davewill

Bob Don't see any reason why not All seats have 3 point seat belt fixing so all types will go in securely if it was me i would put booster seat in the middle seat of row, and then baby seat (facing backwards) behind drivers seat (so that front seat passenger can easily see child) and baby seat behind passenger seat Let us know

Well i'll be blowed!! After reading copius notes on the forum on Air Con problems, one jerked my memory as it talked about the unit being "over gassed" Thinking back the guy at Kwik Fit said i'll put a bit extra in it as its a big car So, took it back again today and said there is no cold air coming out, please check and re gas to 725 + 25 as its the single air con unit The guy did, and after 20 mins said OK fixed now Drove it away and whey hey, ice cold air coming through Only bonus was it has now been re gassed 3 times in 2 months all for

Roy It is a Mkll (2006 last of the Mkll models) It was the question of whether it is standard or dual a/c that i was checking Thanks Actually have been quite impressed with Kwik Fit One off price of

Thanks for your advice guys Have driven it round for a couple of days now, and it feels like the air is colder than normal air being blown through, although not much cooler Took it back to Kwik Fit today and they checked it on their machine for leaks but said none found They re gassed it again (free of charge) and said give it another go Just one query i have is that i presume my model (2006 Mkll 1.9TDI Zetec with AC Button and Manual Blue to Red dials) is a Single standard aircon and needs 700 +50g coolant, as opposed to dual aircon that needs 1000 + 50g I looked at the label under the bonnet and it gives both pressures, but nowhere does it say whether mine is standard or dual (however as above i do assume its standard) Thanks

Radiotwo Hi Yes they did a "leak test" and nothing showed up I did notice last night that after i had been driving it for about 10 mins i did start to get cooler air through the vents. I turned off air con and felt temp of "normal air" then switched air con back on to see if cooler. I suppose in all honesty it was a bit but not majorly colder, so i think there is a problem somewhere So i suppose bottom line is: If there is no leak and the gas if fully recharged, why does it not produce very cold air???

Sorry guys, its an air con question again, but i would be grateful for thoughts I have a 2006 TDI 115 model with "basic" air con (i.e turn the knob to cold not computer set) Had it regassed last week for first time, and it was cold when done However by today there was no cold just normal warmish air Took it back, had it regassed, checked for leaks and none came up on recharging machine Drove it away and it still doesn't feel like cold air Therefore do you think this indicates compressor problem, or is there something else that could stop the air getting cold? Thanks

Dave where did you take it? ...... Funny ol thing .... My lad took his Fiesta yesterday to Furrows in Telford and I checked all the lights yesterday before I came into work. It failed on the N/S rear bulb which had apparently blown! What really annoyed me was the fact they charged him

SeatKid As far as i was aware my lights did work! I checked them last week and both rear lights were on Brake lights work OK also The point of my question was "does the rear light bulbs have a "failsafe" element in them?? Thanks

Just had my Gal MOT'd (Mkll 2006) and although it passed they commented that the two rear light bulbs had failed. They then said that the light bulbs were the same as on the Mondeo, as in if it fails, a "secondary" part of the bulb remains lit in order that you still have lights Is this correct, as i have never heard of this before??

My car insurance is up soon so i am digging around Current renewal with More Than is

Gregers you are correct :D After a quick discussion with them the price for the Major Care Policy was quickly reduced to

Hi My 2006 Mkll 1.9TDI Auto comes out of its 3 year warranty in March As i have had high repair bills on my previous Gal, i am interested in Warranty Got a quoted from these guys http://www.warrantydirect.co.uk/car-warranty.html of

Hi Guys Firstly i said credit where credit is due, just because i was please that the dealer had actually done the correct thing! My history with them over 5 years and 2 Galaxys has been fraut at times to say the least, due to incompitence! Regards the CAM Belt, yes it will be due at 60,000, i didn't have it done on this service as the cost was too much Warranty runs out in March, so i will send it back in then for a final warranty Health Check, and get them to do the CAM belt then Best Wishes Dave

Took my 2006 MkII in for a 50,000 mile service at the local Fraud dealer in Telford As my confidence in them has never been high, i decided this time to test them and ask what Oil they will be using when they change it. Me to Service desk youth: What grade of oil will you be using? Youth: The standard one that Ford recommend Me: But Oils are different and have different specs Youth: We get it "en mass" from Fords, and distill it from a large barrel Me: Well i would like to know the specific oil that is used on mine i.e 505.1 or 505.01 or whatever Youth: I think its 10w/40 but i will ask the service manager to check Me: OK Collected the car and a different person went through what had been done. He asked me if i had been told what Oil had been used, but if not don't worry as they had left the bottle in the car with what had been used When i got outside i removed the bottle from the bag to check I couldn't believe it, they had actually used Oil to VW Spec 505.01 :rolleyes: Also replaced a drive gater under warranty, and a charge of

