chrispb123456

Hi and welcome to the forum Can you give us your engine code and the build month 1999 is not precise enough as your on a change.

4 bolts 2 nuts. 10mm socket and long extension

Remove and clean idle control valve, do a search for details on this.

Sounds like pipe is already disconnected or split where it's attached to drain tube, you will need to lower enough roof lining to check pipework.

Hi there The aircon compressor will run continuously when in the auto mode as should the cooling fans by the radiator, check make sure they are running? Was the pressures and output temperature checked with engine running. Did a specialist do the gas service or did you entrust to a pop in place like dare I say it Kwik fit.

with key removed press and hold in speedo trip knob on instrument cluster, while still holding button turn ignition on without starting engine, thats it :(

Would be a bit wary using an airline here, you may displace the pipe from the drain tube. Also a good idea to remove screws from lower edge of wheel arch liner, this is where the drain tube exits and as said can block up causing the cavity to fill up, this can also lead to rotting of the wheel arch/sill area

Hi there Running with aircon off constantly (econ) will not have done the seals any good as they tend to dry out, having said that these vehicles are prone to leaks around condensor/drier area, and now with the age of your car lt will be suffering from corroded/leaking pipes.

Hi Burg Maybe would be good idea to get yourself a Vagcom lead off Ebay and scan for any fault codes you could then print them off and take to dealer, the pump itself as Mirez said wont show a fault because it's not controlled by the heating module. Of course if you fancy a run to Kent I could do it for you :( As for asking other people, when I took mine for MOT in January I ask the tester how many Galaxy's Sharan's and Alhambra's he get's in and has heard the heater running, he replied yours is the only one iv'e ever heard running.

The headlight is held in with 4 screws top 2 easy guess you found them, the other 2 you will need a long extension to reach down, just loosen screws dont take them right out. photo's show left side light. Not sure if your year does have the pump there still usually pipe end needs cutting off then pushing back on the right hand pic shows the adjuster you want the hole to the right

Well perhaps soon :o they must be extremly busy :)

Hi Brethy Why start another thread for the same problem? its no good keep asking advice if your not going to check out whats been suggested, it's possible you may have more than one problem because shaking/vibration could also be down to seized CV joints. MAF and MAP sensors are easy targets but can be blamed wrongly, your going to have to get your hands dirty here and get involved, sorry if im sounding harsh here but we can only advise from experience.

Code 1, 3 is referring to the Key code,try another key http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=18515&view=findpost&p=142381

Thinking your injector wiring loom may have some dodgy connections this should show up on Vagcom when you get it running.

The glow plug light on the diesels also doubles as an engine management light. Could be a dodgy brake switch, but best scan with Vagcom first.

Hi and welcome to the forum. If you go back to the MK 2 instructions in the FAQ's and go to page 2 and scroll down you will see pics for a MK 1, it is in the same position

relay 109 is the engine power relay for all diesels, relay 30 is for petrols.

What you could try is split the old pipe open get the restrictor out, get a small drill bit clean out the hole. Warm your new pipe up in boiling water and push restrictor into new pipe, if its a loose fit in the new pipe use a hose clip to stop it moving in pipe. If you leave the pipe on without restrictor fitted more of the main flow through the radiator will be directed through the bottle this could possibly cause engine to overheat as the flow will follow easiest path

Latency, get into device manager double click on COM & LPT then double click on the com number what ever yours is 1-4. COM properties opens click on port settings then advanced then you will see the latency setting. 16 is default reduce it to 3

If it's just a plain hose then no but if a restrictor is fitted in the pipe then my advice would be get the correct hose.

Yes I had that problem when I first had mine, tried uninstalling and reinstalling just the same, it was also very slow running the program. In the end wiped off the hard drive reinstalled windows and everything else and it's been fine since that. By the way you cant run autoscan unless its registered, you have to scan each module separately.

That doesn't surprise me when you listen to other members experiences with dealers, unless there acting dumb because it's going to cost them money. I think you will have to indicate to them the part, don't be fobbed off by excuses.

Hi BigDave According to the Ekta catalogue it's called a wiring conduit, which makes me think it's a guide for the wear indicator wire as mines only got it on that side. Hope you can see from the photo. I dont recall mine coming out when I changed my discs and pads but there's only one on the drivers side.

Coolant should return to the bottle through the top pipe this is usually a restricted flow, the restriction could be in the pipe or in the connector on the bottle this creates an air bleed so small quantities of air and coolant will bleed up to the bottle and not be trapped in the cooling system. So if you remove the pipe from the bottle start engine coolant should be ejected if it doesn't there's a blockage in the pipe.

Blimey Andy your not having much luck with that engine mate, got job you hadn't stuck a new turbo on without checking first.