running car for about 20-25 mins and and after working through all the gears several times place lever in Park, remove the appropriate level plug, there will be a small amount of fluid in the tube (about a thimble full) if fluid continues to run out then its overfilled wait until it stops then replace the plug, job done. If only a small amount came out you will need to put some in the filler until fluid comes out then again wait till it stops then replace level and filler plugs. If your unsure about which plug/gearbox type I have some pictures unfotunately this system wont allow me to upload them yet but if you think you might need them I could email them to you if you give me your email address. cheers Chris

Really??.... pass me my rose coloured specs......

Hi again what year is it and is it the 4 or 5 speed as the drain and level plugs are different

Hi there does your wiring kit utilize the second warning light for indicators on the dash when connected to your trailer?

Hi just a thought has this model got the emergency fuel shut off? may need the button pushing back if it has, check in the handbook

Hi there you say you drained some fluid out, what was the condition of the fluid? it should be a cherry red colour and quite runny not thick and brown or black in colour and do you know the correct procedure for checking fluid level.