chrispb123456

Relay 109 is the power relay for engine control check out this one first, also what is the LED on the drivers doing when turning key.

Nice pics Amarok ;) It's surprising how many don't realise it's there in that position, I suppose to reduce possible risks of fire in a front end collision ;)

Looks like the relay is part of the multi function unit controlled by two fuses 53 & 55

I think it was GSF car parts were doing them for

Hi Andy Number 10 on this picture goes to air filter box Number 7 is vacuum supply iirc you said you had changed from 1Z to AHU and doesn't show a connection from the N75 but it does on engine code AFN & AFG so have included both diagrams so you can check against what you got.

Hi Andy The two connections on the air cleaner box, one goes to the N75 valve the other to the N18 valve am just finding the pics will post asap.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Most things are covered in the FAQ's section in the technical section Follow this link http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=10738&view=findpost&p=86275

May be a good idea to run Vagcom, now it's had a run? Are you getting servo assistance for braking? vacuum pump needs to be working fully to supply brake servo and charge pressure controls (N75) and EGR valve and (N18)control valve.

Hi Andy Should be one of these diagrams

Hi there Least you can do is check the fluid level, instructions are on here how to do it Vagcom/VCDS lite is compatable with all modules providing you dont have the 2.0 and 2.3 petrol engines as these are Ford engines, having said that you should still be able to access auto transmission. The software for the free version is available from ross-tech http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/ http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

Hi there And welcome to the forum! I'm not familiar with this engine but do remember someone having this problem with pipes blowing off and if I remember correctly the exhaust gas is blowing the pipes off, cant remember what the conclusion was but I would guess at a faulty EGR valve or the control valve. Seems hard to believe it passed the MOT emissions test with MAF disconnected and possibly faulty CAT. The large canister thingy is probably the secondary air pump or associated valve, this is all connected to help reduce emissions. You can do a search on these items as most things have been covered at some point before.

As said it is dangerous, you could have a sudden loss of brakes leading to the inevitable.

Hi and welcome to the forum. The handbrake warning light will also stay on if the brake fluid level is low, you may have a leak but check your brake pad thickness first as worn pads will reduce the level due to displacement, if the pads are OK then suspect a leak from the system. Only the diesel engines have belts the petrol engines have chains, so if there's no noise/rattles from timing case leave it be.

14 should do it.

NO All diesels are belts, all petrols are chain

Yes when you drain these boxes you only get half the fluid out, capacity is 7 litres if you got 6 litres out then it was well over the top as 3.5 litres is about right when draining, when the fluids overfilled the fluid gets very airiated. As long as you followed the correct procedure for draining/refilling should be OK. ps. which fluid did you use?

You haven't said what year it is that would narrow it down abit, as Big Kev said it's on a label on the cambelt cover or on cylinder block with engine number. It should look like these. Mk1's. 1Z = Early 90ps, AHU = Later 90. AFN = 110 Mk2's ANU = 90. AUY = 115. ASZ = 130. ARL = 150

Hi J Have you checked the auxiliary fuse box for the meltdown syndrome.

That's great thanks. Is the N75 easy to find? Cheers, Rob Hi again On bulkhead behind fuel filter area

Hi there Check all your small vacuum hoses for perishing/splits on turbo, EGR valve, charge pressure control valve (N75) N75 may need cleaning or possible renewing.

Bloody hell Seatkid a booster heater outlasting two engines your having a laugh :unsure: :)

Hi Andy Glad it all turned out alright, hope everything else is OK on the drive :unsure: cheers Chris

Am getting a bit confused here now, are you saying you were originally using the loom that came with your new engine? but now your using the loom from your old engine? and the 12 volt is that constant with the key turned off? The black wire on the back of the ignition switch is live with ignition in the run position but what you would need to check is that it is still live when cranking the engine

Here's a copy of the ECU wiring, have circled no 53

You will need to remove the whole cluster assembly to reach the ECU