chrispb123456

Am assuming it's the wires pulled out from the plug on the actual ABS sensor and wear lead not the socket it plugs into on the car. This is what shows on both ford tis and elsawin but im sure it's referring to the socket and not the ABS plug ABS. 1.Grey 2.Brown Wear lead. 3.Brown. 4.Brown Let us know if the colours don't match and I'll have a look at my car and take a photo of it.

I have the 017 on mine it's the largest size that will fit in the holder bracket and biggest output.

you need to remove the engine undercover, you will find the sensor screwed into the exhaust pipe.

Removing battery tray will give better access to cables and essential if you want to remove the turret but you need to support the gearbox as it will drop if you don't The selector shaft upper support bearing can get dry and cause difficulty getting any gear there is also a pinch bolt that can come loose and can drop out into the box maybe that is the problem, does there seem a lot of slack in the gear lever? have you got someone to operate the gearlever while you look at the cables for any excess movement..

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Yes it is an engine mount, it must be fluid filled (hydraulic) like a shock absorber.

Maybe clutch dragging (not fully disengaging) as you say it goes in easier with engine off Also check security of selector cables

To find file go to my computer, click on your hard drive usually C:\ Now look for the ross tech folder and double click Now double click the VCDS lite folder Now double click the logs folder Or go to start click on search and type in C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS-Lite\Logs

In that case take it for a run with the caravan and collect some live data using measuring blocks 003, 010, 011. Scenario 30 to 40 MPH 3000RPM 100% throttle.

Try using a jump lead from the large alternator terminal directly to the battery positive terminal then check output voltage, this will bypass alternator lead and fuse box.

Any fault codes would be saved regardless of engine kept running, are you sure your vagcom setup is working correctly? check this by disconnecting MAF sensor then start engine, now check for fault codes you should have something like "MAF G70 open or short to ground" if it still shows no faults then vagcom is not configured correctly.

As said in the link to the other forum the O/S lamp is accessible from above after removing headlamp or through wheel arch liner, the left N/S lamp no choice you need to remove lamp because the washer bottle fills the whole gap.

Crosland is a good old established make.

That's a shame you must have a real oddball there, what is it that's different from yours to the one supplied.

Fuse 12 :16:

Have used both over the years but more so partsgateway. Sometimes they do ring or message even though as you say they have all the info.

I agree with what your saying Seatkid but the OP had said it was behind a plate, the MAP sensor is one of the easiest parts to see and replace on the MK2 Perhaps jbgt2 can confirm which part he's talking about.

Just putting the part number into your browser brings up a few in europe but your looking at about £270 + delivery a breakers is going to be the cheapest. Have you tried the online breakers like Parts Gateway and 247 spares http://www.partsgateway.co.uk/ http://www.247spares.co.uk/?gclid=CPq96J27gsQCFcXItAodkl8AYA

VW numbers from Vagcat 7M1612105A brake booster / F >> 7M-W-060 000 lhd / (9) 7M1612105D brake servo with dual diaphragm / F 7M-W-020 919>> 7M-W-060 000* 9"/8" lhd / (9) 7M1612105C brake servo with dual diaphragm / for models with anti-lock brake system -abs- / for models with anti-lock brake system and electronic differential lock -abs/edl- / F 7M-X-000 001>>* 9"/8" lhd / (9) 7M1612105D brake servo with dual diaphragm / for models without anti-locking system / F 7M-X-000 001>>* 9"/8" lhd / (9) 7M2612105A brake booster / F >> 7M-W-020 918 9"/8" rhd / (9) 7M2612105D brake servo with dual diaphragm / F 7M-W-020 919>> 7M-W-060 000* 9"/8" rhd / (9) 7M2612105C brake servo with dual diaphragm / for models with anti-lock brake system -abs- / for models with anti-lock brake system and electronic differential lock -abs/edl- / F 7M-X-000 001>>* 9"/8" rhd / (9) 7M2612105D brake servo with dual diaphragm / for models without anti-locking system / F 7M-X-000 001>>* 9"/8" rhd /

This is the VW part no. 1J0906627A last one I got was £46 inc vat What problems are you having? have you had it scanned? what was the fault codes? The boost valve is located on the bulkhead over the top of the engine behind a small heat shield, you will see three valves there, the boost valve or N75 is the left one as you under the bonnet.

There are either one or two bolts to remove, early pre 2010 2 bolts later 2010> one bolt through the access hole in bumper under lamp The book says remove the lamp by pulling down at the top this releases the two plastic tangs at the top edge, once release pull lamp forward. In practice this is not that easy. I used a wide flat screwdriver and a flat scraper to protect the paintwork even so it does seem a lot of pressure to be putting on the plastic lamp. There is a how to for this on here http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/mk3-galaxy-reference-library/ford-galaxy-front-side-lampfog-lamp-removal/

Was there any loose connectors there?

These engines really struggle to get hot this time of year this is why you have the booster heater underneath to aid warm up, The direction of flow is top to bottom, top of rad warm/hot and bottom of rad and bottom hose cool/cold. You have nothing to worry about.

That is normal after coolant has passed through the radiator especially this time of year.

Wasn't aware any gearbox was on the service list, only check for damage and leaks.