chrispb123456

Think the 53mm one has a foam layer over the paper the 45mm has no foam. Iv'e had both types in mine and they both fitted no problem, it's only the thickness of the rubber seal that may cause a problem getting the lid on.

Would advise you take off the passenger side scuff plate and trim panel and follow the pipe back up behind the dash and through the bulkhead, you will also come across the dreaded joint that comes apart, usually when it freezes. Do yourself a favour wrap a small cable tie across the joint to prevent any problem there

There's actually 4 bolts holding the headlight unit, two on the top that's the two under the black caps, the there's two lower ones. One is just behind the front grill the other is in a recess you need a ¼ drive torx socket with a long extension.

Has the screen size changed for all programs or just VCDS, Have you checked display settings in control panel, mine is set on 1024 X768 you can close any open page on the keyboard by pressing, Alt F4 together

After reading this check subframe mounting bolts are tight, worth a look.

Is this a continuous noise from horn or could it be the alarm horn as they sound similar, the alarm horn is behind the wiper linkage, the others are behind the O/S fog light. If you could confirm which it is.

Have you checked the rear engine mounting (roll restrictor) for play, can you rock the engine back and forth? The galaxy driveshaft iirc are the same either side except the O/S has an intermediate shaft with splines that wear and can cause total drive failure when the splines fail. Worn CV joints are more noticeable when cornering and tend to quieten when in a straight line. Worn wheel bearings tend to whine as road speed increases and is also more noticeable when cornering. Another possibility is your DMF (duel mass flywheel) is breaking up with noises and vibration

The controller for the heater is inside the heater it needs a 12 volt supply to comunicate with VCDS. Fuse 12 is the power supply for the heater if that's OK you need to check the large red wire on the heater multiplug, this has been known to corrode and break off at the plug.

1.Right so you have the 115ps code AUY 2."Seatkids Italian tune up" lol it's not really his anyone can do it though you will be hard pushed to do it at the moment the way yours is running. It's better used as a preventative measure to help clear sticky soot build up in the turbo vanes mechanism which is possibly what you have. Definition of an "Italian tune up" ideally an open stretch of road on an incline say third gear on manuals and third using tiptronic on auto's then floor the throttle up to 4000 to 4500 RPM and hold it there as long as conditions permit, This is mainly for cars that do a lot of stop start town driving, if you do regular motorway driving then no so essential. Only attempt if servicing is up to date, EG. cam belt and oil level and engine at full operating temperature. 3.Not necessarily, the turbo oil seals may be fine but the vanes may be sticking. There is also a lot of vacuum pipe work and boost valve (N75) that controls the actuator which operates the vanes.

The MK2 models are 90. 115. 130. 150 Whilst it certainly sounds like limp mode I think you need to confirm whether it's under or over boost, the symptoms are similar but not the fix. If you have a laptop preferably XP get yourself one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-Compatible-VCDS-LITE-or-409-/330753371108?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d026febe4 Then go to here and download the free third party software http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html Use the help section on above if your not sure how to install or come back and ask.

I have owned all the marques both the MK2 & MK3 have the aero blades but I still prefer the MK1 blades for there quietness and clean sweep.

Yes the wiper arms have splines on the inside Yes these models do have problems with the linkage seizing up, the link below shows how to free the spindles in the alloy housings http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/7338-front-wipers-creeping-up-the-screen/&do=findComment&comment=82520 I would say the nuts weren't tight enough in the first place, it not normal for them to come loose but some people have a problem removing the arms to do the above operation, maybe yours has been done but the nuts were not tightened to the correct torque. You will need to replace the arms, not sure if the MK2 arm and blade will work with the MK1 mechanism, the timing is critical and they may clash with each other Personally I think MK1 blades in good condition are better and certainly quieter than the aero blades Grease is not a problem providing nut is torqued correctly 15Ib .ft or 20Nm

Remove plug from blower run a pair of leads from battery to blower, blower should run at full speed.

Have you tried putting a 12 volt supply straight to the blower just to confirm blower is OK.

Good God your running a 2.8 v6 and this is expensive :16: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-Compatible-VCDS-LITE-or-409-/330753371108?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d026febe4

Remove the ashtray and cover it's underneath.

Check out Ford VCM for Galaxy's up to 2010, you cannot use Vagcom/VCDS

Have you checked inside the battery fuse box for meltdown.

Have a look at the link below. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/16759-resistor-pack-removal-of-glove-box/?hl=%2Bremoving+%2Bresistor+%2Bpack Bear in mind the pics are left hand drive so will look slightly different but you should be looking for the green socket/plug.

Yes if you have manual controls you have the resistor pack, if you have climatronic with the digital display you have a controller commonly called the hedgehog which is self evident if you see it. They are both located in the same place next to the blower, you need to remove the glove box to access.

That's strange I can still open the tailgate with the battery disconnected providing I hold the key over while pulling the door. Get in from work 4am Soldering the wires is best and use heat shrink but the joints must be in the door and pillar not in the gaiter where they are subject to movement

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have the wiring problem in the gaiter again? did you cut the bad bits right out and solder in new cables? or just rejoin the old cables. The latter always fails when the joint is in the gaiter. You should be able to open the tailgate using the key providing it's not seized up from lack of use, turning the key fully anticlockwise unlocks.

Thanks for that guys :blush:

You can get your own diagnostic cable Vagcom/VCDS for less than £10 then connect to a laptop and read off your fault codes.

I cant wait to tell my missus your away in the french alps skiing and you still posting on the forums, that's dedication. :rolleyes: ps hows the heater.