chrispb123456

Are you sure that you need this as it is around the

Have you checked the fuses in the battery fuse box?

Looking through the wiring diagram for relay 30 or K108 power relay as the TIS manual calls it. I don't have experience with the 2.3 engine but seems to me it has no connection with the starter motor, what does have a connection with the starter circuit is the crypto transponder relay which is part of the immobiliser circuit. Am wondering if this is an immobiliser problem either with the chip in the key or transceiver.

Yes it does have the converter but not shown in diagram.

It's actually Japanese!! Jatco JF506E and is fitted to a variety of different makes. https://www.automaticchoice.com/uploads/producten/pdfs/Catalogue/jf506e.pdf

I would say a bit to the left of that grommet in 5 6 7

I thought I had a photo of it but seem to have mislaid it, if you look down the back of the engine towards the gearbox side there should be a short rubber pipe about inch and a half long sticking out from the bulkhead. What may have happened if it's not there the heater/ac unit may have been removed from the car and the pipe not fed back through the hole when it was refitted, although the hole should be visible but probably harder to locate.

What is your engine code 1Z. AHU or AFN as one is mounted different

Was the car OK before you messed with the fobs? if it was then you're lost the chip from the key. Faulty brake light switch can cause glow plug light to flash but so can other things like relay 109 and throttle sensor. Wait till you've scanned and see what comes up. You wont get a code for the relay but you would for brake light switch or throttle position

Check for broken wires on the sensor on the bottom of the bottle. What were the diagnostic fault code numbers?

Have you tried holding the over in the unlock position (2 or 3 seconds) see if global opening will open the windows or persevere with the boot key turning fully anticlockwise past the normal opening position assuming it's the right key. Spray some WD40 directly into the key hole may help.

If you have broken wiring in the tailgate gaiter or any of the doors this causes all sorts of problems and is very common, if the clock has stopped suddenly that sounds like a fuse has blown check number 32 fuse

Shock absorber top mount if badly worn or could be the shock absorber itself making the noise.

Just An idea the airtronic type heater could be an easier option, this is the type the trucks have to keep us poor lorry drivers warm at night, this type just warms the air in the cab and has no connection with the vehicle's heater.

Get a VCDS/Vagcom lead http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/271036790042?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f1b0d351a

Is your new one also a TDI and manual, if so check the pedal switches, VCDS/Vagcom lead check for codes and correct function of switches.

It's quite complex to do the aftermarket fit to run the heater independently from the engine, ideally you should have a second battery with a split charge relay to avoid running the main battery flat or do as I did replace the original battery with the biggest that will fit in the carrier. Ebersp

All you need to do is remove the multi plug from the air switch clipped to the wiper linkage, connect a two core cable to the plug or cut the plug off and join, then run the cable inside the car to a simple on/off switch. Pump should run all the time engine is running and 3 minutes after switch off (115ps engine)

here's the how to get into the fuse box. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=68423 The VW part no is 165906381 The Ford no is 7203442

Hi Dave Further to what I said yesterday about pressure, on any vehicle with no problems as the engine heats up to normal operating temperature the pressure rises steadily but stays below the maximum pressure cap setting this is due to expansion, as the engine cools down and after standing overnight when you remove the cap there would be no pressure, this is normal.. In your case you said there was pressure there when cold, this is not expansion pressure that's still present but combustion pressure that's been forced into the water jacket. The commonest cause of this is head gasket failure and if left to long like this will require the head to be refaced. Now it's possible there may be a couple of things that haven't helped the situation. The early PD engines suffered with the water pump impeller breaking up and for low speed driving around town you wouldn't even notice anything is wrong, the problem usually shows itself when you take it out on a motorway and drive it hard then the temperature can suddenly shot up with a loss of coolant through the cap. The other possibility is the auxiliary coolant pump (run on pump) has packed up, this should run all the time engines running and carry on for 3 minutes after switch off, it's to stop hot spots building up in cylinder head and provide circulation through the rear heater and the diesel fired booster heater under the car. You can also suffer with heater blowing cold when it should be hot, fluctuating temperature gauge and erratic coolant levels Re torquing of the head bolts is something we used to do years ago on cast iron cylinder heads with high tensile bolt or studs with nuts and washers. These days they use aluminium heads and stretch bolts which you are advised not to re use, you also tighten in four or five stages, first two stages are usually using a torque wrench in the normal manner but the last two or three stages are by angle tightening and that's it no further tightening.. By further tightening you run the risk of distortion, or worse snapping a bolt off in the block

:16: You get confoozed Greg, can't believe that.

At a guess probably overboost, but get yourself a lead of ebay and scan your car for error codes http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/271036790042?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f1b0d351a

Hi Dave1981 I know your new to this forum, you need to start your own post by clicking on "start new topic" that way you will get replies just to your problem, I know your problem is similar to the topic started by Tony5496 but as he's still getting replies it will get very confusing. Once you have started your new topic the moderator will move your first posts so they all appear together in your topic.

Sorry just realised you have a MK3 it's not fitted to the Mk3 diesel in the UK. I would have thought if you have a diesel leak it would be obvious because of the mess, if it's all dry it may be exhaust fumes you can smell in which case you need to get underneath to check around the exhaust.

Does your booster heater work (fitted under the floor passenger side in front of rear wheel) look for a small exhaust pipe. It could be fumes from this.