chrispb123456

Firstly what year model is your car? if it's a MK2 then it may be locked out for what could be a number of reasons. So you need to get a VCDS interface cable and software, then check for fault codes.

So your the same as mine except the engine mines the 163, i'm running at 38.5 at the moment after a weekend in Nottingham, wasn't hanging about so may have done better at a steady 56MPH how do you get on with the pull away/hill assist?

Is it the manual box or the powershift and is it the 140 or 163hp will be interested how your MPG goes.

May still be the bulbs at fault, try replacing bulbs first before digging to deep.

MAP sensor and manifold pressure sensor are the same item.

Mk 2's are actually easier to get at than the MK 1's in respect that there's no injector pipes in the way. Remove the plastic engine cover and lift of the foam sound deadening material and you will see the bus bar connector facing you. Then with bus bar removed.

Agree with Seatkid the turbine shaft floats on a film of oil with minimal metal to metal contact, roller bearings cannot achieve this.

As said you need to check it for fault codes, you may have repeated flame outs and/or overheats, is your run on pump working?

On ebay email Heaterpartsdirect Dieselheaters4u or http://sales.butlertechnik.com/ have dealt with all these in the past.

The light going out is the indication that you can start the engine but doesn't mean the plugs have switched off, when the engine is cold the plugs remain active up to about a minute this is to avoid smoke excess engine noise and keep emissions as low as possible.

If the fuses are OK check for power at the blower motor first it's behind the glove box.

Can you add a picture of the mod, will help to clarify what you have done.

Did you not mean number 3 injector Seatkid :rolleyes:

Good luck with the repair, there are quite a few area's prone to wiring faults.

Are you sure you don't just mean the injector wiring loom? VW part no.038971600 about £60

VW actually.

Mine was leaking from the cover held by about six small bolts, i tried sealer on the old gasket then made a new gasket still leaked. Bought a new tandem pump in the end just over £300

Hi Keeyth Sorry to be critical mate but could you add another piccy so we could see the exact area your indicating as these leaks are becoming more apparent lately.

Well done that man :)

If I was you I would start by removing the wire from terminal 8 on the ignition switch, with switch off test for voltage on switch terminal 8 if it's dead then switch is ok. If the removed wire is live then currant is flowing back from instrument cluster or central junction box.

Probably cheaper to get a secondhand radio with code than getting your own repaired. Never liked the idea of the cup holders directly above the radio and heater panel.

Stress these are only idea's Fault on ignition switch, not turning off that circuit Fuse 31 also supplies a feed to instrument cluster and central junction box, maybe getting reverse current flow from either of these. Additional items that may have been wired in that's now affecting this circuit. Was the original radio affected before change over.

You could have a small split in a hose which could be hard to see, check all air charge pipes carefully, loss of air charge pressure would be confirmed with an underboost code stored on the system.

I this noise just started suddenly? or is the car new to you? maybe noise is normal spooling noise from the turbo, is there any loss of power? if there isn't wouldn't be to concerned.

You need to set the multimeter to 20dc volts. The black probe to earth or use the brown wire on the connector and the red probe to the brown and red wire.