chrispb123456

MK2 TDI's only have single auxiliary drive belt with automatic tensioner, it does the alternator power steering and aircon.

Yes just the pulley, the pulley has a clutch inside which can either seize or slip this is what makes the slipping noise, this is a common fault. I got my pulley from an alternator/starter repairer, he fitted it for me so didn't have to buy the tool cost

If the belts tight it's more likely to be the alternator clutch pulley, you can change these yourself but you will need the proper tool. You cant buy just the pulley from fords but are available from factors.

You still don't appear to have answered the question "have you tried another key" because it sounds like you have lost or damaged the PATs chip.

Hi Andy Seatkid has a point about being the right one, as you have changed your engine to a different model code, although I would have thought it would need to match the engine ECU. Try removing MAF and spray the sensor with switch cleaner then let it air dry see if that changes the readings before condeming MAF.

You can get the proper piston wind back tool for the rear calipers, the piston needs to be turned and pushed at the same time, this is auto adjustment part of the caliper for the handbrake. It is advisable to clamp the flexy pipe and open the bleed nipple when winding pistons back, this is to stop dirty fluid being forced back through ABS block and master cylinder. You should bleed brakes in the normal way after refitting calipers. Workflow I would say is the order in which you complete any task. Hope thats helped. :angry2:

Many thanks for info. All I need to know is how to replace the Speaker in the front passenger door and what it's specification is. Thanks You need to remove the door card (panel) to get to the speaker instructions in FAQ's technical section, if the speakers not working or intermittant you may have chaffed/broken wires in door wiring gaiter

Copper slip is fine, when you dismantle the spindles there is an o ring and washer careful not to loose these, clean spindles with some fine emery paper.

I changed mine 3 times over a period of 2 weeks as you cant drain all the fluid in one go, I used Mercon V in mine (five speed) iirc that is the same spec as dexron III, removing the sump on the five speed doesn't serve much purpose as the filter is not in there, it can only be changed by dismantling the box.

Hi and welcome to the forum Of course the dealers will tell you that, they want you to spend

There have been a lot of fuse box meltdowns, where alternators have been blamed but high resistance in those large cables is the cause, not heard of this causing other problems but there's always a first.

I didn't post earlier was hoping someone else may respond, another member had exactly the same symptoms about a year ago but don't remember seeing a result I'll give you the description from manual. Release relay for terminal 61, additional water heater coolant circuit relay valve May be bad wiring connections or faulty alternator If it's any help I could email you the diagram for that relay PM me if you do.

Hi Tara Well done lets hope it's all done properly, when you collect car make sure they itemise exactly what they have done on the paperwork for future reference, what was the outcome of the AA report?

Hi With the palm of one hand down on the arm by the hinged area toward screen, fingers of other hand under the arm using a push pull rocking motion will losen arms.

Hi there Torx sockets are needed to remove the bolts however you will need to have the remaining gas drawn off before removal. The pipes that run by the wheel arch round the back of engine to the bulkhead also corrode and leak around the pipe clamps I have just had them 2 changed this also involved removing front bumper and O/S wheel arch liner, cost me

Sounds like your losing vacuum, start by checking the large pipe on the vacuum pump next to fuel filter, there is also a T connector where the supply for the N75 and associated pipework starts, the large pipe then goes round to the brake servo, check that connector has not split

is this a 4 or 5 speed box

Fancy getting a bar with no arms :D Hi ya M8

Hi Andy the N18 is indeed a solenoid valve it has a pulsed supply from engine ECU depending on load, losing track now of what you have done now, did you look at the condition inside EGR, make sure valve doesen't stick open, there are members that have removed the pipe to the EGR and blanked the pipe off so it stays shut all the time. Did you have a chance to look at the instrument cluster wiring regarding speedo and temp gauge also worth checking that pipe on and in the ECU also look for evidence of oil in the pipe as this may find it's way into the MAP sensor. ps. how much to register VCDS.

Hi Tara Your Galaxy is primarily a VW and yes it will work on your car. Unfortunately it wont be able to confirm head gasket failure, but will give an insight to other yet unknown to you problems. What you need to do is scan all available modules make a note or print off the codes, then clear all the faults then after a short drive rescan and see if any have come back. Good luck with the gasket problem :o http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6

Hi there I'm not going to advise one way or the other on the legal side, with what you have said about new water pump being fitted only a short time ago then the previous owner has obviously traded the car in with this overheating problem, and most likely the dealer will be unaware of this up till now. Yes the water pump may have been to blame for the initial overheating, but like the many instances on this forum alone where cars have been suffering coolant loss and/or boiling up for months even years because it only happens occasionally when on a motorway journey or towing a caravan, when the engine is under more load. Also at 94.000mls the electric run on pump also tends to pack up, it's primary purpose is to keep the coolant circulating and prevent hot spots after engine is turned off, the pump will normally be heard (slight humming) for a few minutes after switch off. You can test this easily for operation without starting engine, just turn ignition on, then off then listen in the engine bay if you cant hear it then it's not working, it's other purpose is to assist with circulation through the rear compartment heater and also the correct operation of the booster heater fitted under the car. It's a certainty the least you have is head gasket failure as you have the evidence of combustion gas in the bottle what you can't tell is whether the head is still serviceable until it's removed.

Sounds like either auxiliary belt tensioner or alternator clutch pulley

Hi Andy Meant to ask you before about the speedo, does it still record the mileage or is that dead too. ABS fault may have been an old one Does your glow plug light come on for a few seconds when you first put ignition on? and does it come on at all or flash when driving? Did you scan all the modules ie, central electrics, instruments etc Costs alot to register Vagcom, you should be able to go to Engine module then click on measuring blocks, have a look at the MAF readings see if the readings are within limits. Faulty MAF's don't always show a fault, you could try taking out the MAF and spray it with switch cleaner and let it air dry (they are delicate be careful)