chrispb123456

The VW part number of the plug with the wires attached that fits the D5WZ is 7M3963319A. Eberspacher number is 25 2106 01 1000 Beru GH001 0100 226 340 is the correct one without wires.

Maybe a faulty crank or cam sensor, should show up when codes read.

You also need to check the splice joint passenger side footwell (red and white wires) No fuses in that range

This is the lead http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-Compatible-VCDS-LITE-or-409-/330753371108?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d026febe4 The free VCDS/lite software is available here http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html The DLC is under the ashtray, lift out ashtray and cover More advice on the Ross tech site or ask on here for more info

There is a poorly spliced joint (bunch of red and white wires twisted together) under the carpet n/s passenger footwell, worth a look as this causes a few problems, it the carpet has been wet from the disconnected rear washer pipe.

Galaxy's with VW engines that's the 1.9 diesels and the 2.8 petrol can use the vagcom/VCDS cable, the 2.0 & 2.3 Ford petrol engines use the elm 327

When you replaced the glow plug was it the one with wires attached or the one with a small nut on the terminal? and did you check the gauze where the glow plug fits as these can burn away causing the plug to overheat. If the pump is pumping the fuel then it's unlikely changing the pump will benefit, the amount of fuel delivered is controlled by the heater module not by the pump. Check your glow plug and gauze again, if it's gone open circuit again replace the gauze and fit the ceramic plug (the type with wires attached) VW number 7M3963319A

Blimey mate your sure getting your monies worth out of that dosing pump :16: and still on the original glow plug that's amazing. Well done :16:

There is detailed instructions on here (do a search) for removing dash, you only need to remove the lower section and the passenger air bag according to the TIS manual.

This is a copy of an email I received back from the Department of Transport regarding the blanking off of the EGR valve. In answer to your recent question, I can respond as follows; Disabling of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) systems on road vehicles is indeed illegal. Regulation 61a(3) of the Road Vehicles (Construction & Use) Regulations as amended make it an offence to use a vehicle that has been modified in such a way that it no longer complies with the emissions standards which it was designed to meet. EGR systems are commonly fitted to diesel cars and vans (and some petrol vehicles) to meet mandatory NOx emissions limits Mark Heverin Freight, Operator Licensing & Roadworthiness DfT My question was, is it legal to blank off the EGR valve, and was there anything in the pipeline as regards checking operation of EGR in the MOT test. It may help you decide if you were considering blanking off the EGR valve

Ignore the registering message. It does allow more functions which you need to know what your doing, you could change settings that would render car unusable

You don't need to register for normal DIY jobs, you will not be able to use the autoscan feature, just scan each module.

Sounds like classic head gasket failure

Hi Mindspace As I said there is a knack to this, you need at least a club hammer and get the steering on full lock to expose the arm it's full extent, then a sharp blow!! tap tap tap will not work, You need to hit the arm end on as in direction of arrow.

It's been a while since I done one but it's either 22 or 24mm

Either a ball joint extractor or a blow from a large hammer to the end of the arm, the shock will release the joint although there can be a knack to doing this that you only get from experience.

Will need to be about - 10degs before you notice it stay on longer.

Ah the S32 splice joint proper quality that one usually wires just twisted together with a bit of rubbish tape around.

Hi Am guessing you have the D5WZ-F model prone to ECU failure, Send Steve at Butlerbus Technik a message they are very helpful steve.winter@butlertechnik.com or phone 01427 787121 Or contact Dieselheaters4U and Heaterpartsdirect on Ebay

I can tell you in my experience with these heaters the glow plug is the most common failure part, the ecu on the D3 & D5WZ is pretty reliable. I have only checked/replaced glowplug with heater stripped down. One thing I will say is if that heater is still the original and not been apart before you may have a problem removing the screws securing the heater ecu and top covers. Good luck.

They are pretty inexpensive iirc £15 worth a try. May pay you to invest in a Vagcom/VCDS lead (£10 ebay) and do your own scans

The brake light switch also places box in neutral when waiting to pull away, check your brake lights are working correctly, other than that you will have to scan for fault codes as an incorrectly running engine will affect signals sent to transmission ecu

Right the VW disc has fuse 23, 30amp as the main supply then fuse 14,15amp supply to thermo switch In the TIS for the same year fuse 33, 30amp and fuse 14, 15amp There are known mistakes in the ford handbooks and the TIS manual Check the voltage at the fuse box fuse 14 depending on your spec other items also on this fuse, is there anything else not working.

agree stick 12 volts down the output of the thermo switch, will check the fuse numbers when I can get on my laptop lol I have a VAG disc as well as TIS, there are usually two fuses for the heater one 25amp and one 5amp will let you know.

Hi there You don't say what year your mk1 is? if it's a late one then you could use the mk2 pinpoint test not the component test as you have done. 2 volts is wrong at the thermo switch should be battery voltage so would say there's a supply fault. Also check out those thin wires on the battery terminals for corrosion/breaking