GSMGuy

Have a look at this thread.. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...wtopic=4327&hl= Mike

Std fit are Xenons... Mine however has Bi-Xenons :rolleyes: :D :D It's like having the road floodlit form above!! Mike

Righty... Valve picked up this morning - was a factory order, so I finished work early and sped home in my van to fit it!!! This is what it looks like... http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/3593/dsc006047ru.jpg It has 3 pipe connectors, labelled VAC, OUT and ATM, which I presume are a supply of vacuum (VAC) a vacuum output to the actuator on the turbo to control the vanes (OUT) and an input for fresh air when no vacuum is required (ATM) which is connected to what looks like a mini fuel filter just behind the airbox, but is in fact a mini air filter... To fit it, you have to remove this plate, which is directly behind the engine, after removing the plastic cover.. http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/9868/dsc006023mm.jpg Here it is in situ, it's the one on the left (drivers side) in this pic http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/1844/dsc006003sf.jpg Close up... http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/5281/dsc006014kk.jpg It's secured with 2 10mm nuts - just loosen the left one (hidden) and remove the right one, which you can get your fingers too - then it will just slide to the right and off it's rubber isolated mounts (presumably so you don't hear it clicking) Anyway, it took me 15 mins or so to swap it - plugged in the lappy and cleared the code before going for a blast.... The result???? Still the bloody same! :rolleyes: I am sooo glad I didn't pay ford an extra

Righty... Valve picked up this morning - was a factory order, so I finished work early and sped home in my van to fit it!!! This is what it looks like... http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/3593/dsc006047ru.jpg It has 3 pipe connectors, labelled VAC, OUT and ATM, which I presume are a supply of vacuum (VAC) a vacuum output to the actuator on the turbo to control the vanes (OUT) and an input for fresh air when no vacuum is required (ATM) which is connected to what looks like a mini fuel filter just behind the airbox, but is in fact a mini air filter... To fit it, you have to remove this plate, which is directly behind the engine, after removing the plastic cover.. http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/9868/dsc006023mm.jpg Here it is in situ, it's the one on the left (drivers side) in this pic http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/5281/dsc006014kk.jpg Close up... http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/1844/dsc006003sf.jpg

?? Mike

I swear by Speedbuster tuning boxes - they aren't cheap, but not had a single prob on 6 different cars, and my gal is putting out around 140 now... Not bad for a 115 Auto! Mike

Interesting snippet from tdiclub... In FAQ's on intermittent loss of power no turbo boost.. - Turbo control system not operating properly. Clogged, leaking, disconnected, or improperly connected hoses that are involved with controlling the turbo boost pressure will create havoc. Check condition and routing, and replace if necessary. - Turbo VNT mechanism sticking. This only applies to vehicles with a VNT-15 turbocharger ... most A4-chassis models including all A4-chassis models sold in North America, and all 110hp models (A3 or A4 chassis) sold elsewhere. (DON'T READ THIS if your car has a GT15 or K03 turbocharger because they operate in a COMPLETELY different manner.) Locate the diaphragm housing which operates the VNT mechanism (has a single hose going to it, extreme rear of engine compartment, buried down near the bottom right rear of the engine, hose connection faces STRAIGHT DOWN). Locate (by feel with a finger) the linkage rod which points straight up out the center of that diaphragm housing. While feeling this rod, have someone start the engine, and note whether the linkage rod moves - it should. Upon stopping the engine, the linkage rod should move back after a few seconds. If the linkage rod does not operate as described, get a vacuum tester (any auto parts store) and apply vacuum to the VNT diaphragm to see if you can get it to move. If it's seized up, there's your problem. NOTE: To prevent this from happening, DON'T BABY THE VEHICLE when you are driving it, and consider recalibrating the EGR system to reduce the amount of soot build-up in the exhaust. - Turbo wastegate mechanism sticking. This only applies for those with a GT15 or K03 turbo. If you have a later model, you have a VNT mechanism rather than a wastegate, so see above. The wastegate opens under pressure rather than vacuum. Using a pressure gauge which reads to 30 psi, verify that when you floor it at 2500 rpm, the turbo boost pressure rises to a peak and then drops to about 0.8 - 0.9 bar (12 - 14 psi). Sometimes the wastegate diaphragm gets clogged up with oil from the crankcase ventilation system, and some owners have had success by replacing the red and blue hoses with new clean hoses and cleaning gunk out of the diaphragm housing as best as possible. You're on your own for doing this procedure. To prevent it from ever happening, arrange for the crankcase fumes to not get into the engine air intake ... - Turbo boost control solenoid valve problems - this is also known as the N75 valve. If you have VAG-COM, and a trouble code of "intake manifold pressure control" is being set, and the problem is NOT a sticky VNT mechanism (see above), the N75 valve may be sticking, clogged with debris, or faulty. It can be removed from the vehicle and the paths through the valve checked by blowing through the various connections with the valve first de-energized, and then energized with 12 volts. Alternatively, obtain a vacuum gauge and "T" it into the hose that goes from the N75 valve to the VNT vacuum diaphragm, and confirm that the vacuum varies under different load conditions while driving. If found to be faulty, some have had success by blowing solvent through the valve to remove any deposits, but replacement with a new one may be the best option. Mike

Right, mine has been to Ford today for "diagnosis" was quoted

He's right - almost lol - All PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) ones are Cat 2.. Mike

Had all the gas gone? Maybe you have a leak that needed fixing first?? Mike

Matt, there is an app available for free (if you know where to look) or can be bought on Ebay - that will give you the codes for a whole host of makes and models of radio.. Mike

Seatkid - any idea where these are situated?? Mike

This problem is definately not the MAF - It is something to do with the boost control... Am working my way through the TIS looking.. Mike

Markae - out PD 115's don't have a wastegate... Mike

You sure you got the right code? Post the code and your serial no... Mike

This has been covered before - apparently there is no requirement for an auto levelling feature on aftermarket kits, only those fitted at the time of manufacture, as they have to comply with OEM regs.. My car passed the MOT with flying colours, and the tester even did the alignment for me free of charge on the beam tester - which made a hell of a difference to the spread.. Mike

GA1973, they are available for H4 applications (Mk1 Gal) for the same price with a HID dip/halogen main beam - or for

Hi - I have some kits in at

Take the whole mechanism out, including the motor - it's only held on by three bols after you remove the undertray (three bolts again) Then you can easily strip and grease it - A warning though - make sure you support the mounting luggs, as they are prone to snapping! Mike

Also, see THIS thread! Mike

DaveM, see my post in THIS thread... Bet yours is a 115pd... Mike

Ivor - what colour?? Mike

Golfmadman - Stop... I have been getting the same fault with mine for the last week or so, and it ISN'T the MAF! If the MAF is faulty, it will generate a code that can be picked up via VAG-COM, my error code however is: VAG-COM Version: Release 504.1-UD Control Module Part Number: 038 906 019 FA Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC G001AG 1457 Software Coding: 00001 Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation P1557 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Symtoms are: when in 4th or 5th (auto) Pulls like a train to 4000 in 4th, and 3000 in 5th, then the turbo just seems to "switch off" Stopping and restarting cures it again until the next time... Anyone got any ideas about the faultcode and what it is? I seem to remember that the boost on the 115pd is controlled by moving the angle of vanes in the body of the turbo?? Mike

Cheers, this worked a treat - been looking for it for ages... Don't suppose you know the code for activating auto locking when you drive off?? Mike Edit... Sorry, only just read the new posts.. lol Mike

I have had 3 of these - various brands, and burnt them all out on either crank bolts or wheelnuts... My trusty Snap-On 36" breaker bar however has outdone them all...... Mike