chrispb123456

That happened to me when I put one of those cheap MAF sensors on from Ebay, ended up getting a genuine Bosch one, been OK ever since

Well done M8 you got there in the end :19:

Hi Nige AFAIK the barometric pressure should read as near as whats on the barometer or check local weather site, having said that I will check mine next time I have the laptop out.

Hi and welcome to the forum First of all can you post your vehicle details eg.MK1 MK2 petrol/diesel engine code, bhp, cc. Automatic or manual Then go to edit your profile then click on signiture, then write all the details there then they will appear on all your posts.

Plonker

As your right on the year change cant be certain which (early or late) electrics you have, if your certain wiring in the doors are OK and you checked the first layer fuse box. Have a look around the battery + terminal make sure no red wires have broken off. If thats OK in the third layer of the fuse box there's a maxi fuse 71, 30amp check the fuse and also check make sure 12 volt is present there.

May be something to do with the wiring up of your trailer sockets?

here they are http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=3623&st=75

167 is fuel pump relay

Whole drier/condenser combined about

Are you talking about relay 109 bad solder joints? this is in the fuse box layer 3

Hi Seatkid Could you give your reason(s) for that statement "dont trust guys who use dyes" as the specialist I know uses both, and seems to be a standard now when having system regassed.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Can you give as much vehicle info as poss? MK1 or 2 and build year. Have you checked fuses?

If you can scan it first with Vagcom this will confirm, cam cover needs to be removed to access. Loom is cheaper from VW

Crank sensor in cylinder block near oil filter, probably easier from underneath when covers removed

Would advise you to have a word with a local automatic transmission repairer on the viability of a DIY repair (success rate) as this is not something normally taken on by home mechanic/DIY person.

The reason I ask if you had cleared the fault code is that it may be an old fault thats been fixed. Usually one makes a note of the fault code then clears the fault, take car for a drive then recheck to see if the fault code returns,clearing the fault code wont fix the problem. The solenoids are fitted in the valve chest, there is a wiring loom inside the box that connects to all the solenoids which may also be suspect

Thing is you have to draw the line somewhere not sure on price of expansion valve but the drier/condenser was

High and welcome to the forum Think this is refering to a valve in the automatic transmission? do you have a problem with it? and have you cleared the code and has it come back.

Now you have confirmed you have a good 12 volt supply to the compressor and that the centre part of the clutch is not turning then yes you need to replace compressor. It will be false economy just to do the clutch on it's own. The pipes running through the wheel arch are prone to corrosion around pipe clips look for any tell tale signs (dye marks)

Cool pics Greg, I hear there looking for a new 007 :)

Certainly not, they are only OK for a straight forward regas (providing they put the correct amount of gas and oil in) a specialist is guy who has a good working knowledge of auto aircon systems on a variety of vehicles and is able to diagnose a fault without the guess work.

There is a valve fitted in the pipe where the switch screws in. The switch will disable the system if the pressures to low or to high to prevent damage to compressor.

Maybe Your postcode is the problem ;) I have a 2002 same model give or take a few pence

Hi there The switch is replaceable without degassing, it's located behind the area of the o/s fog lamp about