Bigjeeze

You can buy new buttons - they come in a kit of two - I bought some for my MK1 last Feb - Ford Part Number 1071479 COst

I replaced my clutch at Christmas - The DMF was retail

I have no real idea what the problem is - but as for changing it on the roadside - I would say that undoing all the necessary bits & pieces is OK but you do have to remember that you need either an engine support bar or two jacks because once you have taken off the gearbox mounting (under the battery) then you need to support the engine & gearbox . Then once you have it undone you need to lower the whole thing - down slightly (gearbox side) to get the box off - it needs to be rotated slightly to get if off -then beware because it is extremely heavy!!. I couldn't lift it on my own (without giving up my masculine voice) - I needed my son to help me - It probably weighs around 100Kgs +. Apart from that it's fairly straighforward.

WHat model do you have - Year etc?

Not a fair comment - I have two current Galaxy's I have had to replace the glow plug on my MK2 2 years ago - it is a 2001 model and my MK1 which is a 1997 model (both have approx 140K miles on the clock) now needs a new one at 11 years old - so I think you are being unfair they are reliable in general. BJ

Well my Gal passed the MOT yesterday - 140K plus miles - new clutch (and now working cruise control) - the only comment was that one of the bottom wishbone bushes was starting to separate - other than that, alls well. Lets see how far I can get before the next major repair. I can't calculate exactly how much this site has saved me - but it must run into at least

Thanks Kev - you are absolutely correct - I have done it and my Cruise control is now working. Many thanks indeed. Regards BJ

Well tried that but no joy - I cannot see or feel any adjustment on this switch so am at a loss as to how to rectify it. As far as I can tell the switch is "on" when your foot is not on the clutch and off when it is - thus taking off the cruise control - On mine the pedal seems either not to go as far back as it used to - or the switch is somehow shorter or needs some adjustment as the switch is not on when the pedal is released. Is anyone aware of any adjustment or will I need to put a small packing piece on the pedal to make sure it contacts - or even replace the switch? Any help gratefully received. BJ

One way of looking at this so called cheap technology is to ask - if it works why isn't it being used? NickPV being a Physics teacher could perhaps explain to us how this might actually work ( the electrolysis element) because I don't think it does. If I remember my schoolboy science the only way you can easily get Hydrogen is to use Hydrochloric acid and chuck in some chalk or marble (Calcium Carbonate) and that somewhere along the line it gives off Hydrogen (Of course I might have that totally wrong!!) (Well it was 30 plus years a go)

Thanks Kev will give it a try. Regards BJ

Hi All Well the clutch is fitted and all is well - everything seems to be working fine - except I have lost my cruise control - I am thinking this may be due to taking out the Clutch master cylinder and the pedal - Can anyone confirm how the switch can be adjusted? I didn't remove it but I don't know if I have distrubed it in any way - or - is there something I haven't doen on the gearbox end? The VSS sensor springs to mind but it was re fitted correctly. I'd be gratefull for any advice. Regards BJ

Well the gearbox is now back in the car - reasonably straightforward although so heavy it needed two of us to manouvre it around. I just have to re install the Drive shafts and the battery tray etc and then bleed the clutch. I'll post some pics of the clutch plates - I didn't bother with pics of the removal etc as it is fairly ordinary - just time consuming getting all the peripherals off. The one thing I thought would be difficult was the gear change cables - but these are much easier than on the MK1. Progress report tomorrow when I finish - it's too bloody cold out there!

Happy new Year to One and all Hope it's a good one for you. BJ

After a sleepless night worrying about it I decided to buy a new DMF - Got it from GSF at

Thanks - but I need to get the thing back together - As far as I can judge there was no rattling, no clunking no issues with the clutch prior to the failure - The surface looks fine - no lines no scoring etc - The driven plate had the material off the gearbox side - IE the pressure plate so any damage was restricted to that side (although there wasn't any ). I'll just have to re install and hope like hell all is ok BJ

DMF - can anyone please tell me how to judge if this is OK or not - On a visual inspection it seems fine - there are no loose or rattley bits - How do I test it?

Well

I managed to bleed the system via the bleed nipple but to no avail so I am now starting to take the gearbox off. I have doen all of the "up top" so far - but it's too bloody cold to creep about under the car today - I have two garages but neither one is big enough to get the Gal in. So another progress report tomorrow when I get the box off.

I managed to remove the MC and re fit the new one - with a lot of swearing and cursing!!. I have tried bleeding it but so far with no success. I only havce a pressure bleeder and this one appears to need a vacuum one - ANyone got any suggestions? Maybe I am doing it wrongly?

OK first problem! I have removed the hydraulics and undone the two bolts that hold the MC but I can't work out how to get the MC out of the pedal. There is a ball on the end of the MC actuating arm that clips into the pedal - I can't see how to get it out. TIS says to take out the pedal and shows you various diagrams illustrating the return spring mechanism - unfortunately it doesn't match what ! have - so at the moment the MC is hanging from the ball joint into the clutch pedal. I gave up after the strain of workng in a mirror became too much - I'll have another try tomorrow. If anyone has any suggestions I'd be very grateful!! BJ

I have bought a new MC and will attempt to fit it tonight/tomorrow.

Might be the MAF? ( Mass Air Flow Sensor) Do a search - there are loads of articles on those in here. Try disconnecting it - if nothing changes then it's shot - if the performance takes a dive then it isn't that!

Thanks Criag - It does sound daft - but I will certainly give it a try. I have tried bleeding using an eezibleed but from the TIS it appears to be a vaccum type rather than pressure. I have no loss of fluid from the MC or apprently the slave. SO hopefully it is the MC. I'll give it a wiggle and see how it goes. Thanks again BJ

Dump the male flight attendants. No one wanted them in the first place. Replace all the female flight attendants with good-looking strippers! What the hell, they don't even serve food anymore, so what's the loss? The strippers would at least triple the alcohol sales and get a 'party atmosphere' going in the cabin. And, of course, every businessman in this country would start flying again, hoping to see naked women. Because of the tips, female flight attendants wouldn't need a salary, thus saving even more money. I suspect tips would be so good that we could charge the women for working the plane and have them kick back 20% of the tips, including lap dances and 'special services.' Muslims would be afraid to get on the planes for fear of seeing naked women. Hijackings would come to a screeching halt, and the airline industry would see record revenues. This is definitely a win-win situation if we handle it right -- a golden opportunity to turn a liability into an asset. Why didn't Bush think of this? Why do I still have to do everything myself? Sincerely, Bill Clinton

Gents can someone please advise me - As far as I can tell from TIS the Clutch master cylinder is a separate item from the brake MC - albeit that they share a common fluid resovoir. I looked on TIS and it says to remove the clutch MC you need to disconnect the HCB valve ( I think this is the ABS thingy) - but as it appears that you can remove the MC phsically without touching the brakes and of course you can clamp off the pip from the fluid resovoir to the MC it seems that I should be able to remove the MC without touching the brakes - Does this seem feasible? or am I just trying to ignore the inevitable? Any ideas or advice gratefully accepted. NB this is really a last ditch attempt before accepting that I may have to take out the gearbox!!