chrispb123456

Have you looked at the pipe work that goes to the rear heater underneath the car When you take the cap off when the engines cold is there any pressure there.

No the gauge cannot make the engine overheat.

The control unit for the park assist is under the passenger seat, if the car has suffered the water in the footwell syndrome the water will have got inside this unit with fatal results.

Droplets of oil will always be present in the intercooler pipe work as it is also connected to the engine breather pipe. The fact that oil is leaking from the crimped end of the intercooler will eventually result in loss of air charge which would mean a loss in power and possible limp mode. Repaired or replacement intercooler required.

Fords do state in the TIS that the head can't be skimmed but there's many member's have that have been done successfully providing it's not been done before as they can only take a small amount of metal off, I believe five thousands of an inch max, but of course you won't know till a machine shop can measure the head how much can be removed safely. There are different thickness head gaskets that can compensate within limits.

Have you checked the pipe going to the crankcase emission valve (PCV) it is well hidden behind a heat shield under the exhaust manifold It has a rubber connector that splits and allows air the rush in.

I was going to post info sheet (came with the car) that lists the CO2 emissions specific for that vehicle (do you have one with yours) but this forum is still allowing attachments so will post the link to a forum that works properly :angry: http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/technical-6/environmental-information-sheet/

I think seal kits are a thing of the past, there will be a certain amount of wear in the cylinder bore anyway so just fit a new cylinder.

You very rarely get oil in water or vice versa on these engines later stages of HGF are loss of water especially after driving under load or motorway driving, a failed water pump in the past could have brought on the problem there is also an electric coolant pump to help with circulation through rear heater and booster heater. You may also suffer from the front heater blowing cold caused by air constantly being introduced into the system, bleeding the system will not cure the problem but might appear to give a temporary fix

Your suppose to be able to pull down and forward the light to remove the lamp but this seems to prove impossible with damaging the surrounding paintwork. I got into mine from behind after removing screws from the wheel arch liner, it's still fiddly but doable.

If your constantly having pressure still in the system when cold you have early stages of head gasket failure

Yes the large black plastic pipe from servo to inlet manifold under bonnet.

Yes the vacuum pipe, it's usually the ends that split but may also be collapsed.

Yep that's what I make them to

Check the pipe for splits and cracks especially at the ends, as regards brakes sticking on intermittently check make sure the fluid reservoir is not overfull

If it doesn't show it in your registration document you will have to look on the front of the cylinder block Also look on your insurance schedule it should say on there. 90ps=AHU 110ps=AFN

If you have no glow plug light and no communication with ECU then you have a terminal 30 supply fault, this is usually caused by poor solder joints in relay 109 you will find it in the main fuse box in the third layer see link below http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=68423

If you have the 5 speed tipronic then you have the Jatco JF506E gearbox https://www.automaticchoice.com/uploads/producten/pdfs/Catalogue/jf506e.pdf This will give you an idea of what your looking at.

Sheared water pump impellers can cause overheating when under load but I suspect you now have head gasket failure

Because it's the wife's Motability car I don't think I would have any say about the tyres other than replacing them when worn or punctured but will be asking the question as the car is due for replacement at the end of this year, I'm sure I have read that the car needs to be returned unmodified at the end of the lease. I know kwik fit don't like you using the gung to repair a puncture as they have to clean it all off the rim and did you know that if you use the gung to repair a puncture that it's only a temporary repair and kwik fit wont repair a puncture in these tyres. I have heard there's going to be a new model MPV early next year but am seriously looking at the Sharan as I like the idea of the sliding doors at the rear but will look more in depth later this year.

Two different ways in my book very similar but different Debonding a bonded phone 1. Press the phone or call accept button 2. Press the menu button on the audio unit 3. Select the debond option on the audio unit 4. scroll through the different phones by using the seek buttons and display the phone to be debonded 5.Press the menu button to select the phone which is to be debonded Debonding a bonded phone - Sony radio 1. Press the phone button 2. Press the up/down arrow buttons until you reach the debond option 3.Scroll through the different phones using the seek buttons and display the phone to be debonded 4. Press the OK button to debond

There was no change in fuel consumption still doing 37 ish but have to be honest I don't drive like miss daisy and am very near to three digits when coming home at silly o'clock Never thought much about the run flat tyres but have to agree the road holding on rough roads on bends is terrible

It may have overtaken the booster heater thread!

Firstly check on the ford etis site and see if there are updates for your car, secondly our car is a Motability car so I wouldn't no if there are any charges for this. When the guy from the dealers came to pick the car up for it's second service I said I had looked on the etis site and updates were available for the engine ecu and for something else that I cant remember but know it wasn't relevant to the problems I was having. He said they would check as a matter of course anyway and would let me know when he brought it back, when he brought the car back he said the update to the engine had been done. All I can say whatever the update did it greatly improves the low speed driveability. I have to reverse up our drive from a full left hand lock, it was virtually impossible to hold it on the clutch while doing this it was either far to many revs (smell the clutch burning) or it would just stall. But it would also catch you out at junctions aswell sometimes leaving you stranded while you wait for the delay on the start/stop button for the engine to fire up again.