I've got a 2006 Mkll model, and the problem is that the rear offside door doesn't always lock, and then again if it does lock, doesn't always open when the remote fob is pressed It started last week when we had a lot of frost and freezing weather Its still under warranty so i'm taking it in soon for frauds to have a look at it I was just wondering though, is there a motor on each door that activates and then de-activates the locking mechanism? If not any thoughts as to why this lock and unlock problem should occur? Thanks

Well the Wanli tyres have just been changed after 13,500 miles Overall i'm quite happy with that considering they are "budget" tyres and the Dunlop SP Sports i had before were shot after 10,000 In fairness the Wanli's still had a few mm of tread on them, but in wet conditions i was getting wheel spin when pulling away from junctions even if i was not accelerating hard, and also getting bad understeer when negotiating smaller roundabouts (theres lots of them in Telford) I have gone for another budget brand this time recommended by a HI Q tyre depot. These (can't remember name) were

A properly driven manual is more efficient than an auto, gears can be changed when the driver wants not when the ECU decides, this has been thrashed out before and im ready for the flaming from the auto camp but even the manufacturers figures show that manuals are the more fuel efficient. In the case of a 115 TDi MkII the combined cycle figures show a 6mpg saving for the manual over the auto and 33g/km less CO2. Tiny I appreciate your comments and the "official" figures on Manual v Auto. But, from my point view having driven both modes over the last 3 years, the Auto certainly gives more mpg. Now this may be because on my current Auto version is cruise control, that wasn't on my manual version. So, on a trip to London via M6 Toll Road, M42/ M40 etc, i use cruise control as much as possible and achieve around 40 - 41mpg most timkes on this journey. With the Manual and no Cruise control, i could only manage 36-37mpg on the same journey. I also feel that when driving the auto you don't tend to boot down the accelerator butv take things a bit easier. I do appreciate that the Manual has a 6 gear box, and the auto is a 5 gear box, so revs at 70mph will be higher in the auto. Of the two versions give me the auto every time ;)

Chrissy Is it Manual or Auto? Mines an Auto (1.9 Tdi Zetec) and its gonna be a lot more expensive to tax than the manual version, even though i can get 5 to 6 mpg more Politicians - Hate em :o

For months and months now i have been experiencing terrible reception on MW on my 6006 unit It seemed to worsen the longer the journey was, and was also effected by bumps on the road It got to a stage this week, where it was barely possible to listen to Talk Sport or Radio 5 Dead as the background hiss and crackle was unbearable Out of frustration i removed the unit using the two long clip things, pushed the ariel connection in (although it was not loose) and then carefully slid the unit back in until it locked. Upon turning the radio on, there was no hiss and crackle ;) and since then reception has been fine I can only assume the ariel connection was loose, but on saying that FM reception has always been fine Would the "seating" of the unit in the dashboard cause bad reception, and by taking it out and pushing it back, this has made a better connection?? Anyway if you have bad MW reception just try removing and re-installing the radio, you never know it may work

I swopped my standard 6000 model for a 6006 multi CD in my Mkll model Mostly MW reception is OK (not brilliant) but occasionally it almost gives up, with hisses and crackles obliterating the sound (thats on TalkSport and not quite as bad on Radio 5 "Dead" ;) 909 & 693) I have checked the arial connection on the back side window but everything seems OK with this What i have noticed is that if reception is bad, i turn over to FM frequency leave it there for aminute and then turn back to MW. Reception then improves every time :D Any ideas on this would be appreciated

Mary Hope you like the new Gal Personally,

I agree with the other posts Its the rest of the car that falls apart before the engine does Old favourites like clutch, master cylinder, Air Con, drive shafts, gear selectors, water pump, cam belt, all combine to make the cost of keeping the car very high, when you get past about 80k miles If Ford/VW/SEAT (whichever version you own) could have made the whole vehicle reliable then keeping it up to 150k to 200k miles would have represented great VFM

Unfortunately when CD's start getting stuck in the 6006, or won't eject, this is the start of major problems I experienced this with a 6006, and although i was able to take the cover off it and remove the CD's, when i tried to load again (with different CD's) i still had problems with them sticking, not loading etc Ultimately i ended up buying another one off e-bay, then selling mine for spares or repair :wacko: The only remedy is to send it off for specialist repair but i don't know cost I remember someone on e-bay offering a repair service for 6006 so this may help

Hi I live in the Midlands, and we flew out of Heathrow on hols There were 7 of us in the Gal (1.9Tdi Auto 2006 Mkll) plus a roof box with 5 cases/bags in it, and 2 large suitcases in the back of the Gal My route was A5 then M6, M42, M40, M25 into Heathrow about 140 miles in total. Average was 60mph and i used cruise control a lot of the way (it was a Sunday morning between 6.00am and 9.00am) I do this route into London quite often and with only me in the car i average 40 - 41mpg Fully loaded up as described, have a guess at what the mpg was? (Answer below) 31.6mpg So if you have a roof box fitted - take it off when not in use and save fuel!!

This is a link to show CO2 on the Galaxy range Just put your own model in to the "search engine page" http://www.smmtco2.co.uk/co2search2.asp