chrispb123456

The 12 volt socket(s) are normally at floor level on the left side of the tailgate opening, this supplies power to those plug in accessories you can get but always check power consumption usually a maximum of 15 amps is allowed.

High Omar The default setting for latency is 16, this needs to be reduced to 2 or 3 These are the instructions when using windows XP You can change latency setting by going to device manager, you do not have to be connected to the car just connect the lead to the laptop. From control panel double click on system then click the hardware tab, now click device manager and look down the list for Ports(COM&LPT double click this then double click USB serial port, this will open the serial port properties box, click on port settings tab then click advanced, you should now be at advanced settings for your COM. Look for Latency timer(msec) and change the setting to 2 or 3 do not alter any other setting then click OK Do not use the auto scan feature it will only work with the full version, this is not a problem just scan each module separately Not all modules are relevant to your car and will show no response from controller. It certainly looks like you have an issue with the injector wiring loom, this is what it looks like see link below http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-VW-1-9-8v-TDI-PD-Head-Injector-Wiring-Loom-for-PD115-PD130-PD150-/130700558700?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item1e6e5c416c am not saying buy one but would certainly be checking here first. As for the fuel gauge there is an inspection panel in the floor under the middle row of seats under the carpet for access to the tank unit, I would be checking for bad connection there or a faulty tank unit. I see some of the fault codes have not returned this may be because they are old faults and have been rectified

Use a laptop with one of the <£10 leads from ebay then download the free software from Ross-Tech. Check out the links below. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-Compatible-VCDS-LITE-or-409-/330753371108?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d026febe4 http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html This will allow you to scan each module individually and clear any fault codes you don't need to register to do this

Hi leo311981 I believe there's a switch in the power steering hydraulic circuit which raises the idle speed a small amount, what you were saying about the throttle position sensor causing revs taking a long time to come back down to idle I had this problem with a cougar, turned out to be the multiplug connector to the TPS one of the pins had pushed back in the plug so was not connecting. As for clutched pulleys they are turning up everywhere now, your alternator may have been replaced with the clutch type. You say you have disconnected the "mass idle meter" I think your referring to the MAF sensor (mass air flow) as unplugging the idle control valve will cause the engine to cut out. If it is the MAF that your changing make sure it's the same type/number as your old unit as they all look similar.

Be aware that aftermarket radio's will affect the diagnostic's circuit on the car

Could be any number of things but what springs to mind is oil dripping/running onto exhaust, maybe a leaking breather hose or leaking cam cover or oil seal.

You keep referring to relay 209, the power supply relay is 109 This needs to supply a constant 12 volts to the engine ECU when cranking. Flashing glow plug light means a fault has been stored, it could also mean you have a faulty brake light switch (are your brake lights working properly) Fuse 14 blowing randomly could be down to chaffed/bare wiring, look around fuel pump area and behind instrument cluster for this. If you still have the black colour 109 relay and not the newer grey one I would also change that aswell as the black ones have known issues with bad solder joints. A single beep from the dash after cranking is low battery voltage

Right update just been out to the car with a torch, 3 plugs right hand side below light cluster, 1 black 1 pink 1 brown. Look at the brown plug 1 grey wire from loom 1 grey and white going to tailgate and that's exactly how it shows it in the wiring diagram

Am going to have a look at mine when the daughter comes back with it, will let you know.

You really need to scan your car with Vagcom/VCDS lite, you may have an electrical fault in the wiring to the injectors, the lead can be purchased from ebay for under a tenner then download the free software from ross-tech.

As said in previous post, grey from lighting switch to the connector in R/H D pillar then grey/white to each lamp

Just to clear any confusion the housing where the sensor fits is not the thermostat housing, the thermostat lives in cylinder block where the bottom hose attaches to the block. The temperature sensor has a duel function sending info to the ECU and operating temp gauge.

Omar thats interesting, but what software would you use to connect with the S-Max/Mk3 Galaxy

If powers restored after an engine restart then it's likely to be a boost problem, deciding whether it's under or over boost you'll need to scan for fault codes as symptoms are similar but cause can be different. You cannot bypass the N75 valve and expect it to run OK it will just register a fault and go into limp mode.

Unless you intend or need to recode modules or turn on or off specific functions, stick with the free version, you can do irreversible damage by changing settings unless you fully understand what you are doing.

Yes this is the type lead members here use, OBDII KKL then download the software free from rosstech. http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

Hi Omar first of all would advise you to get your own diagnostic lead from ebay see link and do your own diagnostic check, some of those faults may be old, what you need to do is clear the fault codes go for a drive and see what codes come back. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-Compatible-VCDS-LITE-or-409-/330753371108?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d026febe4#ht_4445wt_1163 You haven't explained the problems your having but looking down the list. 1. 17965 is positive deviation turbo overboost this can be sticking turbo vanes and can be intermittent 2. 19463 Faulty wiring or faulty cam sensor 3. 17978 PATS chip may have been lost from key fob when changing battery. 4.18075 & 16686 linked to faulty injector wiring, faulty injector or even badly worn camshaft lobes

If you can't access the FAQ's you must be using internet explorer don't, use firefox or google chrome. You can use the link below to help with removal of the lower dash plastic. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/page__p__68423&do=findComment&comment=68423 And below link to no 27 hints http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8351-fitting-a-new-brake-light-switch/page__p__63453&do=findComment&comment=63453

Ah ha for some reason thought you had a Mk2, are the hoses in good condition? not collapsed or blocked is the actual valve leaking or are the pipes a loose fit causing a leak. Hopefully not excess crankcase pressure

Check the coolant pipes to the rear heater are getting hot (under car) if they are then possible air flap motor stuck in cold position.

I must be psyclick lol

Hi and welcome to the forum Belt may indeed be broken but this may have been caused by a seized aircon pump and/or pulley

Not sure what you mean by pressure regulating valve. Could you mean EGR valve, this sits on top at the back of the engine, there is a small hole where oil escapes from when the valve is worn. The valve does not come apart so will need replacing if the leak is to bad.

New shape Zafira?

Make a note of the faults or print them off then clear faults and see what comes back after a drive. Have a look at number 3 injector it has an electrical connector, make sure the connector is clean and properly connected.