chrispb123456

Yes I did see that thanks. A quick google for Alhambra MAP sensors showed only one or two versions so I was hoping it was a separate entity. Oh well a job for the weekend Ifear. Malc Only the PD engines have the MAP sensor in the air charge pipe from the intercooler.

Jan 2007 will be a MK3 and all engines are Ford. MK1 and MK2 used VW 1.9 TDI diesel engines. The 2.8 V6 petrol is also VW That leaves the 2.0 and 2.3 petrol which are Ford MK1 1995 to 2000 MK2 2000 to 2006 MK3 2006 to Present

The MAP sensor is inside the engine ECU, have already sent you a link to the how to remove ECU on page one thread 15

Found the problem!, Fords hadn't tightened up one of the mounting bolts!!!! :angry2: :angry2: :angry2: Sounds like an expensive outing at the ford dealer? The water pump is a common fault for circulation problems, there is also an electric circulating pump (run on pump) that aids flow through the rear passenger heater and correct operation of booster heater, am guessing that's not working either The run on pump usually gives out after 80 to 100,000 mls it runs all the time engines running and continues for three minutes after engine switch off. The alternator clutch pulley is available separately but not from fords, prices vary but around about

Not aware of a relay for the standard booster only if it has the independent option, have you actually applied voltage to the glow plug momentarily see if it's getting hot. Have had low resistance readings before but plug is still U/S

This can be quite varied depending on your spec what are you having problems with

Hi Wacko Just to clear some confusion, relay 109 is the power supply for engine ECU and injectors and has nothing to do with the starter circuit, in other words if you had a faulty 109 relay the starter would still turn the engine over but it would not fire and you would notice the LED on the drivers door flashing frantically.

These autoboxes use information from various sensors on the engine so be sure that the engine is running correctly before blaming the gearbox. Also when the engine/gearbox is cold does the car hesitate when pulling away? then goes with a jerk until warmed up.

Right the small cylinder as you call it is the dosing pump for the booster heater, you will only get ticking from the pump when the booster heater is in operation, mk 1's should kick in at 5 deg's or below. are you sure your fuel gauge is correct? you didn't say how much fuel you had but if you run less than a quarter of a tank and you live in a hilly area then your asking for trouble, as for the bubbles in fuel line give the car a run then recheck, you'll probably find it's cleared.

No the MK1 is dumb and not connected to diagnostics so you will need to physically drop the heater and test the plug.

You may find this helpfull if you decide to have your engine ECU out. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22717-how-to-ecu-removal/page__p__164798__fromsearch__1#entry164798

Are you sure they actually changed the alternator clutch pulley and not just the tensioner pulley?

Seems not all vehicles are listed with the code, have a look in your registration document where it says make and model type, below that it says variant on mine it says AUY1 which = 115ps

Put your details in here it may tell you, works for mine http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=3BEF085EB732F02DFCC0CE08E28AF94B.fcvas509 iirc the 150 is ARL, should also be on a sticker on timing cover Several members have had good results from http://motomax.eu/ww...aran_store.html but should be available from motor factors here like GSF and AVS

All fuel feed lines through filter are suction on the Mk1 so any loose or cracked/split tubing will cause air to enter the system, also check the plastic T connector on top of the fuel filter for cracks or split O ring. Both Mk1 & 2 will draw air if left running facing downhill with less than a quarter of a tank of fuel, this has happened to me several times as I have a steep drive fortunately the Mk2 has the in tank pump so I just level the car and away it goes after a few turns of the key, the Mk1 will need a longer period of cranking as Zorgman rightly says the injection pump draws the fuel from the tank. As a point of interest the low fuel level/slope syndrome can also cause flame out errors on the booster heater if the heater was actually running when the low fuel state occurred.

Greg What are you like http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?X=561179&Y=102858&A=Y&Z=110

Golden Jubilee then :rolleyes:

Reminisce http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=boom+boom+boom+boom+esso+blue&oq=boom+boom+boom+boom+e&aq=1&aqi=g2&aql=&gs_sm=c&gs_upl=38686l62229l0l66041l29l24l0l6l6l0l218l2277l3.10.3l18l0

Seems since the internet explorer 9 update last year there's been problems accessing the FAQ's on this site, most people move to Firefox or Chrome, internet menu's will look slightly different but you soon get used to it.

You need a quarter drive socket set with universal joint and a 10mm socket to fit the bolts that way you don't need to touch the alternator.

Try looking on this site, http://www.bodyshopwarehouse.co.uk/category/galaxy you can see the pictures for the parts you want by age range

Taken from TIS disassmbly of 115PS engine Is this the correct one Chris? Hi Silverbeast Yes that looks about right but when the alternator and aircon pump are in place makes removal of the left lower bolt more difficult

The pictures above for the temp sensor are for the 130 engine which will be quite different to your 115 your sensor is fitted straight in the cylinder head. The TIS pics for the stat housing gives you the area just below left of the vacuum reservoir, 2 bolts hold it in, iirc the left one is a bit fiddly.

You still need to take the screws out fo the rear part of the liner, you'll see why when you've done it!!, only takes minutes to do both sides.