chrispb123456

Bet it's not as cold as it is here -3c at the mo.

You need to get the elm 327 interface to be able to connect to the Ford 2.3 engine, or use VCDS for everything but the engine. Interface cables elm327 & Vagcom/VCDS lite available from ebay.

Firstly you need to check for diagnostic codes stored as this can help with diagnosis, fluid level is critical and changing fluid can help but the gearbox has a series of solenoid valves and associated wiring which may be your problem.

Have a look and see if the belt could have whipped of the small vacuum hose running down to the turbo actuator.

Try 31, 32, 34.

Snap I have a 61 reg 2.0TDCI Galaxy Titanium 163ps manual. Really struggle to get 37.5 and soon as any weight in car goes down even more, it's done nearly 12.000mls now and had it's first service and I commented to Ford dealer about this, their reply was that was normal for them and to take no notice what it says in the handbook.

The first thick cable nearer the battery is the lead to the alternator, the second lead is the power supply to the central junction box (fuse box) inside the car. If the terminals on the cables are still serviceable they should be soldered, or replace terminals either way they need soldering to avoid further problems.

Check the alternator clutch pulley hasn't seized as this can cause problems with the steering, can also give noise like the belt is slipping.

This is sounding more like DMF/Clutch than driveshaft!

Relay 30 is a good place to start, it can cause both your problems Part no from VW 165906381 Ford 7203442

Hi The reason I mentioned the floor is there is a bunch of wires on that side that powers the diagnostic socket and several other things. Finding the fault on diagnostics can be time consuming to find as you may need to disconnect each module in turn. Aftermarket radio's can also affect diagnostics Hopefully a wiring fault in the door to body gaiter or a door switch is causing the problem, but fault may be in the instrument cluster itself. Getting back to the boost issue using a turbo cleaner some members have reported good results albeit not that straight forward as the turbo needs to be blanked off temporarily, others myself included removed the turbo and cleaned all the soot and gunge. If you do a lot of town driving you should be giving it an Italian tune up regularly to avoid this happening. Definition of an Italian tune up if you don't know already. Uphill gradient 3rd gear full throttle 4000 RPM and hold it for as long as poss, (conditions permitting of course) and cam belt in good condition.

Hi and welcome Sounds like you have an over boost or possibly underboost problem (same symptoms) that is reset by turning engine off and restarting, this could be sticking turbo vanes, turbo actuator, N75 valve, or faulty pipe work. You also have a fault on the diagnostics which is going to need sorting first, is there also a problem with the central locking? Do you know if the passenger side footwell has been wet in the past?

Check the roll restrictor (rear engine mount) you will need to remove the undertray to do this.

Assuming it's a 2005 MK2 (P reg and 2005 don't go together) Open the battery fuse box see if it's gone into melt down.

Loose or broken engine mountings can give clutch judder, if the clutch has been changed before it could be down to the way it was refitted, if the clutch wasn't aligned correctly this would make it difficult when engaging the gearbox input shaft through the clutch plate and can end up bending the boss on the clutch plate. Leakage of oil or fluid could also give this problem always more noticeable in 1st & reverse

Have you considered the constant drain from the radio, clock, alarm/immobiliser just a thought!

Check relay 109 (third layer of fuse box) this is the one that usually causes starting problems and flashing glow plug indicator, incidentally what's the drivers door LED doing when you try to start .

Door gaiter wiring first thing to check, you may have chaffed bare and shorting wiring.

Think I would be checking out the doors and tailgate wiring first as this is a known fault with wiring chaffing and shorting.

Try here http://www.ford.co.uk/OwnerServices/Owners-Manual

Going back to your first post you mention about being drove through a puddle! If water had been drawn in through air intake this could have damaged the MAF sensor, and worst case water into combustion chamber/s causing hydraulic lock with the consequence of bent con rods which could give low compression.

Switch is on the side of oil filter housing.

If your referring to smoke from the small exhaust pipe under the passenger side this is the booster heater, nothing to do with the air con. You may need a new glow plug if smoke doesn't clear, do a search on booster heater there's 30+ pages of info on here.

No it's your dipped beam that's not working so you need H7 The bulbs are accessed from engine compartment, the drivers side being the easier as space is limited. Have you not got a handbook for the car as it explains the procedure for changing bulbs.

Sounds like a price for a complete new headlamp unit, the headlamp bulbs are replaceable separately. H7 For dipped beam H1 For main beam Between five and ten pounds depending where you get them and what quality.