chrispb123456

That's the one :rolleyes:

Matt. Assuming you have Vagcom/VCDS VCDS is more suited to these engines you can check MAF sensor, boost control and EGR at the same time by collecting live data while driving the car. You would need to record measuring blocks 003. 010. 011 you need a good 5 - 10 seconds of 100% throttle (flat out) at 30mph Rich. The car has both MAP sensor located in the boost pipe work and the MAF on the air filter box.

Flame out errors can be caused by fuel starvation when tank is low but more so if facing downhill, you will need to clear flame out codes for heater to start.

If I remember correctly there are 2 tests on vcds, one said no codes found and one said not connected successfully Can you just confirm when you click on Aux heater does the controller open showing the heater address in green text if yes then you have the button to scan for codes, if you click the scan for codes does a message come back with no codes found or to many connection errors, or controller not found.

So which modules did you scan

Scanning the diagnostic system first may help pinpoint your problem. Vagcom/VCDS recommended for this.

I think your confusing the charge pipes, these are the large hoses that connect the turbo outlet through to the intercooler then on to to the inlet manifold, these will be varying degrees of positive pressure when engines running. The vacuum pipes operate a series of solenoid valves namely turboboost valve (N75) this controls the turbo actuator. EGR control valve (N18) this controls the amount of vacuum to the EGR valve. and finally on PD engines the manifold flap valve (N239) sometimes called anti shudder valve, this closes off the air intake for a few seconds when engine is switched off.

Assuming the problem hasn't been caused by you connecting to the car with the KWP200 I would certainly check fuse 14 and relay 109 as yours is the TDI Does seem a coincidence if this has just happened since using the above.

Yep diesel knock most noticable when the weather gets colder, goes away when warmed up, mines the same.

It's a figment of our imagination, at least his cats working now.

Submarine lighting, they give a soft light over the black dash.

And me lol

You do need to remove the strut to change the rubber seat and bearing. As said the first nut is the most troublesome to remove as the cup washer fills with water rusting the nut threads. If it doesn't undo after soaking with penetrating fluid the cup washer can be cut off with a small angle grinder, this will get the strut off quickly you can then deal with that nut easier while off the car. Once your successful removing the nut and cup washer you will now need to compress the spring enough to remove the second nut, once removed you can now replace the bearing and seat and a new cup washer if you cut off the old one.

I'm not sure if the 2.3 has a clutch type pulley or the solid type, but also check your aircon pump is not seizing up.

Most likely cause is broken wiring in the door gaiter.

It's no secret it's in my profile page but to save you having to go to it it's Chatham Kent

That's to far for us Greg lol

Must have missed that :unsure:

And a welcome from me :rolleyes:

It was only early Mk1's that had a controller for windows under the seat, Mk2's have the parking sensor controller and front sounder under the seat. Each door motor is a combined controller. The two large wires carry the current that drive the motor but smaller wires control from the switches

The box under the passenger seat is for parking sensors, nothing to do with windows. Have you checked wiring for continuity and voltage with a multimeter.

Don't worry Greg it's probably just a flying visit :16:

There is also splice joint 32 down the side of the front passenger seat, this usually suffers if the footwell has been wet for a prolonged period. This is a bunch of red and white wires taped together that can become badly corroded in wet carpet /insulation.

Have a look under the turbo see if it's wet with oil, seals may be going in the turbo.

The only ones that shut off are the ones with the Ford petrol engines 2.0 & 2.3 the diesel compressor runs all the time when auto is selected, to turn off select econ. They do say you use more fuel when running aircon all the time, I did try doing a comparison with the MPG but to be honest it's not worth worrying about.