chrispb123456

How do you know it has the correct amount of gas in it? The HVAC system can be diagnosed with VCDS, you may have a wiring issue or faulty high pressure switch.

If the hissing is only when pressing the brake pedal then that sounds like the servo diaphragm is leaking, the other actions you describe is normal

The MAF sensor is easy look at the large air pipe from the air filter to the engine air intake, the MAP sensor is more tricky that's located inside the engine ECU which is behind the instrument cluster. See here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22717-how-to-ecu-removal/page__p__164798&do=findComment&comment=164798 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/8397-changing-your-air-flow-meter-cartridge/ Personally I would scan for fault codes first because you may have a boost issue, under or over boost can cause the ECU to go into limp mode that may be turbo related.

Do you have the 5 speed box? Bare in mind if you do drain fluid you will only get half of it out as you cannot drain the converter or valve chest so all you can do is repeat the change several times with a drive in between changes to get the fluid looking reasonably clean, the slipping is part of the design to avoid jerky gear changes, when the slipping gets excessive and the engine overly revs during a change could be down to lazy solenoid valve(s) left unchecked excess slipping will cause higher gearbox temperature and wear on clutches & bands.

Change your coolant temperature sensor, that is a common issue. Check the return hose to the bottle is clear, this hose has a restriction that can get blocked, look for a small amount of coolant dribbling back into the bottle through the small hose on the bottle. I agree a lot of pressure in the bottle when cold is wrong and could be a sign that you still have a problem.

The ratio's will be different between petrol and diesel. The 4 speed is VW model O1P The 5 speed is Japanese (Jatco) model JF506e I wouldn't be put off by having an auto, we've had one for 10 years now, yes they do go wrong with age as does any auto on any car. Ours was done about 3 years ago at a cost of

Check the brake fluid level is not below the minimum.

Do you need to replace the whole thing? what is actually wrong with yours? if it's just the rotational part with the blades usually called a cartridge (CHRA) you may be able to get that part cheaper. I've just replaced mine on a MK2 115ps for

Rd/Gn Red & Green Bn/Gn Brown & Green

Possible causes cam cover gasket, EGR valve leaking from vent hole, and turbo seals

17965 IS POSITIVE DEVIATION OR IN SIMPLE TERMS OVERBOOST.. This is nearly always the turbo vanes sticking, did you dismantle the turbo vanes to clean? Have you tried manually moving the turbo actuator by pulling the lever down, if you have had the turbo off you will know how strong the spring is to overcome the full movement, if it is easy to move then maybe the spring has broken inside the actuator this would certainly give you overboost. You cannot create a log file with a generic code reader you need Vagcom or VCDS lite this will give live informatiom of whats going on, keep clearing the codes will not solve the problem or make it go away.

Totally agree with insanitybeard, I know time is of the essence now if your friend cannot do the data file you should have a better result going to a VW agent or a local garage that specialises in VW as they will have the gear to do this.

You need to get some live data using Vagcom or VCDS lite measuring blocks 003. 010. 011 you need to do this while driving the car at 100% throttle at 3000RPM save the log file so you can look back at it, you need to look at the actual and specified readings for the turbo, MAF and MAP to see if they are within limits

Run the engine with the cap removed and look for coolant trickling back into the bottle through the return pipe, there is a restrictor in this pipe that can get blocked. Does the heaters get hot in the car?

I think I would be looking at the large multiplug on the engine wiring loom and connections on rear of cluster.

Are there any other symptoms like glow plug light flashing or the LED light on the door flashing while trying to start. You will probably have fault codes stored as a result of not starting which will help diagnose.

The short stub sticking out is correct there should be nothing connected to it just open, can't help with the 2.3 cruise control.

Also check battery fusebox for meltdown.

This site is virtually unmanaged and hasn't been allowing pictures for months, suggest you also post your problem here at www.fordmpv.com You will need to register to upload pictures but this site is fully managed.

Another one for my little black book Well done that man :46:

Have you checked fuse 33 and have you checked the wiper spindles? may be seizing putting extra load on the motor!

Check battery fuse box for meltdown.

If you get yourself one of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-FD232B-chip-compatible-with-VCDS-LITE-/330752513588?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d0262d634 You can scan the car for fault codes yourself before touching any of the components.

Reading the fault codes should say what part of the system has activated the warning light. The front seat belt pre tensioners run by the side of the front seats under the carpet and there are sensors for the side airbags under each front seat, the controller under the passenger seat is for parking sensors. The controller for airbags is forward of the centre consol. Allways exercise extreme caution when working on airbag system as you could accidentaly set off the system. Disconnect the battery and leave for half an hour before touching the system.

Positive deviation means you have overboost this is most likely the turbo vanes sticking, you can confirm this by collecting some live data with VCDS and check the specified boost pressure against actual pressure The MAF with throw this code when engine has been run with MAF disconnected, check the wiring in the multiplug.