Jump to content
Ford Galaxy Owners Club

Bigjeeze

Moderator
  • Posts

    2,077
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bigjeeze

  1. Many thanks Chris I am sooooo old!!
  2. It could just be valve stem seals - Mine does this - in the morning on first start there is a little cloud of smoke but this doesn't reappear until the engine is perfectly cool . Unless it's using a lot I wouldn't worry too much.
  3. One thing to remember is that the gearbox is very very heavy!! Around 100kg - you will need two people one underneath and one on top to help take the weight - The jack only gets you so far then you have to manually lower it .
  4. [qdoes this mean the vag com needs to reset the heater again many thanks for your help will post codes here soon as, water pump leaking so timing belt to be changed soon as, it's also due clock just got round to 83000 miles. thanks for your advice paul Hi Paul Yes may have locked out due to flame errors, then you will need VagCom to clear fault codes. You may also want to check your electric coolant pump as this will affect the operation of the heater, although I think yor priority is your leaking water pump/cambelt. I am not so sure - I have replaced my glow plug on my MK2 twice now and neither time did I need to reset any codes - Once the glowplug was fitted it just started up. Maybe I was just lucky?:)
  5. I drilled a couple of holes in mine to stop the water gathering there - Seemed like the obvious thing to do - Amazing that it's taken them around 13 years to redesign that part!!
  6. Well given that essentially every time it is bled ir works I am afraid it points very definitely to the slave cylinder. Whether there is anything more sinister will have to wait until the gearbox is removed. Sorry but that's how it appears.
  7. No chance - I wouldn't be able to bear the hurt look in all your eyes once you realised that you lot are so damn ugly ( except mumof4) and I am so good looking!!:wacko:
  8. Battery acid will not make holes in plastic - so unless it's a metaqllic pipe that won't be the cause.
  9. Probably because it will listed as a "Limp Mode" problem - tyr looking for that issue and you will have plenty to look at.
  10. Sounds like there is insufficient fluid in the system and that as it heats up it's either leaking or boiling away.
  11. I would firstly check that the PATS chip hasn't come out of the key. Then I would look at the battery and get it checked - also have you enough fuel? if the car is low on fuel and parked on a slope that can sometimes cause an issue with starting.
  12. My MK1 doesn't have one - but maybe mines odd?
  13. IIRC the dials do a test on re connection of the battery. The gauge moving about sounds like a resistance problem - it is usually a resistor that damps the action of the fuel tank sender. I am not sure how this is accomplished on the Shalaxy. As to the speedo - if it was working when you removed the engine then you have done something to it! However, I think it must be linked to the fuel gauge problem - whatever that is. Any of you electrical geniuses any ideas?
  14. Try changing the bulb then!!!:(
  15. One other possible springs to mind - Do you have a sunroof? I recall tha soemone on here recently had a leak that was traced to the Sun roof drains being blocked or had come apart. If you have a sun roof that might be worth exploring.
  16. He obviously didn't want to be stuffed!
  17. To the best of my recollection the drain for the Air con is under the bonnet down the back of the engine - It is a black plastic/rubber pipe that is plugged inot the bulkhead. In niormal operation you can see water puddling underneath it. It should be relatively easy to find and esnure it is clear. Have you checked the usual culprits? The drains either side of the bulkhead - You will have to remove the plastic inner wing to ensure they are clear. Good luck!
  18. Changing the MAF is going to be the cheapest option - but first test it. Just unplug the MAF and see if the engine runs the same or worse. If worse then it's unlikely to be the fault - if no different then it probably is. You could also try turbo cleaner - one of those sprays you can buy from Halfrods etc around
  19. Have a read in the FAQ's - I think that you don't need VAG COm to reset the Aux heater. If it has a problem it will lock out after a number ( I think & of flameouts). If there is a fault such as the glow plug - once replaced the aux heater will start up automatically. Basically you need to fix a fault - not clear it.
  20. Not sure exactly where they be - perhaps some of the pirates on here can tell you
  21. Well just when I thought the world had gone to sh*t you turn up to brighten our days. How the devil are you? The forum hasn't been the same without you - Gregers is too ugly and the rest of them ain't much better! Welcome back:D
  22. I am sure some of the whizzier kids on here will provide you with an exact answer, but for starters - I am assuming you are positive there are no leaks anywhere on the system? Are there any calipers sticking open?. If all of those are good and you are certain that the Master Cylinder is good then I might suspect the servo. That said I think the symptoms may also point to rear calipers not being wound in when the pads were last changed - If you don't wind them in then you might get a similar problem. Good luck!!
  23. Are you using the on board computer to check your figures? If so I would do a proper check. Fill the car up to the brim then check and see what it has actually used. The computer is not totally trustworthy. Also turn off the air con if not required that may save you some fuel and don't forget you will lose some fuel to the booster heater in this cold weather so that may reduce your MPG by 4-5 mpg. Lastly - keep the right foot off the pedal - if you have cruise control - use it on journeys. BJ
×
×
  • Create New...