chrispb123456

You may not get a reply as it's an old post but basically remove the fluid cap and wrap some cling film over the reservoir to prevent excess fluid running out, change your hoses remove film and bleed as normal.

Count the turns it takes to remove each track rod and replace by the same amount, though always have alignment checked professionally as a small amount of inaccuracy will cause unnecessary tyre wear.

iirc there's a valve in the pipe where the switch screws in to avoid losing gas when switch is removed.

just done that, but all i get is results for this thread! can u give me a link or 2 to follow? thanks When you type in the search box before you click on the the green search button click on the grey "This Topic" that will open a drop down menu select "Forums" then click the search button

Type in injector wiring into the search box and have a read of the relevant posts there

Possibly main dealer only, not seen the cups on ebay, ring a vw dealer with the number I gave you.

Ah back to the injector wiring then!! http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18075/P1667

It's a separate item VW part number 7M0412319A

Limp mode happens when the ECU receives info from the other sensors that's outside the range that's expected, you've already confirmed you have negative deviation which is underboost, this is reset everytime you restart the engine it's not cured just reset waiting for the next instance of underboost. You or someone needs to physically get under the car and inspect the actuator arm, intercooler and hoses or your not going to get anywhere with this.

You cannot see the turbo let alone the actuator from above, what you can do is; behind the air filter box is the vacuum pipe clipped to the side of the turbo inlet tube, if you follow the pipe to the wheel arch there is a joint where you can disconnect the pipe from the turbo. If you need to remove the filter box to see this pipe make sure the MAF sensor is fitted back into the inlet pipe temporarily and plugged in. Now start engine, there should be significant vacuum pressure from the end clipped to the car, now if you connect/disconnect several times you should hear the engine note change, you should also hear the turbo spool up and down. If you cannot hear any change but have good vacuum pressure then turbo and/or actuator require attention, however if you can hear a change in engine note it still doesn't confirm the turbo actuator is moving the full distance. Sorry can't confirm pipe sizes but at a guess sounds about right. The turbo intercooler is the small air to air radiator underneath the coolant radiator again to see these pipes you will need to raise the car and remove the undercover to access, check for oily patches at each end of intercooler,also check the turbo outlet pipe for splits/perishing. Don't have any pics of the cooler but as said is under the main radiator so just follow the pipes from both sides of the cooler, one pipe goes to the turbo outlet the other comes up the front to the EGR/inlet manifold

Well done :46:

I have a 52 reg and that is the same as mine

It's best if a person drives and another operates the laptop then you can pause the logging when necessary To collect live data click on engine then click measuring blocks, in the 3 groups boxes on the left type in 003 in the top one, 010 in the middle one and 011 at the bottom. Start the log file running to get accurate boost figures you need to get to an open stretch of road preferably uphill gradient full throttle at 3000RPM it's at these engine speeds and full throttle that need checking. If your unsure how to do this there is a demo on the ross-tech site, you can then upload the file here for us to see. How is the actuator arm you haven't mentioned it? There is a lot of vacuum tubing that is shaped and knowing the confined space behind the heat shield will be really difficult Usually only the pipes exposed to heat/oil contamination would be suspect. Don't forget the large intercooler pipes for splits and leaks, look at the ends of the intercooler for signs of oil leakage this can lead to loss of turbo pressure.

Hi Moz A few questions for you Did you scan for fault codes yourself or has a garage or friend done it for you, because whoever is working on the car will need the aid of Vagcom/VCDS to possibly collect some live data to determine what's happening, this is how you test the operation of these items MAF, N75 valve, EGR valve, MAP sensor Have you checked the operation of the turbo actuator arm, it needs to move the full travel without sticking. Vacuum connections especially pipe from vacuum pump to brake servo look for splits at connectors Was the turbo blanked off while the cleaner was used

White smoke sounds definitely like timings out, engine code and year would be useful.

OMG don't upset him he'll go into one :angry2:

Um yea she did come back momentarily but she's gone again :15: :angry2:

Resistor pack is on the heater unit behind the glove box, you will need to remove this to access the resistor. See link below member with similar problem. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/23024-front-heater-blower-stopped-working-on-positions-1-and-2/page__pid__167487&do=findComment&comment=167487

Worst case is running out of fuel, it's one of those jobs I keep putting off, probably if the gauge wasn't working at all I would do it, or if I was constantly running out of fuel. You need to remove the rear arch trims and scuff trims to get the carpet up to access the plate in the floor so it's not a five minute job.

There's no amp for standard car only an aerial amp your problem is most likely wiring in door gaiters

Hi Omar Nik may be on to something I seem to remember an issue with the early Mk 2's and of course you have just got the car so you don't know how long it's been like it. What I have noticed with mine if it's parked facing downhill and only has about ¼ of a tank next time I come out to the car the fuel light will beep and the gauge will show empty, then once out on the road it gradually comes back to the ¼ and the light goes out, it never used to do that but have got used to it now but would think tank unit is worn causing a break in the circuit when the float arm is hanging down and forward. To confirm this would need to remove unit from tank to operate by hand.

Have you tried removing and cleaning the valve they usually get gummed up with the valve not seating correctly, as I said normally the engine cuts out if you disconnect it while the engine was idling.

Good point, it does mention this in the handbook, but then not everyone has or reads the book. :angry2:

A lot of fault codes but not all are contained in the Ross-Tech Wiki, click on the link then click fault codes, you can also search Google. http://wiki.ross-tec...x.php/Main_Page The engine codes refer to the power output from the engine, AUY = 115, ASZ = 130, ARL = 150 You can look at your registration document or insurance notes or there may be a sticker on the plastic cam belt cover with it on. The last two fault codes, terminal 30 lower limit exceeded almost certainly due to low battery voltage, clear it see if it comes back. The glow plug open circuit is for the diesel fired booster heater under the n/s passenger side floor, there is a huge amount of info on the booster heater, once the plug has been replaced you will need to clear the codes for auxiliary heater to allow it to function This is the link for the heater. http://www.fordgalax...er/page__st__75

Only have the VW part number 038971600 about £55 from VW dealer as far as I'm aware it fits all the PD engines in the Galaxy with code AUY. ASZ. ARL Don't go to Fords they will want >£130 for the same part.