chrispb123456

Removing the bulkhead extension and fuel filter with the bracket will give better access, replacing the spring type hose clips to the jubilee type will help refitting.

If it's started suddenly I would be looking at tyres first, make sure no lumps or bulges, if OK then wheel bearings and CV joints.

It wont cause it not to start but will cause it to cycle up and down usually registering a overheat code due to lack of circulation.

The D5Z-F fitted to the later MK2's is prone to controller failure and can give misleading Vagcom readings, not known one to come back to life though, there are two temp sensors one being a overheat sensor.

The engine water pump gives a minimal circulation to the rear heater on a car that's not having circulation problems. With the electric pump not working and with no other problems the rear heater would blow from hot to cold through lack of circulation. I agree the engine water pump should be able to manage this but in practice it doesn't.

The auxiliary heater on the MK1 is dumb so does not connect with the car's diagnostics, most likely culprit is the glow plug so you will need to remove heater to test/replace once you done that job done, no codes to clear.

The chemical test is only drawing of air from the bottle while stationary, it's a possibility your not producing enough gas at this time so the test can be inconclusive we know the problem manifests itself when engine hot and is under load this is when the gas will be present

Run on pumps primary function is to stop heat build up (hotspots) in the cylinder head. Get your coolant chemically tested and pressure tested, at least one should be conclusive. Also do a search on here, your problems aren't unique, there have been countless members on here beating around the bush changing all the easy stuff but not getting to the real problem. Diesel heads can suffer badly from corrosion/erosion and warp, even cracks around the valve seats, most cases having the head skimmed (refaced) will restore the finish. And please don't start a new topic for the same fault just carry on the original.

If the starter solenoid is clicking when you turn the key but not turning over then either battery is flat or starter motor is at fault. Have you tried shorting the starter solenoid terminal to the larger battery + lead, usually a big old screwdriver is good for this

Yep a small bolt in the end of the fuel pipe will suffice, as you have the problem with sheared bolts and the added problem of the exhaust connection broken/eroded away then another unit would be the quicker/easier option. Just a word of caution! The D5WZ is fitted to a few different vehicles EG Mercedes, Landrover VAG and others make sure your replacement has 25-2163 as the model number. The problem with using a different model number is when you need to run Vagcom on the heater, it will only connect with the above number. Of course you could swop over the control unit to get around this.

This is possible the EGR cooler can leak into the exhaust system

You must have an old version of the disc then as mine has both. In case you haven't realised there is a haynes manual now that covers the MK2 pd engines the manual number is 5556.

It's the favourite topic this time of year :(

It's not as straight forward as that, R 24 refers to the relay location slot Check out the link below all will be revealed. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/page__p__68423#entry68423

Yours has obviously been tinkered with before. Here is the link to the section in the FAQ'S on removal and as you can see this member left the plug connected and worked on the heater while still connected. Pics start on page 6 thread 81 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/3623-aux-heater/page__st__75

I would check the fuel pump relay first, iirc relay 167

You need to lower the heater with the bracket attached 4 bolts then remove the 2 nuts that separate the bracket the wire is long enough providing it hasn't been misrouted, you need to squeeze the sides of the plug to release the lugs then pull apart

Sorry to say yes head gasket.

Firstly the run on pump not working will not stop an engine overheating it's job is to stop heat build up in the cylinder head and aid circulation through the rear compartment heater and correct operation of the booster heater. What you need to do first is confirm the engine water pump is OK because it's a known problem that the impeller can shear off or spin on the shaft, you can physically check this by removing thermostat housing which is where the lower radiator pipe attaches to the block, you can see the impeller through the opening. Also check to see if coolant is being returned to the bottle through the small pipe on top of bottle. Of course there could be a blockage in the system but air entering the system is most likely to be head gasket failure

Removing wires from multiplug. Each lead has two tangs that need depressing to remove without bending them but if your replacing just pull each wire with a pair of pliers.

Engine cutting out after immediately after starting sounds like an immobiliser issue? have you changed the battery in your key fob recently, you may have dropped the chip from the key. Have you a spare key to try.

It sounds very much like normal operation of the heater, unfortunately there is always a smell associated with the heater but exhaust should be clear once heater is up to speed.

Am intrigued why would you want to do that?

As you don't appear to have any boost issues logged I would be looking at the MAF sensor as they don't always through a fault code but can be seen when live data is collected when using VCDS lite, you could also try unplugging MAF and see if there's any noticeable difference (better or worse)

You can get glow plugs on ebay and the net but you need to confirm which heater you have, if you do decide a dealer is your option then go to VW. As far as i'm aware it was 2004 models onwards had the D5WZ-F model so again you need to confirm in case it's been changed from the original. The run on pump (auxiliary coolant pump) is dumb so will not store a code if it's packed up.