chrispb123456

Hi there Not all 2.3s have the EGR valve, if you have it it's on the intake manifold g/box end. See pic below

Hi there may be worth a trip to a local electrician it may just have a dry joint, that needs soldering.

Hi there Check out No.4 and No.66 in the FAQ section, good advice there with pics :)

Hi Redrobber welcome. The most likely cause is broken wiring in the driver door/pillar trunking, insructions for repair in FAQ section

Hi HIgs I'm sorry must have misunderstood your thread yesterday, would just say there's a lot of alley tubing under the galaxy for the rear heater, with age this pipework can get corroded, you may have a pin hole in this tubing that only shows a leak under pressure, or of course it could simply be the pressure cap. As for the booster heater smoking it's nearly always the glow plug needs changing fairly simple job to do, detailed instructions in FAQ section for changing the glow plug and cleaning out the soot. Starting the heater this time of the year you would need to bridge the terminals in the plug of the thermal switch which you had disconnected once it's running OK the plug can be reconnected then you can enjoy quicker warm ups when weather gets cold again. Part no. for the glow plug is Beru 0100,226,340 you can get these from GSF Europarts.

Hi Alane You haven't mentioned anything about the tyres. If the shoulder of your tyres are worn especially the N/S/F your car will constantly pull to the N/S this is compounded as well by the camber of the road. The most common reason for tyre wear is under inflation. Steering geometry doesn't alter on it's own, if the settings are wrong there is usually a worn joint or bush, or damage to the suspension

Did you check power steering fluid level, sounds like you had air in the system.

You can press the P switch on centre consol to cancel the warning, is also used to activate the system when approaching front sensors first

Check for broken wiring in drivers door trunking first, help in FAQ section for this

Hi there A bit puzzled why you took the time to write out/tell us your problem and just going taking it to a garage!!

Yep seems to happen when weather turns hot and the cars been parked up with the sun on it, gets better when air-cons been on for a while. Not heard of a fix but always goes back to normal at night or when weather cools down. :lol:

Think you mean locking wheel bolts not nuts ;)

Hi there You need to have the system gassed/leak checked by competant auto air-con engineer, ie not kwik fit. Compressor clutch won't kick in if pressure is low or empty

Hi there If car is engaging gear OK without engine running that would suggest clutch is not clearing and may not be related to previous problem

Hi there You havn't mentioned the position of the camshaft and injection pump, did you mark these with tipex or paint, or have you the locking tools for the cam and pump? If you have used the incorrect mark on the flywheel you will need to check the camshaft and pump position, at crankshaft TDC using the method you described to find TDC, remove cam cover, you should be able to engage a suitable size bar in the slot at the end (gearbox end) of the camshaft when it's on number 1 compression stroke, also a suitable size pin to lock the pump. In retrospect if you had aligned the cam and the pump first before removing belt you would have seen correct dimple on flywheel. Let me know if you need pictures of the checking points. ;)

Hi there welcome to the site. There are some available on Ebay! I wouldn't wait for sensors to get in touch you may have to wait a while LOL.

If you ask for a 16mm spark plug socket that will be the one.

Hi there Easy and welcome to the site. Am assuming it's the MK2 you got, the arrow on the valve faces the rear have attached photo hope that helps.

Thanks for that Greg, I'll have to rejoin the wiring inside the headlamp unit first as I disconnected them about 2 years ago for the MOT. They were both doing that whirring noise and the beams were going up and down on there own, thought it was about time I sorted them out ;)

Thanks for that chaps and you Greg I'll take one out see whether I can clean and grease it. :D

Hi there Should be a plastic cap on the end of rubber sleeve, just flip it off then you need a 7mm allan key, not all cars have the wear leads depends on the car's spec

Hi there The condenser and air drier are favourites for leaks also the pipes to and from compressor to condenser, the specialist's put the fleuresent dye in the system, helps show up any leaks

Hi there Yes your brake light switch is proberbly still faulty, as there are two sets of contacts in it, is your cruise control working?

Hi All Anyone know where you can get the headlight levelling motors for the MK2 headlights apart from Fords.

Thanks Chris,that is very helpful. I've been investigating a bit further (removed glove boxes etc and heater fan) and the flap for the recirculation is working fine - it appears it is just the vacuum switch. I took the switch apart and there is a rubber seal that appears to have gone all soft and gooey. So a new switch is needed. I also removed the control to the heat flap. Operating it by hand and it gives a satisfying clunk and an obvious change in the noise of the airflow so I think it is working 99% at least. I can get the same closing clunk if I operate the control quickly so I think it is closing properly. I did wonder about leaves but there wasn't any in the fan or evaporator housing so I think it is probably ok. It is interesting that when the engine has just warmed up I get completely cold air but when the car is then left sitting in the sun for 30 minutes the air is a bit warm. I am starting to suspect the heater is working fine (apart from the recirc) but that the whole heater is being warmed up when left (probably partly by the heater matrix and partly by the sun on the dash). Not much I can do about that and I don't think I would notice it if the aircon worked as that would then cool everything down properly. I also discovered the strange valve (ECOV?) is T'ed off the vacuum feed to the front heater (grey hose) and controls the vacuum feed to the rear heater (black hose). I guess from your comments that switching the vacuum shuts down the rear heater in some way. Anyway, it looks like a new switch and I can get the recirculation working. Then it is just a case of working out if it is worth spending 1/3 the cost of the car getting the aircon working :D Hi again your right about the ECOV operates a water valve that shuts off the rear heater, also my car is black and when the suns been on it even with the air-con on it still takes a while to start cooling down. If your near the Maidstone area I know of a good mobile air-con engineer.