chrispb123456

Check for fuel supply to engine! Maybe intank pump, fuel pump relay 167, inertia switch popped up Beeping could be low battery voltage.

Hi and welcome to the forum Yes you have chosen the right option only problem is the auto scan doesn't work on the free version, what you have to do is from the main screen click select then click on, example ENGINE, or AUX HEAT. Not all modules will be relevent to your car so there will be a few where you get know response. Hope that helps :lol: Ah ha and just noticed you have the 2.3 ford engine, unfortunately Vagcom will not read the 2.0 or the 2.3 engines as they are ford engines, however it will work on all the other components that are relevent.

Hi and welcome to the forum What does the door LED do when unable to start? It could be a faulty relay 109 but doesn't give a fault code. Dont know what d40 code is Are you using Vagcom to scan your car?

Hi and welcome to the forum Is the LED on the drivers door flashing frantically when trying to start, if so you probably need to change relay 109 (third layer of fuse box) misread that, ignore this if it's an 09 or if its 00 then above is correct. Tip when using site give as much vehicle details as possible, example Mk1,2 or 3 the full year 2009, 2010 LX, Ghia, Titanium Engine type size etc

Have you tried clearing the codes see if they come back? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01271 link may be of help

Hi Fred When you said the garage had checked the oil pressure was this just at tick over or did they do a high RPM test aswell, this could also show up relief valve or partially blocked sump strainer

Hi Kevin Simple enough to do, the temp switch is clipped to the wiper linkage behind the battery, you will need to remove the bulkhead scuttle to access (3 bolts) Once thermo switch is removed either cut plug off or use scotch locks and connect a 2 core cable and run inside car, any accesory switch will do or you may be able to utilise a heated screen switch from a breakers and mount in a spare switch panel by radio. There is a large rubber grommet for passing wire through to the inside of car on the bulkhead behind and down from the ABS block.

You can look up your individual car here http://www.etis.ford.com/home.do Would certainly go on the side of caution and change below the figure especially if you only just aquired the vehicle.

Hi there maybe injector but more likely injector wiring loom

Looking in with interest obviously there is a market for this sort of thing in the right environment, not trying to put a downer on it but what about the legal side of having that sort of equipment and process going on at a family home, residential area, fire risk, insurance etc and storage of the old oil and the finished product. I used to drive a tanker a few years ago delivering edible oils and later fuel oils and know there's going to be a certain amount of smell involved, does this cause you any problems with neighbours?

In your initial post you say there's always wetness where water/coolants been blown out through the cap, that alone says you have an overpressure problem, when releasing pressure cap with engine (Warm engine) running does the water spew out with pressure. When you say your engineer done a pressure test on the cooling system, did he just pump up the cooling system to 15 PSI and watch for a fall in pressure? this could be considered inconclusive, cranking pressures on a diesel is around 500 PSI and higher with engine running and under load. Have a look at all the other posts on this subject all with same problems

Hi and welcome to the forum You done all the quick fixes but I'm afraid your symptoms are more likely to be head gasket failure, or worst case cracked cylinder head. You changed the engine water pump have you checked the electric run on pump, this should run all the time engines running and continue for 3 minutes after switch off. It's purpose is to stop heat build up (hot spots) when switching off a hot engine, can cause premature gasket failure, it also aids flow to the rear compartment heater and correct operation of the booster heater (if it still works) Use the search facility under your log in name, you will find pages and pages on this subject. Just to add these engines very rarly suffer water in oil or vice versa Run the engine with the filler cap removed you should notice air and coolant entering bottle from the small pipe at the top.

Er nearly Mark well firefox actually, obviously not many using IE then ^_^

Well I'll be f******d just downloaded firefox and yes it's working, guess what my default browser is now!!! ^_^

Technical working OK it's the FAQ's not been working for a few weeks, admin obviously not in attendance ^_^

Starter pinion and ring gear may have suffered damage, you should check flywheel ring gear for worn teeth, if OK replace starter motor

Just a thought before you go changing the alternator, have you checked the large cables for burning in the auxiliary fuse box by the battery.

Hi Motly Sounds like it may not have installed correctly, do you get to many communication errors? you could try turning down the latency from 16 to 3. Where abouts are you in Kent? may be able to help!!

The ABS light is part of the MOT test and will need to function correctly to pass!!!

Did you take the drive arm off the motor, because that sounds like you put it back in the wrong position, did you start off with the wipers correctly parked before you dismantled? Remove wiper arms and motor link, operate motor then park, iirc the motor link arm should be refitted contacting a stop arm which will be it's lowest position, then refit the wiper arms. Look closely at the earlier photo, the position of the motor link.

The temperature sensors are colour coded and you must replace with the same, have attached picture as an example. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GALAXY-COOLANT-TEMP-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-1100619-NEW-/180657374422?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a1004c4d6

Hi Thierry Welcome to the forum Relay 30 is the power relay for petrol engined varients, the diesel equivilent is relay 109. 109 can give you intermittant starting problems so change this one first, the VW part number is, 1J 0906381A

There does seem to be a delay before the front screen kicks in, probably due to glow plug phase. As both these items consume a lot of currant, mine kicks in about 30 seconds after starting engine. Does your booster heater work? it will take forever to warm up without it.

Generally if nothing happens and no difference in performance when you unplug then you have a problem, usually vagcom will register an open or short to ground because of the disconnection but only sure way is to replace. With Vagcom using measuring blocks and creating a log file you can do a drive and monitor whats going on and save it to an Excel document, with the full registered version you can actually test things like the N75 N18 valves and operation of EGR and manifold flap valve.

Yes that sort of thing but a long uphill gradient with a fully loaded car using a lower gear than normal to give you between 3000 to 3500 RPM and hold it there, road conditions etc permitting, you get the idea. The car had probably done a lot of town driving or to much looking at the MPG display, they do need to be driven hard occasionally as you say blow the cobwebs out.